View Full Version : Throw me some Ideas!
Tempero
03-21-2004, 10:52 PM
Hey guys! After I sell my little rice car I should have somewhere around 2300$ to drop into my truck and I wanted to come to ya all first before I throw the money away. Please list some external/internal (or performance for that matter) mods I should do to my all stock White 01 Chevy Norm Cab Stepside Silverado. Keeping the price limit in mind of course. What things will make my truck noticeably different and give it that customized look? I know the most obvious is the wheels which are going to take a big chunk out of that 2300 but list some other things disregarding the wheels for now.
Tempero
03-21-2004, 10:59 PM
Just got a heatgun from a friend. That shall be done this week.
Black_Chrome
03-21-2004, 11:10 PM
A grill is cheap 100-200 dollars, and give a none stock appearence to the front end. A roll pan is also cheap and will trick out your rear, and also a drop in height will also give it a custom look without wheels, and drop is also cheap. you could afford this with 2300 and have over 1000 dollars left over, you could get a cowl or ram induction hood, and save towards you RimZ :bowtie:
cant go wrong with cadillac tails that are on upside down :crazy:
Tucks20s
03-21-2004, 11:37 PM
I get almost everything I have on my truck off Ebay so be sure to check them.
4/6 or 5/7 Drop
Billet Grille
Tahoe Grille Shell
Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white)
Rollpan
Clear turn signals
smoothed and painted bumper cap
escalade handles
shaved tailgate handle and holes
euro tails
You can drive on factory size tires with a 4/6, but I think ya have to go with a smaller tire a 5/7.
Tempero
03-22-2004, 03:59 PM
way2hi, all those ideas surely arnt within price range. What is a Tahoe Grill Shell?
Claye
03-22-2004, 04:33 PM
It's all chrome where a factory silvy one has the black plastic. Most chevy owners will put the tahoe shell in or get theirs painted to match.
Claye
03-22-2004, 04:35 PM
How low are you wanting to go?
Steve
03-22-2004, 04:46 PM
way2hi, all those ideas surely arnt within price range. What is a Tahoe Grill Shell?
Tahoe Grill shell is all chrome and looks alot cleaner than the standard silverado grill with textured black around it.
As way2hi mentioned:
4/6 or 5/7 Drop - ~600 with shocks + ~300 to install
Billet Grille ~ 100
Tahoe Grille Shell ~ 200 (looks better than standard with billet)
Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white)
Rollpan ~ 250 painted
Clear turn signals ~30 off ebay
smoothed and painted bumper cap - no clue on pricing...probably 200-300 with paint.
escalade handles ~70 bucks
shaved tailgate handle and holes ~ 300
euro tails ~ yuck
Looks like you are coming in at $2150, thats under your 2300 budget with all of this :rocking: not to mention your truck would really stand out, even with stock wheels :D
Claye
03-22-2004, 05:19 PM
Tahoe Grill shell is all chrome and looks alot cleaner than the standard silverado grill with textured black around it.
As way2hi mentioned:
4/6 or 5/7 Drop - ~600 with shocks + ~300 to install
Billet Grille ~ 100
Tahoe Grille Shell ~ 200 (looks better than standard with billet)
Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white)
Rollpan ~ 250 painted
Clear turn signals ~30 off ebay
smoothed and painted bumper cap - no clue on pricing...probably 200-300 with paint.
escalade handles ~70 bucks
shaved tailgate handle and holes ~ 300
euro tails ~ yuck
Looks like you are coming in at $2150, thats under your 2300 budget with all of this :rocking: not to mention your truck would really stand out, even with stock wheels :D
Werd! That sounds about right. I guess you better get to ordering a lot of shit! Just imagine it's Christmas!
Tucks20s
03-22-2004, 06:20 PM
Prices where I live are alot cheaper.
4/6 or 5/7 Drop-http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33586&item=2468102138 - $200 to install
Billet Grille http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6763&item=2468814522 $62
Tahoe Grille Shell
Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white $10)
Rollpan $175 for sir mikes, $75 paint
Clear/Euro turn signals http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33717&item=2467488616
smoothed and painted bumper cap- you could get a Tahoe one they're already smoothed out. $200 smoothed & painted or $75 for a Tahoe one painted
escalade handles round $50
shaved tailgate handle and holes $125 also need handle flip kit, $40
euro tails-Well whatever ya prefer I liked my TYC's, but they're about the only euros I like.
Price is also based on quality.
Steve
03-22-2004, 06:39 PM
Prices where I live are alot cheaper.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33586&item=2468102138 - $200 to install
That kit doesn't say what brand it is? :think: The DJM 4/6 is the same price as well so i'd go with something i know about, for all you know that could be a shAIM kit unless i'm missing something at it is belltech?
I was also quoting my prices at the "higher end" of the spectrum to give him a good idea of a "worst case scenario" as i know he can come out much cheaper :D
Tucks20s
03-22-2004, 06:46 PM
I was also quoting my prices at the "higher end" of the spectrum to give him a good idea of a "worst case scenario" as i know he can come out much cheaper
I gotcha That's just the prices I paid to have my stuff shaved and painted when I had my truck white still, not the best work, but at the time I didn't really mind.
Autobahn Wholesale is selling it. I didn't think they sold anything aim, but I looked on their site and they have some stuff by Chassis Tech. I liked my 4/6 DJM kit when I had it. Thought it rode good. All I had was the 4" control arm, 1 leaf taken out of the back, 2" shackle, C-notch, and shocks.
Tempero
03-22-2004, 07:16 PM
What does it take to install the C-notch? And is that something I can do myself or do I have to take it to a body shop?
Tempero
03-22-2004, 07:17 PM
Oh, whats a good place to get a cheap hardcover for the back. By cheap I dont mean cheaply made just affordable.
Steve
03-22-2004, 07:22 PM
What does it take to install the C-notch? And is that something I can do myself or do I have to take it to a body shop?
I did mine myself. I etched the notch onto a piece of cardboard and cut it out, traced it onto the frame and cut it out with an angle grinder. then i fit the notch up and held it in place with some clamps and drilled the holes and secured it. I did one hole at a time as well as doing the bolts and nuts before moving to the next so the C-notch couldn't move around on me.
Its very intimidating, but also easy when you get down to it and do it :)
As for tonneau covers, they are all pretty expensive, gaylords and snugtops are the only ones i like and they typically run 700+
Tucks20s
03-22-2004, 07:41 PM
A c-notch is pretty easy to install if ya have a grinder, torch, or plasma cutter. You'll also need a drill to drill the holes to bolt it in place. You could also just weld it on. It's harder to lower it with spindles than it is with arms. With arms all you have to do is unbolt the lower control arm and seperate the balljoint from the spindle then bolt the new one back up. A flip kit doesn't take a highschool ed. to install either.
You can get one from Checkmate for $350. It's fiberglass, but not gel coated. The seals are also shitty. It's cheap, but still good quality for their price. If I had my choice I'd go with the one that I asked about in the GP forum.
bcubed
03-22-2004, 08:06 PM
Oh, whats a good place to get a cheap hardcover for the back. By cheap I dont mean cheaply made just affordable.
Checkmate FX, $349.00 in white or black fiberglass.
http://www.checkerpro.com/checkmate_fx.html
http://www.checkerpro.com/images/fxclosednbg.jpg
chevyman992002
03-22-2004, 08:11 PM
i just got my checkmate cover on and i'm very happy with it. but don't get it unless you plan on shaving your stake pockets.
Tempero
03-22-2004, 10:08 PM
Stake pockets? Ahhh the lingo is killing me ;)
Tempero
03-22-2004, 10:13 PM
Whats the lowest drop I could get without needing the c-section but still looks good?
bcubed
03-22-2004, 10:20 PM
i just got my checkmate cover on and i'm very happy with it. but don't get it unless you plan on shaving your stake pockets.
I bought the covers they sell, sort of cheesy but they worked ok .. I have bed rails right now, and might paint them and the cover later. One day, the stake pockets will be shaved.
bcubed
03-22-2004, 10:21 PM
Whats the lowest drop I could get without needing the c-section but still looks good?
Most people say 3/5 ... but you will definately bottom out at times.
Tempero
03-22-2004, 10:30 PM
What about 2/2 and some bigger wheels?
Tucks20s
03-23-2004, 04:15 PM
no if you're gonna do a 2/2 leave the suspension stock. If I were you I'd put in a C-notch. If you're afraid of devaluing the truck for when you go to sell it or trade it in then just put it back to factory height with the factory wheels and tires. Most people won't see the notch. With the notch the frame is still just as strong. I'd go 2/4 if you're not going to cut the frame, but I still say a 4/6 to look good. I hate trucks with small drops and 22" wheels or bigger, 99% of the time the look shitty to me. Just my opinion though. Stake Pockets are the holes in your bedrails. Since yours is a stepside all you'd have to do is have a body shop fiberglass them up and smooth the rails out, ofcourse that's easier said than done.
Claye
03-23-2004, 04:29 PM
A c-notch is pretty easy to install if ya have a grinder, torch, or plasma cutter. You'll also need a drill to drill the holes to bolt it in place. You could also just weld it on. It's harder to lower it with spindles than it is with arms. With arms all you have to do is unbolt the lower control arm and seperate the balljoint from the spindle then bolt the new one back up. A flip kit doesn't take a highschool ed. to install either.
You can get one from Checkmate for $350. It's fiberglass, but not gel coated. The seals are also shitty. It's cheap, but still good quality for their price. If I had my choice I'd go with the one that I asked about in the GP forum.
Werd I'm notching mine this weekend. I'm going to drop the rear to a 7. And I think I'm going to just weld mine in too. I don't want to drill those dam holes!! Cause mine isn't level at all. It also came up just a tad whenever I put the rollpan on and took the bumper, hitch, and spare tire off. I seen reg cab truck today with a 4/8 and it was perfectly level, so a 3/7 should be too. I gotta have something semi-low until I get bags!!! I would go 4 in the front but I will scrub with my tires. I might later on if I need some tires.
Claye
03-23-2004, 04:39 PM
no if you're gonna do a 2/2 leave the suspension stock. If I were you I'd put in a C-notch. If you're afraid of devaluing the truck for when you go to sell it or trade it in then just put it back to factory height with the factory wheels and tires. Most people won't see the notch. With the notch the frame is still just as strong. I'd go 2/4 if you're not going to cut the frame, but I still say a 4/6 to look good. I hate trucks with small drops and 22" wheels or bigger, 99% of the time the look shitty to me. Just my opinion though. Stake Pockets are the holes in your bedrails. Since yours is a stepside all you'd have to do is have a body shop fiberglass them up and smooth the rails out, ofcourse that's easier said than done.
Werd again! Dude a 2/2 is a joke. way2hi is right. If your going to do that you may as well leave it stock. If you're gonna lower your truck go ahead and drop the right way. I started out with a 3/5 on mine and didn't notch the frame. It will bottom out. Not that bad but it does. You could go with a 3/5 or 3/4 also but if your going with a 3/5 I would go ahead and notch the frame. It'll ride so much better! But even if you go with that in about a week it won't be low to you anymore. That's what happened to me. I'm dropping mine to a 3/7 for until I can get it bagged. I'd go with a 4/6 like way2hi suggested. Trust us!
Tempero
03-23-2004, 06:16 PM
Fine, ill just leave the hieght stock for now. The hardcover for the back is going to eat up a lot of my money. I guess I will just wait and save up till I can do it all right.
Chris99GMC
03-25-2004, 06:32 PM
if your thinking of staying stock for awhile, get some djm or belltech 2" drop shackles for the rear. i got mine for 40 bucks out the door
It should level out the stock "raked" look, and then you can use them later on to level whatever drop you get.
As far as the C-notch goes, don't be a puss... cut the frame(just don't cut where you don't want to) and then bolt the notch in...... your frame will be stronger than it was stock if you do it right.
dreamrr
03-25-2004, 06:41 PM
I recommend a lift kit! :head:
Tempero
03-26-2004, 07:46 PM
This entire time I actually have had no idea what we were talking about. I thought a C-Notch was the raised part i see in most lowered truck beds which I now learn is called a step notch. (Correct me if im wrong) So a C-Notch is a notch that is cut into the frame which is reinforced by a brace correct? So then explain to me what exactly a step notch is. From what im reading this seems more and more possible. I may be looking into a 4/6 drop and just keep my factory wheels for now. Help please lol. I know im not the smartest on this stuff so please go easy on me.
Claye
03-26-2004, 08:46 PM
This entire time I actually have had no idea what we were talking about. I thought a C-Notch was the raised part i see in most lowered truck beds which I now learn is called a step notch. (Correct me if im wrong) So a C-Notch is a notch that is cut into the frame which is reinforced by a brace correct? So then explain to me what exactly a step notch is. From what im reading this seems more and more possible. I may be looking into a 4/6 drop and just keep my factory wheels for now. Help please lol. I know im not the smartest on this stuff so please go easy on me.
You wouldn't need a step notch for a 4/6. Those are just bigger notches that are used if you're going to bag it. People will usually also cut the bed also when using those. All you need is a reg c-notch. It's just a small notch cut into frame then reinforced just like you said with a brace that is usually bolted on or it can be welded on. Either will work.
Tempero
03-26-2004, 08:48 PM
Very cool. Very cool indeed.
Tempero
03-27-2004, 01:55 PM
Will this kit do what I wanna do? And what else will I need to pick up to complete it? Click (http://www.stylinconcepts.com/part.cfm?PartID=17765&PartFamilyID=775&SubCategoryID=206&CategoryID=30&lc=pfpartt)
Steve
03-27-2004, 02:21 PM
Will this kit do what I wanna do? And what else will I need to pick up to complete it? Click (http://www.stylinconcepts.com/part.cfm?PartID=17765&PartFamilyID=775&SubCategoryID=206&CategoryID=30&lc=pfpartt)
I have that kit on my truck right now and i have no complaints. I'd recommend it to anybody! :bowtie:
Tempero
03-27-2004, 03:37 PM
Awsome. Anything else im going to need? shocks etc. (recommend plz)
Tempero
03-27-2004, 05:39 PM
These (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DOE%2D4231G) should be good right? Anything else?
Tucks20s
03-27-2004, 06:47 PM
That's the front end setup I had on my truck when it was static and although it was on there before I bought the truck I know it's easy to install because I've taken apart my front end a few times. Also rode real well.
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