Important!: Is your 4L60E fucked/fucking up? Help within

[Hit Man X]

This will be of some help:



1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: low/reverse clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sun shell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the check ball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valve body), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product.

2. No 3rd or 4th gear: 3-4/direct clutches are worn out. Remove & Replace.

3. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal; sun shell is fractured. R&R. Try not to run or drive or further damage could result.

4. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping. Servo seals may be damaged (can be fixed without removing trans. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. R&R.

5. Trans shifts into gear harshly, 3rd gear starts, manual 2nd available but no 1st, no 4th, and no TCC lockup: No power to transmission, or trans is in limp-home mode. Check wiring, and make sure transmission electrical connector is plugged in. Easy fix.

6. No 1st or 4th available: shift A solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan.

7. No 2nd or 3rd available: shift B solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan.

8. No TCC lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed (easy fix in the pan), TCC clutch worn out (must remove trans and replace TC).

9. TCC always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage (easy fix in pan), or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

10. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Easy fix in the pan.

11. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Can be safely driven in D. R&R.

12. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Leaking boost valve; clogged EPC filter screen, leaky seals. Transgo kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R.

13. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

14. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Easy fix in pan.

15. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: snapped output shaft. R&R.

16. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R.

17. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.

18. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: VSS failure. Easy fix on rear of transmission.

19. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. Swap in a known-good PCM, check wiring, check other sensors.

20. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.

[08RCSB]

Stizzicky.

[geareater]

seriously? my shitty shift from 1st-2nd could be a quick fix, either #10 or #12? throw in a corvette servo and I'm good to go. if that was so, it'd be amazing.

sticky x2

[BostonFan]

great post Doc!

[08Chevy]

Nice doc. Sticky for sure.

[Denaliano]

Ethnically Diverse Applause!

[bigdave0924]

I know I don't post much on here but I am having trouble with issue number one. I have an 03 tahoe and reverse seems like its binding up. If I back in a parking spot when the truck is warm it's not that bad, but on the other hand when it's cold out and I have to back out of a parking spot sometimes it feels like the damn drive shaft is in such a bind something going to break. Any ideas guys?

[Trevor]

Sticky!

[2ToNE04]

NICE INFORMATION


sticky.... my 2 gear is slipping

[chevy_man]

Hmm. Any advice for intermittent TC lockup? Just locks/unlocks constantly, but only when warm. Cold it's fine.
I've been assuming it's the TC and waiting for it to burn up before I replace it, but it won't fail and it's been doing it for over a year now.

[2ToNE04]

Originally Posted by chevy_man

Hmm. Any advice for intermittent TC lockup? Just locks/unlocks constantly, but only when warm. Cold it's fine.
I've been assuming it's the TC and waiting for it to burn up before I replace it, but it won't fail and it's been doing it for over a year now.

Mine is doing that also.

Hopefully when i get my bb tune justin can tune the tc to be 100% open or closed.

[Covah]

THIS is GMFS at its best. Thank you.

[chevy_man]

Originally Posted by 2ToNE04

Mine is doing that also.

Hopefully when i get my bb tune justin can tune the tc to be 100% open or closed.

IIRC he can tune yours, as yours is factory tuned to progressively engage for smoother operation.
In my Grand Prix it drives me fuckin nuts to watch the rpms stay the same and my speed goes up as it slowly locks up. Just lock it up and be done with it IMO.

However, mind should already just go to 100% locked with no in-between.

Also, mine has the diesel check valve that eliminates the electronics so I know mine isn't a computer issue. I can unplug the wiring harness from the trans and my TC still locks....or tries to.

[2ToNE04]

My transmission went out due to insufficient oil:

Before it went out, it would shift really soft you would hardly feel it shift, TC would keep unlocking and locking up, it would surge on curves, surging going up-hill, and when you would get on it would hit red line before it got a hold of the next shift.

Also if you have a Transmission temperature gauge, your needle should usually be sitting at 160 not towing. If you see it climb check your Oil.



-Miguel