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Spring and shocks don't have anything to do with the clunk itself, may be a cause for the yoke wearing in the first place though. the clunk is because the material of the yoke is much softer then the material of the splines on the tailshaft. the springs and/or shocks may have caused wrapping putting extra torque on the yoke, causing the splines to wear to a larger size, therefore the having slack between the yoke and tailshaft spline, causing a clunk when motion begins. when you come to a stop the yoke slips in one direction then when you take off it slips in the other direction at an accelerated rate and clunks. Yes, stiff shocks will reduce squat and inward motion of the yoke. But if you really think about it, when the yoke is pushed into the tailshaft more, more of the splines are in contact with the tailshaft splines, which I think would mean more suface area to grip onto and less likely to clunk. All the grease does is fills the excess space between the yoke and tailshaft spines and cushion the impact of slippage. the clunk is still there, just cushioned to a point where you don't hear it.
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99 Sierra SLT ecsb, 5.3, 6000k low beam and fogs, cranked level on stock 245's
04 Grand Prix GTP, supercharged 3.8, bone stock. (the wifes ride)
Future plans:
99 Sierra ecsb, Fix the bodywork and make the truck as usable as possible, maybe a little lift and bigger tires.
What do you think about drilling a hole and putting a grease fitting on the rusty part of the yoke near the base? The part where it slides in and out. Do you think it would vibrate or make it weaker?
no..... the splines are so tight it would never make it to all of them. The grease would start to oze out the back of the yoke hole before it would ever begin to make it in the splines. My two pice drive shaft has a zerx fitting from the factory and I tried it. It did not work and just left a bigger mess to clean inside of the yoke. The only way I think it would work is if the diameter was larger only around the zerx fitting, thus allowing the grease to work all around the output shaft then back into the splines. I think that the zerx fitting would throw the shaft out of balance too.
well supposedly the new shaft they have available don't last and costs like 200 bucks or so. not sure on the price, just reading old posts and what not. all i know it's fucking annoying
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truckless on the search for another lifted obs
well supposedly the new shaft they have available don't last and costs like 200 bucks or so. not sure on the price, just reading old posts and what not. all i know it's fucking annoying
agree'd, when I did the nickel plated slipyoke on my obs tahoe it cost like $500 w/labor, I'm not sure how much the yoke it self was but it definately fixed it. It never came back as long as I had it. I've it come back on other's but mine was fine. I'm curious to see if mine changes when I lower the back to the truck.
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99 Sierra SLT ecsb, 5.3, 6000k low beam and fogs, cranked level on stock 245's
04 Grand Prix GTP, supercharged 3.8, bone stock. (the wifes ride)
Future plans:
99 Sierra ecsb, Fix the bodywork and make the truck as usable as possible, maybe a little lift and bigger tires.
Mine was diagnosed with this today. My shop is probably reading this thread. Hi RON. Im going to try the updated slip yoke in a month or two. For now they greased the crap out of it and hopfully it wont clunk again for awhile. The rubber ball idea doesnt sound too bad. Im just wondering what happens if it breaks apart. Also, would a new shorter driveline fix this? How about an add a leaf to lessen the squat? Im just throwing out ideas. At this point the noise drives me crazy. My 91 Mazda 626 with 270k miles makes less noise.
Looking to buy a window control amp from a gentlemen here and we wanted to know how we can test if the amp is still working. He doesnt have the car with him anymore. Is there a gauge that he can use? Does anyone know of an easy way to test its voltage?
Looking to buy a window control amp from a gentlemen here and we wanted to know how we can test if the amp is still working. He doesnt have the car with him anymore. Is there a gauge that he can use? Does anyone know of an easy way to test its voltage?
Thanks
........What?
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99 Sierra SLT ecsb, 5.3, 6000k low beam and fogs, cranked level on stock 245's
04 Grand Prix GTP, supercharged 3.8, bone stock. (the wifes ride)
Future plans:
99 Sierra ecsb, Fix the bodywork and make the truck as usable as possible, maybe a little lift and bigger tires.
The ball pushes the male spline back and supposedly keeps it from binding. I used fifth wheel grease in my drive shaft and steering shaft an haven't heard a pop in 110000 miles. (220000 miles and only replaced the trans and waterpump)
Yesterday I greased the yoke up real good and the sound is gone. I didn't try the bouncy ball, i figure if the sound comes back soon Ill try the ball. The splines were pretty dry so I greased it up real good and that solved the problem. Its a real easy to fix, lets see how long it lasts though.
Re: How to fix slip yoke clunk...FOREVER?
on the search for another lifted obs
agree'd, when I did the nickel plated slipyoke on my obs tahoe it cost like $500 w/labor, I'm not sure how much the yoke it self was but it definately fixed it. It never came back as long as I had it. I've it come back on other's but mine was fine. I'm curious to see if mine changes when I lower the back to the truck.
Hi RON. 
........What?
