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05 Burb

100K views 1K replies 70 participants last post by  ThatdamnAWDtahoe 
#1 ·
Its a work in progress but I'm glad I joined this forum, the general style of clean/subtle is really cool and not something you see in a lot of groups. I already took a members suggestions for the direction on this sub.

It has a 2.5 level, 2" rear spacer, auto ride delete with ranchos front and rear, Z71 Silverado rear springs, de-badged and removed molding/steps/flares (it's an LT). Today I added the clear corners, 1.5" wheel spacers, and sprayed undercoating in the wheel wells/frame. The entire front end was just rebuilt but I changed the crappy CA/ball joints for Moog, on the uppers I used the offset ones for better camber correction.

Future plans are some polished 17x9s (on a budget so something like Pro Comp) and 33x12.50's with more aggressive tread. I'm also adding a 1.5 Zone BL and de-cranking about a half inch. That will be in a week or so, tires not until spring.
 
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#527 ·
Good to see it coming together and you figuring out what should work! :thumbsup:

So, what's that rear setup? Did you swap to the taller 2" coil spacer, Z71 springs, and longer RCX Kit shocks?!?
 
#528 ·
Nothing on the rear yet. It already has the z71 springs but I want to see where I end up on the front end before messing with it. I don't think the kit shocks will work, I need to measure them. They are for Silverado and although the mounts are the same I'm unsure on length. Interestingly the SUV kit uses the stock shocks with extended mounts. No idea why.
 
#529 ·
Gotcha!

What is the actual front X-member drop amount on the NBS RCX 4-6" Kit?!? Amount diff dropped and difference in knuckle height?!? OBS ones were called 4-6". But, front X-member measure 5.25" hole to hole. Also, it was a full drop kit vs the NBS being a knuckle kit.
 
#532 ·
Swapped out coilovers. Too much squat but rear will be coming up a little. Rides awesome, better than the Eibach springs. Hardly any preload, just enough to keep tension. I added the extended upper mount so they are as long as the DS701 with a 14" 750lb spring. Not too stiff at all. I plan on a bigger coil spacer, longer shocks or extensions, and sway bar extensions for the rear. The UCAs are almost dead flat and the CVs are much better. I figure it's about 5" of lift. Yes I know the sway bar isn't hooked up I ran out of energy. 3.5 hours in pouring rain to swap out the shocks.
 
#533 ·
How much actual lift do you have? I want to do coilovers in my truck with the McG, i'm thinking DS601's will fit the bill.
 
#534 ·
I'm thinking around 5 to 5.5 just looking at the cv angles compared to a 6" 'cranked' torsion bar RC lift. I'm thinking you would need the 901 with a 16" spring, isn't that an 8" lift on your truck? The DS701 is perfect for a 6" lift.
 
#540 ·
Is it just the pic or are you positive cambered in the front?
 
#541 · (Edited)
Little positive. I set the toe last night but letting the springs settle a few days before I mess with camber. It's already pulled in quite a bit just driving to work this morning. When I set it down the first time it was horrible.

The lift sucked the tires back in too, the front is about 1/4" narrower than the rear and I have 1.5" spacers out back.

Edit: pulled them in more than with the shorter shocks. I had 2" spacers on them before the lift to make them even so technically they were .5" narrower in the front, now .25" narrower with no spacer. So it pushed them out quite a bit.
 
#542 ·
Truck looks great!

For guys considering the swap, I would go with the Vikings instead of the QA1s from a performance and cost stand point. After you upgrade the bearings on the qa1s (mandatory) you are going to be at the same price as the vikings which are double adjustable for the price of the single adjustable qa1s. I am a dealer for Viking and can get you set up at the same time you want brackets. I am swapping my qa1s over to vikings as soon as I get a chance.
 
#545 · (Edited)
Sweet grocery getter. Don't see any lifted burbans around here. Coilovers are somethin I'd like to get but I've always been stuck on the looks of hoops/resis. Considerin I don't drive that truck much it's not a big deal I guess. Definitely would drive
 
#551 ·
Ordered some taller coil spacers for the rear. Was going to get taller springs but I'm happy with these Z71 coils. I have a fresh set I'm swapping in when I switch spacers. Ordered one set on Amazon a few years ago and they sent me 2. So plans are:

New z71 coils
3" Allstar Performance fabricated steel spacer
Jeep JK 3" extended sway bar links. 11.5" center to center. Got this idea from 11mpg's Burb
Try the kit shocks. They are the right length but not sure how they will work with the heavier Burb rear.
Or keep the Ranchos for now. They are 3" lift length so don't really need extenders.
Make new bracket for brake lines. There's plenty of play for the small amount of lift I'm adding but planning for a little travel.

I jacked the rear up 1.5" and I think that will look just about right. Hopefully the geometry is still good/doesn't pull the axle forward too much, we'll see.
 
#553 ·
I didn't plan on running the lift this high but with it "decranked" I had too much positive camber. Running it a little higher pulled the UCA in a little. I'm still messing with it, still need to fine tune. I think it will look better with bigger tires but I can live with it. Wife not impressed with the height at all.
 
#554 ·
Before/after. 10 months. I've done lift,coilovers, wheels/tires, pitman,steering gear box, idler, tie rods, body lift, airaid, vette servo, tails, corners, about 10 rounds of color matching, and other shit I'm sure I forgot about. Future plans are clean, maintain, detail, bigger rubber, 4.56's, tune. I'd eventually like to swap out the Borg Warner t case and add some bolt ons but I'm taking a break.
 
#557 ·
Burb looks awesome man. What's the fenders at? Seems like it sits up pretty good, maybe taller than it actually is. 4.88s and 35s was fun, I loved it anyways. Another question, what steering gear box did you buy and where from? Did you replace it yourself?
 
#559 ·
I'll get some measurements. I hav been measuring tire to fender in the front to get it level (side to side) and it's at 15.5" so add another 32 for the tire, should be around 47.5" give or take. Honestly it doesn't look as tall in person and looks more 'level'/proportional.

I bought a re-man POS gearbox from Advance, whatever their store brand is. I didn't know any better. It worked fine though, no issues at almost a year. I installed it myself. I know it won't last as long as the oem box did but it was cheap.
 
#558 ·
Hope someone can chime in here, I'm stumped...

When I let off the throttle at any speed above 30mph or so I get a noise that kind of sounds like a metal on metal vibration- tapping the gas makes it go away. The higher the speed/harder decal it is louder. The timing makes me think it is driveshaft/u joint related. Re-torqued everything this evening and checked the u-joint at the differential but didn't see anything odd/no contact. Thought it might be exhaust but it's not hitting anywhere. Any ideas?

I thought maybe I had a u joint on its last legs and taking shit apart/what not just made it start chattering and it could be coincididence but it started immediately after lifting it.
 
#562 ·
You drove it with the front lifted with the RCX and the rear still at the "leveled setup"... Right?!? No noise then? Only started now since raising the rear up...?

My first thoughts go to new driveshaft angle related..... Or, like you said, exhaust touching/rattle...? Heat shield?
 
#563 ·
No it did it with the lower setting too. In fact that's what I thought was doing it and hoped it would stop when I set the front up.

I did pull the heat shield when I did the vette servo. Maybe it's loose. I didn't think to wiggle the driveshaft at the rear while I was under it to see if it has any play.
 
#566 ·
Just checked out the rear end-no play in the drive shaft at all and the angles look good. I'm thinking since the only thing I did driveshaft related during the install was disconnect the shaft at the differential I'll start there, maybe unhook it tomorrow and check. I marked it so I know it's "phased" correctly.
 
#568 ·
I think I solved the weird noise under deceleration. Replaced the driver side cv. I can hear a very faint chatter now instead of grinding. That may be the other cv or it was always there and I'm more sensitive to it since I've been riding around listening. I bought a pair of cv's but they gave me one that is too short. The shaft is longer but the boots are short and I had to stretch it so I'm returning it. I went with the Duralast Gold, we'll see how they hold up.
 
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