5.3 Oil Pump Help

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by Bustnuckle, Jan 3, 2018.

  1. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    hello GMFS peeps. I’m brand new and I’m happy to be a part of what seems like a very awesome group of people who love their GM trucks. I’m always on this site here and there looking for help when I gotta bust my knuckles on the Silverado. So I figured i would just join. Ok I’ll cut to the chase.

    2006 Silverado crew LT
    4x4 5.3L Auto trans
    4” lift on 35”s and a few mods.

    So I consider myself a competent garage mechanic. I’ve had 3 silverados, this being my fourth so obviously I love them. Anyway

    I’m replacing the oil pump in a couple saturdays and honestly it’s a bit outside my comfort zone but I ain’t no pus. I wanted to ask around to see if anyone had a minute to maybe give me some tips or tricks on the entire deal since a lot of things have to be removed just to get to the pump. I’m not worried about the Axels or front diff I can drop them no prob. I’m More concerned about oil pan realignment and crank balancer pulling and timing chain cover alignment. I got a sweet melling high pressure oil pump to install and I’ve got all the nessesary gaskets and the pickup tube o ring. The whole point of this procedure is to stop the famous lifter tick before it gets any worse since all of my silvers have had it (yay) and it’s minor right now. Thankyou all very much for letting me jump into this community and Thankyou for reading my long post. I just really need a little guidance. I’ll be doing this process with my Haynes manual and YouTube assistance.

    Thanks for the help

    Bustnuckle
    Chevy for life.
     
  2. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Welcome to the community, glad to have another member!

    First off, I’m no pro when it comes to working on Silverados but I’ve done my fair share of work to my 05. First Chevy in the family and I love it.

    Second, the job is seemingly simple, but as always, has A LOT of steps or things to do. I’ve done my oil pan 3 times and I can honestly say it’s pretty straight-forward. The bolts will roughly realign the pan but make sure you keep a gap ten-thousands of an inch or smaller between the back of the pan and the trans bell housing. Other than that, you should be golden with alignment.

    Third, that Haynes Manual and Youtube will go A LONG way in terms of getting an idea of what you’re up against. It’s nice to get someone else’s take of how to do something with a decent project like the oil pump. That manual is usually right on the money with the how-to’s so pay attention to the details.

    Overall though, I don’t see it being a huge problem to face. Air or electric tools will definitely help in speeding up the process, however, I don’t recommend using them to tighten bolts and such. Use only to loosen/remove. Make sure you keep up with all the torque specs and pay VERY close attention to when the manual differentiates between ft/lbs and inch/lbs (I learned the hard way).

    Like I said, I’m no pro working at the GM dealer or anything but I’ve done pretty much all the work to my truck. I absolutely love the LS platform and how reliable they are, they just want some TLC every now and then.

    I’m sure others will add to it. I’d give myself at least 3 days to do something like an oil pump, especially if it’s your first time so you can take it slow. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. Plus you’re more likely to catch a mistake before it happens lol.

    Anyway, I know this is long but I love ranting about something I can semi-relate to.

    You don’t have to take the oil pan off IIRC but I may be wrong, I can’t remember. The harmonic balancer might be a challenge but with the right tools it won’t be that bad. Getting it back on is even easier. I’d push the balancer until enough thread shows to start the bolt then use the impact to drive it on. Check the correct torque but don’t over tighten with the impact. Oh and don’t forget to let the RTV dry for at least 12 hours just to be sure. I usually do that last so I can let it sit overnight while it cures.

    Other than that, study the Haynes, watch some videos and read what advice the geniuses (other than me lol) give you!
     
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  3. Phildirt

    Phildirt n. fil-dert.

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    Hetz I use power tools to tighten everything then torque. Ain’t nobody got time for all that wratcheting. Milwaukee cordless impact is life mang
     
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  4. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    Hetzler Thankyou for your input and advice. It is much appreciated. I will be doing this next weekend. I get fridays and saturdays off so I’ll have 2 full days to do all the work. I’m going to do the loan a tool deal with o Reilly’s and get the actual harmonic balancer install/remover tool so I can do that right. The manual is calling for the oil pan to be removed.. I would prefer to leave it alone. It’s never had a leak and I’m pretty sure I have to remove the starter to get the pan off as well. So if I don’t have to remove it that’s great. We will see. I’m lucky I have a Nissan d21 I use for work everyday in case the Chevy ends up being more than a 2 day headache. I don’t use power tools ever. I’m old school and I like it that way. Hey on the RTV which one do you recommend. I have the gray “gasket maker” I’ve used several times on valve covers. It works good but should I get the red heavy duty for these applications? Thankyou hetzler!! Next weekend is going to be fun.
     
  5. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    No problem Bustnuckle, glad I was able to help! That’s a good move on the loan-a-tool for the balancer puller and at least you have a back up vehicle lol.

    As for the oil pan being removed, I wasn’t too sure but if the manual calls for it then it’s probably right. Now, I can tell you for sure you won’t have to remove the starter to pull the oil pan. I’ve done mine without taking it off, but if you see it’s giving you problems then by all means take it off. I think it’s just to help remove the plastic bell housing cover which you can shimmy out. Also, I never completely removed the front diff when taking off the pan but I will say it’ll make it easier although it’s not necessary. If you have the time then by all means do as you please, but if time is tight there are shortcuts and you will find them as you go along.

    I’ve heard the grey RTV is a good choice and I’ve read good things on it, but I can’t speak about it myself. I used the JB Weld “Ultimate Black RTV,” which I’m sure they both work either way.

    Best of luck to you and keep us updated!
     
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  6. BigBlue02HD

    BigBlue02HD TEAM FUEL MOTORSPORTS

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    I did an oil pump on my 99' RCSB without pulling the pan. Takes patience. Lol.

    Front of motor disassembly. Then open end wrench and lots if patience to get the single bolt out of the pickup tube. Being careful not to drop it into the pan. Then a small cut off wheel on Dremel to cut spot weld on pickup tube bolt tab. Rotate bolt tab 180° and use the other hole in newly installed pump to secure the pickup tube. Reassembly.

    There's a thread or more detailed write up out there I looked at before I did mine.
     
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  7. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    Hetz and bigblue Thankyou for keeping up and helping me out.

    I’m not sure about the tab on the pickup tube that I need to cut off? Can you help me out bigblue and explain it a little more. On the videos I watched today they only showed one 10mm bolt holding the tube into the oil pump. Also I watched an actual melling video that says the high pressure oil pump (the one I bought) needs to be disassembled and lubricate the two gears physically and then install the pump, gear and these tiny metal shims in between the two gears. Then align the crank with the gears and remove shims. In my melling box with pump and o ring and instructions none of this is stated. It just says prime the pump by putting oil inside and turn the gears a few rotations. Ok easy. I wondered if either of you had experience with this whole disassembly and shim deal? Another thing yayyy! A video I watched said to acheive TDC on cylinder one by turning the crank bolt until the two timing gear notches line up. Then pull the pump and everything will be lined up that way for reassembly. Necessary? Well I figure I’ll ask all the questions I have here at once since you guys are badasses. Do I need to replace the front engine seal inside the timing cover when I’m already all up in that momma or if it ain’t leaking then leave it? Last thing I promise. Is it easy to drill out the rivets in original oil pan gasket? Is it more or less they kinda break off with minimal drilling?

    Ok Thankyou guys. Not going to lie stressing a little bit about this job. I can’t f up my money ticket Chevy you know. Thankyou In advance.
     
  8. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Alright well let me say that since BigBlue has done this before I’ll let him tell the details but I have read about the mod on the oil pickup tube. Personally I think it’s a good mod and I have no idea why the almighty Vortec didn’t make it with the tab already on the front side. I’ll let BigBlue explain lol.

    Anyway, I’ve never heard of the shim deal the video speaks of but I’m sure it varies by manufacturer as well as pump model. Putting cylinder #1 at TDC before taking all the timing stuff off is just to make it easier to reassemble and keep it all in time. I’m sure it’s not necessary, but as stated it will make it easier to reassemble.

    YES, replace that front seal otherwise you’ll be doing this again in the future when it does finally go. But that’s also based on opinion I guess...others say if it’s not leaking now then it’s still good. I’d rather be safe than sorry. Like I said: it’s more of opinion.

    The factory rivets were pretty easy to drill out since they were a soft metal, probably aluminum if I had to guess. They eventually kinda popped out after I started drilling the first half and I’m assuming it’s because the head of it got removed with the gasket. Nothing to it, just make sure to be gentle with the pan and the sealing surfaces.

    I don’t mind questions but if I don’t know or I’m not sure, I’ll give you my best answer. BigBlue is more of a badass than me and pretty much most of them. A lot of the frequent commenters have been around a while or are wise in their ways. As for me, I’m just a weekend warrior learning as I go lol.

    Don’t stress, take what you know and break it down step by step. I guarantee it seems daunting but it won’t be that bad once you get into it. Just a lot of patience, wrenching, and asking yourself why (only when you’re stuck) but it’ll all turn out a-ok

    Just keep on keeping on
     
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  9. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    Thankyou hetz! Sorry I’m trying to respond on here between two jobs and 2 kids homework lol. I appreciate all your help man seriously. You are a badass too don’t doubt your self. I would call myself an avid weekend warrior and won’t pay nobody to fix erthang from the trucks to the sinks. Anyways.

    I got the front seal and water pump gaskets today at Napa. Wasn’t too expensive with my parts discounts. Figured I might as well replace the WP gaskets since it would suck to do all that and have old one fail however long from now.

    I like the whole lining up the timing chain gears for TDC to make it all lock in nice so I’ll do that. On the pump and the shims and all that bull crap. A friend of a friend of a Friend (lol) works at the stealership and says just put that sucker on and prime it and line it up that’s fine. So that’s a relief..


    thanks for the tip on the rivets sounds good. And hopefully big blue has some time to chime in on this pickup tube deal. You guys are awesome and again I really do appreciate the guidance. Thankyou for the kind words and positive thinking. I will have a good plan and step by step deal lined out before I start this. I’m comfortable with all of it until the oil pump haha.

    If there’s any way I can help you guys out let me know!
     
  10. chubbs

    chubbs GMFS Member

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    Don't use sealants & gasket makers unless the manual calls for it; sometimes it's necessary to use a couple of dabs on a metal-to-metal interface where an oil pan meets the timing cover or intake manifold meets the engine block but that was on a Buick based engine I messed with last year so I don't know the spec' on this motor. What I can tell you is that a guy that I know went & used sealant everywhere on a rebuild of some sort and lost oil pressure because all of that $hit came off in the sump or oil pump and stopped-up the oil pickup screen. The manual will tell you what to use, how much and in which locations but other than that clean & prep the mating surfaces properly, use new gaskets and trust them to do their job.
     
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  11. LongGoneSilver

    LongGoneSilver GMFS Member

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    Welcome bustnuckle! I second chubbs 100% on only using sealants if the books calls for it. And hetzlr_l33 is right on the money about breaking it down into steps. Im sure you already know this since youve always worked on your own trucks, but I know for me the only way I can complete a big job like that is by making it into a series of small jobs. I wish I had technical advice I could give you, Ive never done an oil pump on a vortec before though, sorry. But I can give encouragement and thats better than nothing. You got this dude, no sweat :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  12. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Chubbs is right, but I bet that guy used RTV like it was holy water and even used it with the gaskets. The oil pan only needs an inch long bead on all four corners where the front and rear covers meet the block. If it has a gasket, you’ll more than likely only need the RTV for the joining surfaces where it “T’s” with another sealed part.

    The manual will tell you where to put it and how much. You’d have to put a whole tube of RTV around the oil pan and then that’s when it’ll slop into the pan with the oil and get wedged in the galleys.

    I understand Bustnuckle, I usually only go on the forums at night or if work is slow. You’ll officially be a badass when you’ve tackled this oil pump lol. I’m helping a friend with intake manifold gaskets on a 02 4.3 silverado and that’s a job and a half. Glad mine is newer (by 3 years) and more simple to work on hahah.

    But all in all, it shouldn’t be a major obstacle and your buddys’, buddy’s, buddy is right about just priming the new pump and making sure it’s lined up. I can’t see shims going into play on these motors, it may have been for a different motor.

    I’m hoping the best for you and keep us posted as you go! Maybe you can do a write up for someone else in the future who’s in the same situation.
     
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  13. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    Hey boys. First. Chubbs and longonesilver Thankyou for your input and help. Any and all advice helps me Thankyou!

    So. I opened the garage and started getting shit out and going to work about 7am this morning. I went with bigblue method on not pulling the oil pan because I’m an idiot and the Chevy is lifted and well to remove the front diff I had to remove basically the whole lift kit and control arms and yea f that. Plus I watched about 3 videos saying you ain’t gotta mess with the pan. So I started on the top end with that in mind. I pulled the fans, hoses, belts, water pump, and the plastic covers and other random shit in less than 2 hours. I had my buckets and cardboard down cause I was ready for the tidal wave of coolant but yes that shit got everywhere lol. Anyways through the rest of this time I have been cleaning shit because I am seriously stuck on that crank pulley :) it’s a ex girlfriend drunk and mad (I.E. a bitch)i got the bolt out ok I heard of a nifty trick with some chain and the crossmember worked like a charm. anyways I’ve tried about 4 times with the 3 jaw puller and a 1/4” 6inch extensión in the crank hole (afraid to use 3/8 xtension for the crank threads) I’ve got the puller positioned correctly and the rod pushing into the extension and I’ve wrenched on that sucker for a couple hours now repositioning and trying from bottom or top of truck. Nothing guys. The pulley keeps rotating so I hooked my chain up again and I got the pulley to stay but damn it if that pulley ain’t moving! I’ve gotten the puller so tight I’m afraid it will break. The pulley won’t budge an inch guys. I’ve got it soaking in pb breaker now and I’ll try again soon. But this really sucks as at this hour I was supposed to be way further into this job. Anybody have input if I’m doing it wrong? I’ve been online for an hour and looks like I might have to heat the shit out of the pulley or hammer on the puller tool end? It’s just crazy the videos I watched the pulley literally came right off with the 3 jaw puller. I’m going crazy guys! Thanks I’m advance. This time tomorrow I’m going to punch myself in the d if I ain’t got into the oil pump by then. Thanks for reading all my bullshit. Please lemme know if you can!!
     
  14. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    Oh I forgot
    Pictures Yayyy!

    5FEC7D19-AABB-48EB-A1C4-D79B0A2C06CF.jpeg
    My current view.
     
  15. Bustnuckle

    Bustnuckle GMFS Member

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    Ok my phone is being weird. Having trouble with the pics in one post?

    98401FBB-BED1-40FF-BBAD-E8BA21683D29.jpeg
    Ok these uploaded backwards sorry. This is just a pic for fun! E19A009C-7921-450F-B57B-752EF8A9D43A.jpeg
    Ok here is behind the pulley so you can see the tool is hooked right and you can barely see the extension in the hole.
    48F2296A-4C4F-41E4-B694-41E5F72B5850.jpeg
    Here is a front view you can see it’s all lined up and cool beans. 4F92A95C-3B1F-453D-9974-FC612A6B615F.jpeg
    And another maybe better angle of what’s going on in there.

    Thankyou fellas. I know I’m posting a lot but everyone has been stuck with no one to help around. yaddada mean. :)
     
  16. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Alright well first off let me say that if everything goes smoothly, you’re not doing it right there is ALWAYS something that puts a snag in the project.

    Anyway, I’ve heard the crank pulley to be a PITA but as you’ve seen it’s only the lucky few who actually experience it. You could try giving it some whacks with a hammer after you have it cranked down on pretty good, crank on the puller, give it some whacks, repeat. That should eventually help the pulley work its way off.

    Another thing that’s not necessary but may help with cranking the puller: put some grease on the end of the bolt where it goes into the extension, that will help reduce the resistance once it gets tight. It’ll make cranking down on the puller more of a breeze than a struggle lol.

    Patience is a virtue and persistence is key, both are needed and will help see it through
     
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  17. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Also, I imagine that chain is pulling that pulley down as it’s being slid forward since it’s tight. Do you understand what I’m saying? That pulley is on the crank very snug and if you don’t pull it off evenly, it’ll get stuck and you’ll struggle more than anything.

    It’s like pulling a bearing race, it has to come off straight otherwise it’ll bind itself. I could be wrong but I’m just throwing out what I’m picturing can be affecting it.

    Worth a shot although I’m not sure how to keep it from turning unless you have another person to help.
     
  18. BigBlue02HD

    BigBlue02HD TEAM FUEL MOTORSPORTS

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    Checking back in..... Looks like you're underway! :thumbsup:

    I remember mine being super tight too. I had a lot of force on my puller and I remember the "pop" sound it made once the pulley let loose. Then easy sailing. IIRC I had to use a ratchet strap to keep things from rotating on me.

    You may have seen the "tab" on the oil pump pickup by now in videos/pics or understand what I was saying better?!? But, the oil pump has a mating surface with two drilled and tapped holes. The oil pickup tube is OEM bolted to the "harder of the two" to remove and get to without pan removal. By grinding the tab and allowing it to spin 180*, you can use the "other hole" in the pump, which is MUCH easier to get to.
     
  19. BigBlue02HD

    BigBlue02HD TEAM FUEL MOTORSPORTS

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    http://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/location-and-replacement-of-oil-pump-on-5-3l.21136/#post-5853586


    Post# 13----


     
  20. 06GMC5.3L

    06GMC5.3L GMFS Senior Member

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