55-58 Chevy Truck Project

Discussion in 'Under Construction' started by Bam55, Dec 15, 2016.

  1. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Hello guys I'm new here and decided a nice way to introduce myself is to show you the project I've been working on. Its taking longer than I thought but things got out of hand with the mods.

    Here is what I started with.

    1958 Chevy Big Window I only bought it for the cab. I bought it from a guy that kept it

    in a trailer park.

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    So I’ll start with the frame I install a Mustang II, 4 link and c-notched the rear of the frame.

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    I made a frame rotisserie out of two engine stands to get the frame ready for paint.

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  2. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    8.5 Chevy Rearend Narrowed to 58 inches (mounting point to mounting point) with moser housing ends and axles.

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    I had to modify the caliper bracket and the axles retainer to install my disc brakes. Here is what I came up with.

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    The rearend completed . I cut those micky mouse ears off the rearend to make it clear the bed floor and it also looks better.

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  3. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    I had to redo the c-notch for more clearance for a lower stance.

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  4. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    There was extensive rust damage on this cab but I wanted a big window cab and I had to have it.lol I should have waited because I ended up building a cab.lol I had to replace both cab corners, the steps and rockers, floors, and the roof.

    Cab corners replaced

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    Steps replaced

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    Floor replaced

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    Roof replaced.

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    Door Repair

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  5. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    58 Fender repair

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    After all this work I knew what I really wanted was a 55-56 truck. I have a 55 210 and I always wanted twins.lol

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    I decided to change the front clip to a 55. How it came about was a friend challenged me to fix some terrible 55 fenders and they came out nice so I said why not.

    55 Fenders

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  6. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Okay now for the custom mods I added which are.



    55 Chevy car dash

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    Shaved parking lights

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    Shaved drip rails

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    Smooth the vent cover

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    Shaved gas filler

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    Shaved firewall

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  7. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    3rd brake light

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    Rounded door corners

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    Rounded front and rear bed corners

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  8. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Mini tubs

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    Shaved door hands and bearclaws latches installed in reverse because I want the solenoid in the cab corner instead of at the bottom of the door.

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    7-55 1st Series Chevy Truck Battery access door.

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  9. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Pancaked the hood.

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    Smoothing the Steps

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  10. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    A couple of mock up pics.

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    Installed the No Limit Flip Hood Kit

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    Anyway guys here is the boring stuff I've been working on but you said you wanted pics. I had to add some round tubing to the front the door to get it right. I think it will look decent once I grind down the welds and make it flow on the edge. Man the door fitment on these things leaves much to be desired.

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  11. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    I thought since I rounded the doors in the front and shaved the drip rails I mightiest well go all the way and round the rear of the doors.

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    I welded up the seam in this area. I then used Duraglass over the welds to smooth everything out.

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    A little primer and I like it much better than that unfinished look that came from the factory.

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    Its getting there I guess I'll keep chipping away at it inch by inch.

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    This was my first time using this product, a buddy of mine told me to try it. I decided to try it on my dash to fill some minor imperfections. I liked it so much I did the roof also.

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  12. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    You can never have enough good fenders. I had a mess up fender laying around and a new repoped fender that someone gave me. The repop fender fitment was horrible so I decided to use it as a patch panel. I have a passenger fender that I already primed but when I checked the fitment I like the mess up fender a little better. So I decided to fix the fender and use which ever one I like the best when I put the truck back together. Or I just used it as an excuse to weld something together.lol

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    This is what is left of a new fender that I used for patch panels because the fitment was so bad. I used the rear for another fender for a buddy. It still has some use so I will not throw it out. It still has a good brace, eyebrow, and front and top panel. Somebody may need a piece of it so I will keep it. I know too many hotrodders to throw it out. I don't know about the other new fenders, but the fitment for this one was garbage.

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    Here is the fender after metal finishing.

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    Fenders in primer, still needs to be blocked but they are coming along.

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  13. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    I got the sectioned hood in primer. It was a lot of hammer and dolly work but here it is.

    Oh yeah I had to make a brace for the sectioned hood. I made it out of 1 inch wide and 1/4 thick flat stock. Making it flow with the radius of the side of the hood took some thought but it came out decent.

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    Well I decided to start getting the rear fenders ready for primer. I wanted to use these for the truck because they were giving to me by a buddy who bought new ones and he has passed away (He knew they were rough but did not want to throw them away). So I wanted something of his on the truck, so I went to through the trouble of saving them. My question is do you know what evils lives under your primer.

    Bondo, bondo, bondo.

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    This is what was under all that bondo

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    This is what I had to cut away. Yikes

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    Yeah thats another fender in that background covered in bondo also.lol
     
  14. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    I had some front fenders that I've been gutting that provided the majority of the patch panel. A little tweaking and they worked fine. That little rust spot that was left I just formed my hand.

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    I used a 3/32 2% ceriated tungsten and 1/16 filler rod and tried to keep the smallest HAZ I could. Tig welding sheetmetal is great, you can see how low the bead profile is and some of the metal finishing I started. Man you can hammer and dolly that HAZ to your hearts desire.

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    And here it is, almost ready for primer a little more welding and hammer and dolly work to do and very little filler will be needed now.lol

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    Over the years these trucks were really used and used hard.lol Man this fender has dents and digs all along the top area. I used a big red marker to color in the top which I will block sand to see the highs and lows.

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    I also made this slapper and find it does a great job.

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    On the back side you must choose a dolly that is very close to the contour of the sheet metal.

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    After sanding here is what I had

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    After the first use of my slapper and dolly I sanded again and here what I have. As you can see the low area is getting smaller. Sanding between hammer and dolly work shows me were I need to concentrate.

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  15. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Worked some more and sanded and had this.

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    Here what I accomplished the first day, still a lot of work to do but a fender that most would have trashed or covered with way too much filler will be used with very little filler when done. After I remove all the major of the dents I will red marker again and try to fix all the imperfections. All the red markets that are left need to be worked but as you can see there is a world of difference.

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    It just takes patience and work.

    Undercoated the bottom of the cab with a bedliner kit. I will also be spraying it on the interior floor.

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    I welded up all the interior seams and grind them smooth to give it that smooth and finished look that was lacking from the factory. I got it in primer and now it needs to be blocked sanded. I'm happy with the look so far. It was a lot of work but I've been told many times that the devil is in the details.

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    I mocked up the hydroboost unit and plumbed the brake lines.

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    I know its over kill but I base coat cleared the gas tank just because. No other reason.

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  16. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Here is the tank installed between the frame rails.

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    Corvette filter/regulator installed

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    Modified the tank a little for the in-tank fuel pump and lines.

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    I knew I had to raise my bed floor 2 inches due to my c-notches. I was looking in metal yard for some scrape tubing and I could not find anything I liked, I decided to make my own 2 inch spacers. I try to keep things simple it makes life easier, but of course I will have to move the angle strips on the bed up 2 inches so that bed sits in the same spot as factory.

    I will use the bolt to hold the washers in place and then weld it together.

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    Here is one of the spacers completed. I will need six of them for the three cross sills.

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    I welded the spacers to the frame.

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    Just checking cross sill bolt alignment.

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  17. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    Finished and repainted.

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    Before I mount the bed I have to move the angle strips up two inches and bed should fit like factory but the floor will be two inches higher.

    Here is the panel with wheels I bought for the truck just to try to get an idea. The truck will have no emblems and the only chrome will be the bumpers.
    So I wanted to see the color against the polished aluminum wheels.

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    Shifter

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    Seats mock up.

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    The firewall is looking pretty good.

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  18. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    More smoothing seams.

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    Well I finally got some color on the truck, well the interior. I could not wait to see want the color would look like so
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  19. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    I could not help myself.lol I always wanted the progressive automotive x member/transmission mount but put it off due to cost. But it keep calling me so I broke down and bought it. Well anyway here it is.



    As shipped

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    Welded together and cut down for installation

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    Installed. Removing the factory crossmembers were a lot of work but I like this better.

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    The Transmission mount is just sitting there in this pic, it will not be welded in until engine and trans mockup.

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    I also decided to fab up a tubular cross member to replace the factory one.

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    The set back of installing the x member means I can no longer use the factory brake assembly.
    So here is my brake bracket I fabricated. As you can see I also had to notch the frame to have clearance for the Hydroboost unit.

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  20. Bam55

    Bam55 GMFS Member

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    I already modified the panel assembly, all that is required is a push rod extension but I think I better wait until the cab is back on to mock it up so that I know the brake is in the right spot.

    Here is the piece I fabricated for the pedal assembly.

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    After a lot of measuring here it is tacked in place. I'm going to leave it tacked until the cab is back on the frame, because I may have to move it a little bit.

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    Here is the pedal installed. Yes the push rod connection clears the bottom tube by about 1/2 inch. As you can see I need to make or purchase a longer push rod extension.

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    Well I got the frame repainted.

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    Here is the push rod connection to the brake pedal I had to fab up the mount for the brake pedal.

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    Last edited: Dec 15, 2016

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