Question Diesel grade oil for L33??

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by hetzler_l33, Jan 3, 2017.

  1. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    What's going on guys, hope everyone had a great break. I'm sure everyone knows about the L33 engine and its oil thirst, but I have yet to find a way to noticeably slow it down. I've tried engine flushes and everything in between with no success. Now I've read somewhere that someone said screw it and started using diesel grade oil in their engine. I mean on paper I guess it'll work since it's thicker but I'm not sure about the technical side. The last time I changed my oil, I reset Trip B to count the miles before my check engine light comes on. I checked the dipstick at 1K miles and it was already at the lower end of the checkered pattern. At 2K miles, I checked it again and it was even with the very bottom line of the checkered pattern. Now at 2,436 miles, the "check oil level" light came on. It's been the same story since I got it back in March 2013 but I've just been putting up with it. Now I'm looking for ways to slow it down and I have been told by many that it's just how these engines are made and that it's tough cookies. There are no signs of oil being burnt, i.e. no smoke or smell, no signs of oil in TB, and the PCV valve is the updated orifice style. Truck is a 2005 Silverado 1500 Vin B 5.3L. Anyone have experience dealing with this or any suggestions on other ways to help this engine from eating its oil? Thanks for any help!
     
  2. Phildirt

    Phildirt GMFS Member

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    I would not use diesel oil in a gas engine. The additives are not good for your piston rings and your cats will clog. Any benefit from the lower viscosity will eventually be outweighed and you may end up making it worse. I'd stick to gasoline engine oil but look at a heavier weight if you're thinking the thicker oil is going to help.
     
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  3. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    I switch between 10w-30 and 5w-30 according to seasons, 10w for summer and 5w for winter. If there is a difference its very slight and not noticeable in the heavier 10w. I figured the viscosity would eventually make it worse, thanks for the input.

    What about the fact that the engine block is aluminum? Would expansion due to heat be the culprit leading to the slight increase in tolerance between the piston rings and the sleeves where the oil creeps past and gets burned? It's obviously too small of an amount to see or smell but enough to affect it in the short term. I'm just bouncing ideas around, I'd love to find a way to even just slow it down to every 5K miles and not every 2,500 miles.
     
  4. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    Check out bob is oil guy. Lots of good info on there about the 5.3.. going to use a 15w40 next oil change..right now using Quaker state green bottle and it has done very well compared to Pennzoil and Mobil one I used..don't waste money on synthetic oils..mine does 100% better on conventional oil..i have the same problem as you with the l33 but that's the combo I have found to work the best! Also use a wix filter

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
     
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  5. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Thank you, I'll take a look and I'll get a heavier oil this weekend since I have to change mine anyway
     
  6. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    I'm using a 5w30 right now..there are a lot of people who use rotella 5w40 with good success in the 5.3..do a search and you will be surprised at what you will find..

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
     

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