Question Diesel grade oil for L33??

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by hetzler_l33, Jan 3, 2017.

  1. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    What's going on guys, hope everyone had a great break. I'm sure everyone knows about the L33 engine and its oil thirst, but I have yet to find a way to noticeably slow it down. I've tried engine flushes and everything in between with no success. Now I've read somewhere that someone said screw it and started using diesel grade oil in their engine. I mean on paper I guess it'll work since it's thicker but I'm not sure about the technical side. The last time I changed my oil, I reset Trip B to count the miles before my check engine light comes on. I checked the dipstick at 1K miles and it was already at the lower end of the checkered pattern. At 2K miles, I checked it again and it was even with the very bottom line of the checkered pattern. Now at 2,436 miles, the "check oil level" light came on. It's been the same story since I got it back in March 2013 but I've just been putting up with it. Now I'm looking for ways to slow it down and I have been told by many that it's just how these engines are made and that it's tough cookies. There are no signs of oil being burnt, i.e. no smoke or smell, no signs of oil in TB, and the PCV valve is the updated orifice style. Truck is a 2005 Silverado 1500 Vin B 5.3L. Anyone have experience dealing with this or any suggestions on other ways to help this engine from eating its oil? Thanks for any help!
     
  2. Phildirt

    Phildirt n. fil-dert.

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    I would not use diesel oil in a gas engine. The additives are not good for your piston rings and your cats will clog. Any benefit from the lower viscosity will eventually be outweighed and you may end up making it worse. I'd stick to gasoline engine oil but look at a heavier weight if you're thinking the thicker oil is going to help.
     
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  3. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    I switch between 10w-30 and 5w-30 according to seasons, 10w for summer and 5w for winter. If there is a difference its very slight and not noticeable in the heavier 10w. I figured the viscosity would eventually make it worse, thanks for the input.

    What about the fact that the engine block is aluminum? Would expansion due to heat be the culprit leading to the slight increase in tolerance between the piston rings and the sleeves where the oil creeps past and gets burned? It's obviously too small of an amount to see or smell but enough to affect it in the short term. I'm just bouncing ideas around, I'd love to find a way to even just slow it down to every 5K miles and not every 2,500 miles.
     
  4. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    Check out bob is oil guy. Lots of good info on there about the 5.3.. going to use a 15w40 next oil change..right now using Quaker state green bottle and it has done very well compared to Pennzoil and Mobil one I used..don't waste money on synthetic oils..mine does 100% better on conventional oil..i have the same problem as you with the l33 but that's the combo I have found to work the best! Also use a wix filter

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  5. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Thank you, I'll take a look and I'll get a heavier oil this weekend since I have to change mine anyway
     
  6. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    I'm using a 5w30 right now..there are a lot of people who use rotella 5w40 with good success in the 5.3..do a search and you will be surprised at what you will find..

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  7. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Just an update:

    I followed @Phildirt's and @corey v's advice and went with 10w-40 oil to see if it would help and it's actually the same oil consumption rate. It seems that it eats 2 Qts. per 2,200 miles and the heavier weight showed no difference. Guess it's just a black hole where oil goes for no return...

    Thanks for all the help guys!


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  8. Phildirt

    Phildirt n. fil-dert.

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    I didn't tell you to do that. I just said don't run diesel.

    Corey didn't tell you to run 10-40 either. I think he suggested 5-30.
     
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  9. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    You suggested to look at a heavier grade instead of a diesel oil and Corey put his input in about him using a 5w-40 and the success he had which I couldn't find a 5w-40 so a 10w-40 was my option


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  10. Phildirt

    Phildirt n. fil-dert.

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    Ahh ok. Disclaimer I said "if you think a heavier oil is going to help". On the bright side it forced me to Wikipedia your motor and I learned a lot about it. Honestly didn't even know they existed until this thread. Very cool if you can figure out where the oil is going.
     
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  11. Phildirt

    Phildirt n. fil-dert.

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    My moto background leads me to think it has to do with expansion/contraction that's probably more pronounced with the aluminum. I had an 80 CB750 that would leak like a sieve with synthetic but not at all with standard. I used to put that honey crap in it just to make it leak even less lol.
     
  12. BoltspeedMen

    BoltspeedMen GMFS Member

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    These motors do tend to burn oil, for various reasons throughout the years. And it has to be going some where. assuming it's not leaking. I own a L33 and it had a pan leak, once that was fixed it started to lose a quart every 2k or so. It just so happens I pulled into my shop at sundown and left it running and I could see the faint outline of smoke coming from the tailpipe. Long story short I changed valve seals and there's no more problem.

    Besides that, I'd check:

    Check heads, if it's 706s they may be castechs that are prone to cracking.

    Go to the junk yard and try a different driver side valve cover.

    And swap back to 5-30.
     
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  13. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    Yeah, you're right man. I'm not down talking your advice but I was seeing what advice was out there to try because I'm open minded. I appreciate the advice and they're interesting, I honestly haven't had a better motor. If it's eating the oil, I don't have a clue where it's going.

    When the time comes to rebuilt or replace the engine, I'm definitely rebuilding it. They're unique in their own way.


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  14. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    I'm replacing the pan gasket this weekend because it's sweating oil. I've heard of the valve seals once before but I never heard back from the guy so I'll look into the seals along with the heads when I need to rebuild. It has 163k on it right now so it'd be pointless to slap different heads on and new valve seals with all these miles on it right now.

    I've already checked the PCV orifice in the valve cover and it didn't seem defective although I still cleaned it all out before putting it back.

    I'm pretty sure I have castechs 706s since it's factory from what I've read. That may be my problem after all along with the valve seals.

    Thank you for shedding some new light!


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  15. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    I just now saw that you replied, my bad.

    But I also thought that heat expansion had something to do with it and it very well be a contributing factor.

    Yes, that's exactly what another guy told me when he tried the synthetic that it was actually worse. I use the synthetic blend so maybe I need to try standard after replacing the gasket.


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  16. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    What oil did you use? Im running rotella t4 right now and seems to be doin ok..t6 5w40 can be found at oriellys or AutoZone even Wal-Mart

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  17. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    My truck would drink synthetic oil like nothing..shell makes a rotella synblend 10w30 that's very good also! Stop using full synthetic

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  18. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    I've used Castrol GTX High Mileage Synthetic Blend since I've had my truck. It's been the best so far based on engine performance like idling rpms, pressure, and so on. My walmart doesn't carry the 5w-40 in any brand and I honestly haven't checked autozone or oreillys yet.
     
  19. corey v

    corey v GMFS Member

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    Change out your valve cover on the right side and use conventional oil..I'm gonna stick with my 15w40 and see what happens..so far so good

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  20. hetzler_l33

    hetzler_l33 New Guy

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    I'll try that in a couple weeks when I have another free day but I don't think that may be it because there's no track of oil in my intake or intake manifold. But hey, it's worth a try. Yeah, if it works then it works man
    @corey v


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