Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by Forklift, Apr 2, 2005.
look at my thread about doing the alarm, I'll see if I can copy it over
there ya go
Thanks ALOT!! If im ever in your area - beers are on me!
for some freason the links are not working!!
HOW TO: Add new remote to factory keyless entry system on NBS trucks
The stealership would charge you nearly 100 dollars to do this, just a few minutes of your time and you are all set
If your original remote was lost or damaged you can order a new one (providing it has matching FCC numbers/etc) and simply add it to your vehicle. Here are the steps.
1. Get into truck, close all doors.
2. Insert key into ignition do not yet turn it on
3. press and hold the drivers side door unlock button
4. turn key ON, OFF, ON your horn will sound
5. Release unlock button
6. press and hold buttons 1 &2 (lock and unlock) on the remote for roughly 15 seconds, horn will sound twice.
7. Turn key off.
Let vehicle set for a few minutes, get out of the vehicle and now your remote should work
Something to note: My remote did not immediately work, I had programmed it, and when I got out it did not seem to take, but I went inside for roughly 5 minutes, came back out and tried it and it worked flawlessly
There you go, you just saved yourself nearly 100 bucks!
THE BIG 3 UPGRADE HOW AND WHY
When you normally run a 4ga to a system all you did was give half the system good power. By running an extra battery ground your increasing the battery output at the negative as well. The truck or car has just enough wire in it to run it, not a system. When you run that 4ga or 2 or 1/0 to the back, all you did was the power side, not the ground and the vehicle still needs power to run the lights, computer, ignition, etc. When you crank it up and the system demands more current than whats being provided, it robs other areas and voltage drops occur and your lights dim. What goes unseen is the ignition isnt getting good power, neither is the fuel pump or various other computer parts. When that happens gas mileage drops and the system isnt getting the proper voltage so you can get a clipped signal to your speakers effectively hurting them and anything else in your electrical system.
The how to is run a new 4-1/0 wire from the stud on the back of the alt to the + of the battery. Then you run a new same sized wire from the - of the battery to the frame and another from the engine to the body. That increases both powers that the alt is putting out with less restriction and gives the battery a - output equal to the power wire run to the back for the system. This way the system now has both the + and - it needs to run right.
HOW TO TAKE THE DOOR PANEL OFF W/O POWER
pop out the sailfin panel
removing the clip for the window crank
removing the inner lock control, theres also a 7mm behind it
and the handle surround
After that just lift up!
So then LR
brown is -
dk. green is +
dk. blue -
lt. blue is +
the +/- at the beginning is a little confusing.
now with NNBS info
this should be helpful to alot of you....
Where do they sell grommet pokers at? All I have left to do is run the 4 ga. thru that stupid grommet!!!! LOL Thanks and good sticky!
Super great sticky! much needed stereo info!
just so everyone knows....if you look at the metra links...copy down the part number and search them at sonicelectronix.com they stock all of that stuff since circuit city closed up shop.
I'm gonna e-slap you if you buy shit from those assholes.
can i ask why? i've never had a problem with them. you recommend someone else who carries metra stuff?
Yeah, a local dealer. Do a search here on sonic for a thread I created.
'nuf said. thanks for the heads up.
jonyb there carries a lot of that stuff.......
that thing was a load o crap... nothing seemed right
What size wire to run??
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