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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this 2000 Suburban a couple months ago. The guy selling it gave me a great deal, as the truck was vandalized, and needs a good amount of deep scratch repair work done, which I'm in the process of doing. In the mean time, It took the truck in till get it smoged, and just my luck! It failed smog. Technically, it wasn't "ready" as the on board system hadn't fully run its own diagnostic to give a reading, since the battery had been drained down while sitting before I bought it. I drove the truck around a while and instead of my problem disappearing, it grew. Check engine light came on. A scan showed pending codes of:p00D9,P3200,P0300 and confirmed codes of: P0134,P154, Here's a list of what I have done since getting the truck: wheels and tires, Wheel hub bearings, Radiator flush/new coolant, Engine and trans Oil/Filters, plugs and wires, intake air filter, cabin air filter, head lights, oxygen sensors, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, new gas cap, Re-flashed ECM. Today, I drove around maybe 5-8 miles, being very easy on the drive, and no light. It seems to come on during heavy acceleration, at around 55 mph, or if sitting in park and revving at 3000-3500 RPM. Any ideas on what could be causing the check engine light? The muffler has a small leak it looks like, but I ordered a flowmaster replacement already. I just need this truck to pass smog, but I'm not really looking for a band-aid to get through the smog test(rubbing alcohol, idling engine for hours before the test). Thanks. Note: My traction control is stuck in "off", ABS light stuck on (replaced wheel hubs that were causing tai-fighter sound, so fixed the sound, but light still on?), I can not turn on my towing assistance with the shifter, the oil pressure gauge jumps around when idling, from around 40 to 48 psi. Then it will flat hit 80 while accelerating, especially on the highway. It seems to run cold, as it takes a while to warm up, and never actually gets up past 185. It seems to have a strong motor and the transmission is not slipping, but it does seem to have a lag, where if I don't let it catch up before making any passing moves, it will struggle to pass, after a moment of lag, sometimes even throwing into too low of a gear it seems like as I'll almost get thrown forward before I get a response from the gas pedal. Again, regardless of suggestions, I'm already planning to replace the muffler, but I'm contemplating coolant temp sensor, injectors, coil packs, vacuum solenoid, vacuum lines, EGR/gasket, intake manifold gasket. Any pointing in the possibly right direction would be appreciated, thanks again.
 

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are the cats plugged or failing? a cat that is partially blown out will set off a cel under higher rpm but wont under low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's the cats, one is clogged, one is almost clogged. Fortunately(I think), I changed the oil yesterday, and before draining,I ran the engine for a good 7-10 min so it would pour out fairly quick and easy. Well, I noticed the driver side cat was piping hot, yet, the pipe passed the cat was hardly getting warm. Same with passenger side cat, but not nearly as hot. I mean, I guess this means my cats are going out?.. I don't know, I've never had to deal with this before one any of my cars, so I'm not sure what to look for other then the possible smell, red hot glow, and reduced engine performance which my truck difference from none. Granted it's possible only one cat clogged of the two. However, why wouldn't my computer trip a code for the cat? It's only telling me that the P0134 and P0154, bank one, sensor one, and bank two sensor one, which I know a clogged cat will cause upstream o2 sensor to fail, but the lack of the cat code itself is what threw me way off track. Should I spend the $300 on new cats and clamp them on myself? Has anyone experienced why problems with this type of connection? Or any advice on how to make the clamp on connection stronger?
 

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After you get the codes, fixed and cleared, look up GM OBD II drive cycle monitor readiness, and follow the steps.
Find a long country road, without stop signs, or traffic.
You will need to start, with a cold start,
idle with a/c on for 2 1/2 minutes, turn a/c off,
accelerate 1/2 throttle to 55 mph for 3 minutes,
decelerate to 20 mph, do not shift, touch brake or clutch,
accelerate at 3/4 throttle to 55 mph for 5 minutes, and decelerate to 20 mph, again.
The smog monitors should be ready, after this is done.
 
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