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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I haven't made a build thread yet, and truck is starting to take shape, and I have some questions, and need some input, so it's time to make a build thread.

Some back peddling.

Sold my 2007 Vokswagen Jetta, Bought a 2005 Polaris XCSP 600 & Bought the truck (2000 Chevy Silverado 1500, LS, 5.3L, 4x4, etc..., etc...) January 2013. Bought both cash, from Jetta's selling price. Bought truck off a friend for cheap. It was rough, and rednecked up, but I've been slowly reversing it, sled was crashed march 2013, and parted out.

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sled:
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hill it rolled down
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Day I picked truck up

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a couple months later, fixed it up a small amount, and cleaned it. Was broke student, so not much $$ was spent.

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a few picture along the last year or so

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The Canadian
Joined
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Since then, I smartened up, and spent some $$ while working my summers. Bought OEM 17's, clear corners, fog lights, HID's & LED's for all lights in & out, dumped the exhaust with a dynomax bullet in place of stock muffler. Removed flaps, steps, bumper lights, hood scoops. replaced rear tail lights, put in a NNBS shifter, and other small misc stuff. did a lot of mechanical work, and some small upgrades & cleaning along way.

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
And to now.

truck has 182K on it, runs great, has had a whole re-vamp.

As it sits, de-badged mostly, 285/55/20 Trail graps on OEM GMC 20's with 1.5" wheel spacers all around. Cranked on levelling keys, 2" block & AAL. DDM HID's for hi/low/fog, DDM switchbacks for DRL/corners, CAI, tinted, NNBS shifter, seat covers, weather techs, full LED interior/exterior.

Recently replaced shocks/CV's/all fluids/diff cover/UCAs (MOOG-complete)/inner & outer tie rod ends/Hubs/painted frame & misc areas.

I did the 05+ front, and 2 piston SUV rear brake upgrade with new lines.

I still have a new Delhi fuel pump & tank straps, sway bar bushings and misc. replacement hardware to install.

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
And now for up to the current day:

Well I picked up my lift this weekend. tarped it all up, and stuck it behind the shed for safe keeping until I compile all parts, and get it installed. So far I have:

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-Brand new, in box 6" RCX NTD, with steering damper (already in shed)
-kicker braces (Ordered 02/09/2014)
-New Timken hub bearing assy (already In shed)
-New NNBS CV axles (already in shed)
-TC traction bars (Ordered 22/08/2014)
-4.56 gears & master install kits (will be ordering soon)
-295/60/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers (Ordered 02/09/2014)
-1.5" wheel spacers for rear (Already have)
-Moog Lower Ball Joints (Ordered 02/09/2014)

Anyone think of anything else I should purchase? I was thinking of heim steering. About $290 shipped.

I want to do my idler arm & pitman arm first, how hard of a job? Should I do the idler arm bracket too?

I'm unsure of what big the lift will be set at. I have levelling keys, so as low as that can be cranked, without rubbing.

Anyone have input of what I should run for a rear setup? Right now I have a stock 2" block and an AAL. I have levelling keys cranked up, and still have 1-1.5" of rake.

How big of block should I run with the lift? 4"?
 

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00silvy
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3,679 Posts
I'd throw on some Bilstein shocks with the lift. I'd do the pitman and idler arm when you do the lift too. Do the bracket as well. Kind of a pain in the ass to do them but I did mine on a garage floor with hand tools by myself in the dead of winter. Moog idler bracket comes with a hose to reach the top zerk and makes it a lot easier. It's also easier to install idler arm when u get a new idler bracket. RockAuto or Amazon have best prices. I bought one yesterday for like $65 ish. I'd run stock keys with the lift and a 3" block since you have an add-a-leaf. Leave room when you cut your u-bolts in case you end up wanting a 4" block. You won't need to crank much to fit your setup. Truck is coming along nicely.
 

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In Valor There Is Hope
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8,277 Posts
Super clean truck, you did a nice job thus far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'd throw on some Bilstein shocks with the lift. I'd do the pitman and idler arm when you do the lift too. Do the bracket as well. Kind of a pain in the ass to do them but I did mine on a garage floor with hand tools by myself in the dead of winter. Moog idler bracket comes with a hose to reach the top zerk and makes it a lot easier. It's also easier to install idler arm when u get a new idler bracket. RockAuto or Amazon have best prices. I bought one yesterday for like $65 ish. I'd run stock keys with the lift and a 3" block since you have an add-a-leaf. Leave room when you cut your u-bolts in case you end up wanting a 4" block. You won't need to crank much to fit your setup. Truck is coming along nicely.
I wanted to do coil overs, but Atomic is saying they hit the UCA is some cases. So need to rethink front shocks.

And what is all involved in pitman, idler & bracket replacement?

How much cranking/lift will I need for 20x9's & the 295/60/20's?

I don't have stock keys, so Id like to re-use my keys. How cranked will it be with the levelling keys completely de-cranked?
 

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Registered
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835 Posts
I wanted to do coil overs, but Atomic is saying they hit the UCA is some cases. So need to rethink front shocks.

And what is all involved in pitman, idler & bracket replacement?

How much cranking/lift will I need for 20x9's & the 295/60/20's?

I don't have stock keys, so Id like to re-use my keys. How cranked will it be with the levelling keys completely de-cranked?
Trucks looking good man! I have stock keys from my 2500 if you want them PM me. You should be able to fit 20x9's and 295's without the lift, I think thats was kyle runs and ran before he even did the body lift

Edit: He runs 18x9's actually
 

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Trucks looking good man! I have stock keys from my 2500 if you want them PM me. You should be able to fit 20x9's and 295's without the lift, I think thats was kyle runs and ran before he even did the body lift

Edit: He runs 18x9's actually
34" MT's & 20 x 9's is big without a lift. would have to cut a lot, but not worried, as I will have a lift lol
 

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #14

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
That will look sharp man!
Just don't know If I want to drop $1500 on wheels, 2 month before they come back off again. I think I am gunna roll on the stockers for now, and get some new wheels in the spring. Gotta start saving for a new sled
 

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Just don't know If I want to drop $1500 on wheels, 2 month before they come back off again. I think I am gunna roll on the stockers for now, and get some new wheels in the spring. Gotta start saving for a new sled
That was my plan too, dropping $2500 on wheels and tires this close to winter seems stupid
 

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The Canadian
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3,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
That was my plan too, dropping $2500 on wheels and tires this close to winter seems stupid
I bought tires, but I already have decent 20's. So no point.

Also, I am going to gear my truck. Around 5.5-6" of lift, 295/60/20 (34-34.5" tire). I want 2200-2400 RPM @ 70 mph. Can that be achieved with 4.56's? Or will I need to go smaller? 4.30?
 

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2002 ECSB 4x4
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104 Posts
Truck looks great! Really like the way its going. I was wondering what brand wheel spacers do you have? Im looking at some 1.5" spacers but idk how i feel about cutting my studs down. ( I have heard you have too, for the cap to fit. )
 
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