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Discussion Starter #1
like the title says, when i turn i hear a pretty loud popping noise. especially when the steering wheel is locked. it only does it when it's rolling. a friend of mine said it may be the tie rod, but what are your opinions?
 

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Respect mah authoritah!
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time to replace the engine. spun a bearing.
 

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Do you have a regular cab? It could be the cab to frame cables.
 

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if its a cv shaft, they usually pop continuously as you roll, not just once. I had a similar problem on my 05 after an alignment. they never tightened the upper control arm rear bolt and it was just tight enough to not wobble by hand, but under a load or off camber situation, it would make a god awful pop/creak sound. check ball joints, too while you're under there.
 

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Odd that I came across this. My truck started doing this after I lifted my truck. Give us more detail on our truck/setup etc.

I really think it's the tie-rods on my truck. From the way it sounds, it doesnt sound like a CV joint pop. I'm about to upgrade my tie-rod ends from the OEM ones to something stronger and I will realign the truck once they are installed.
 

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prolly the intermediat shaft...

is the truck 4x4? is it a sound that goes with the speed your traveling.. like speeds up with speed of the truck or is it the same everytime
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mines a 2wd w/t. i had it dropped 4/7 with control arms and flip kit, but lifted it back up after i saw that the arms weren't installed right. i suspected it was the tie rods so i took it to the dealership, they said the control arms were loose, so they tightened the stuff up and re-aligned it. apparently that wasn't the problem because i still get a pop when i turn.

oh and they said the tie rod was just fine.
 

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prolly the intermediat shaft...

is the truck 4x4? is it a sound that goes with the speed your traveling.. like speeds up with speed of the truck or is it the same everytime
Mine is 4x4. So it's nice knowing his is a 2wd so that can rule out the cv joint.

I actually went out and checked my tie rod nuts to make sure they were tight and they are.

I'm almost wondering if it is actually the coil spring getting under some sort of bind. To me, that is what it sounds like. As if a coil spring was under load and shifting (turning) or doing something along those lines.

Can you feel a bumping feeling in the steering wheel?
If I do feel it, it's very minimal. It's more of the sound that gets your attention than the feeling.



Being that the OP had his truck lowered, wouldn't that narrow it down to the spring in our case? It makes a lot of sense. With the BDS kit, you use the stock spring on different struts, so it all had to come apart. With a lowering kit, you are getting new springs, correct?
 

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my pop would occur because the a arm would loosen up and shift when turning at low speed
Wow, that is interesting. I actually loosened my lower control arms the other day to see if I could get the suspension to settle a little bit and I havent noticed a pop since. However, I became very aware of when it did pop (full lock) so I avoid it. I guess I should try to see if I can get it to do it again.

I would assume you are talking about the LCA and not UCA? I never removed my UCA's during the lift install, so I wouldnt think those would be the issue.
 

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kissin hands shakin babie
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mine was the UCA and it is due to the added stress of the tires, plus if you got it alligned after the lift, they loosened them.
 

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mine was the UCA and it is due to the added stress of the tires, plus if you got it alligned after the lift, they loosened them.
You just made me realize something. You are referring to the UCA bolt. I'd think that if that was moving your alignment would never be consistent. That would lead to an alignment that is always off (at least camber anyways).

I'll have to check that when I get home to see if I can see any markings from it moving.

This would make for a valid point since when turning the wheel, the camber of the wheel changes. Add the weight of a larger wheel and tire and it's causing a lot of stress on the UCA.

I'll definitely get the best video footage I can when I get home and hopefully the camera can capture the sound (assuming it makes it).
 

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kissin hands shakin babie
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You just made me realize something. You are referring to the UCA bolt. I'd think that if that was moving your alignment would never be consistent. That would lead to an alignment that is always off (at least camber anyways).

I'll have to check that when I get home to see if I can see any markings from it moving.

This would make for a valid point since when turning the wheel, the camber of the wheel changes. Add the weight of a larger wheel and tire and it's causing a lot of stress on the UCA.

I'll definitely get the best video footage I can when I get home and hopefully the camera can capture the sound (assuming it makes it).
exactly, from riding it would loosen up for some reason, and allow the bolt to twist knocking me out of alignment.
 

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Mine pops a lot when turning. Some research online led me to this...

#06-08-61-003D: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator) - (Sep 10, 2008)

Subject: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator)

Models: 2004-2008 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2004-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
2004-2008 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic), Silverado
2004-2008 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL
2004-2008 GMC Sierra (Classic), Sierra Denali (Classic), Sierra, Sierra Denali



This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include diagnosis information. Warranty information has also been updated. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-61-003C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a pop or clunk type noise while turning or driving on uneven road surfaces. This noise can be heard and/or felt at either the driver's or front passenger floor pan area.

Cause

Under certain conditions, normal movement between the frame and the #1, #2 or #3 body mounts may cause this noise to occur.
Diagnosis

1. If the vehicle is equipped with aftermarket (non-GM Accessory) running boards or the running board is mounted using the body mount bolt, remove the running boards prior to test driving the vehicle. This will eliminate the running boards as the possible cause of the noise.
2. Install the J-39570 Chassis Ears to the frame rail at or near the body mounts.
3. Test drive the vehicle to identify which mount is suspect.

Correction

Install an insulator at the suspect mount(s). The insulator should be installed between the upper portion of the body mount and the frame bracket. The #1 mount is the mount located just under the A-pillar. The #2 mount is the mount located just under the B-pillar. The #3 mount is the mount located just under the C-pillar. Use the procedure listed below.

INSULATOR PART NUMBER 15899719

1. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. It is recommended to use a four-post lift or strap the vehicle frame to the hoist arms.
2. For the left side mounts only, remove the intermediate park brake cable. Perform the following steps:
2.1. Remove the nut from the park brake equalizer.
2.2. Remove the intermediate cable from the equalizer.
2.3. Depress the retaining tabs that secure the park brake cable to the frame.
2.4. Pull slightly on the cable from the mounting area in order to provide slack for body movement without binding the cable.
3. Remove all of the body mount bolts on the side being repaired.
4. Properly support the body at the body mount area.
Caution: When you remove the body mount, do NOT separate the frame from the body more than is necessary. Possible personal injury and damage to multiple parts may result.
5. Lower the chassis accordingly in order to remove the upper portion of the body mount.
6. Install the new insulator to the bottom of the top portion of the body mount. The picture shows the insulator (1) location after the body mount is reassembled.
7. Install the body mount to the frame bracket.
8. Perform the following procedure before installing the bolts.
8.1. Clean the bolt threads of all the original thread locking compound.
8.2. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.
8.3. Apply Threadlocker, GM P/N 89021297 (In Canada, use P/N 10953488).
9. Install the body mount bolts.

Tighten
For 2003, 2004 and 2005 model year, tighten the bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).

Tighten
For 2006-2008 model year, tighten the bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).
10. Reinstall the intermediate park brake cable (left side only).
 

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Intermediate steering shaft. There's a tsb on it and GM will fix it for free under warranty.
 
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