GMC Truck Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys and gals, My name is Dave and I have owned this truck since about 2003.

It has the 7.4 Vortec motor, this is the third motor going into it. I had the transmission rebuilt about 3 years ago and finally mated the motor to trans and transfer case. now I will give you the complete story behind the truck

The original motor broke the crankshaft just past the warranty. so, I bought a new crank, had the mains line bored, had to use back-sized oversize bearings put in a new factory cam, and everything ran great for about 1K miles, then started blowing white smoke, found pistons 3 & 5 oil rings were messed up. Instead of taking the motor out and doing a fresh re-ring with a performance brand ring set, I just did the two cylinders that were bad.

Put it together and it ran GREAT. about another 1K miles the #8 started blowing oil, at that point, I said F*CK it and go a donor motor with 40K on it. did a compression test and all was good. it took a couple of years as a project truck, opened the bottom end, physically inspected all the bearing, no ware on them and then greased them, and put the bottom end back together.

It is currently in the truck, I went thru the complete wiring harness, redid some loom, and retaped all the breakouts in the harness, so it is clean, dry, watertight, and looks good.
I also dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out, Tank Coated the inside, and installed a new fuel pump assembly. I have to finish new fuel lines and filters, yes, I. there is an S on the filter, I am going to run dual filters.

In the next few weeks, I will be connecting all the plug and play wiring, making sure each connection gets dielectric grease applied before being connected. It will have a new alternator, battery, water pump, water hoses, and tranny lines.

So basically this is going to be a new truck so to speak.

My question is, WHAT IS MY MAXIMUM towing capacity for this vehicle. I used to pull a 28 ft enclosed trailer that scaled about 12K and it never felt like I was towing. It does have the max factory hitch and never had an issue.

I know have a Tri-Axle trailer the was just rebuilt. new suspension, wiring, tires, and deck.

What I am trying to do is figure the maximum I can tow with it. I know that the door tag doesn't seem to be realistic. I think it's too low I just know that the motor has great power and the drive train is strong. I am just trying to see if there is a way to Max my towing capacity since all the weight will be distributed on the tri-axle. I just don't want to buy a new truck since this one is so close to completion.

any ideas of IF I can get a truck recertified for more than the door tag sticker?

any input would be helpful

Dave
[email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
The door tag takes into account all the components of the truck, not just the engine and transmission. The frame is designed to a certain rating, and the brakes are also rated for slowing down a certain weight safely.

And the max. listed on the door tag is reduced by whatever stuff you have in the bed or cab, like tools, passengers, equpment.

For someone to recertify your truck for a higher rating, they would have to take responsibility for it, that it can safetly handle the extra weight. Nobody is going to do that for a 20 year old truck, for anything less than a crazy amount of money, as they would be sued out of existence if you get in an accident. And I wouldn't be surprised that, if, say a miracle happens and you find someone who recertifies it, you would have difficulty finding an insurance company willing to insure it at the higher rating knowing it was recertified (and I would also expect them to really try hard to deny coverage if you get into an accident later without telling them).

You need to buy a truck that is rated to handle what you are planning to tow.
 

·
I have t-rex arms
Joined
·
353 Posts
You’re talking about a truck that was designed in the 80’s and was at the end of its life cycle when your particular unit was built. The frame, suspension, and brakes are rated for only so much. Plus, your frame and suspension are now 20 years old. Exceeding the ratings for this truck is unsafe for you and everyone around you. No one is going to re-rate this vehicle.

Go get a modern truck that is up to the task.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Well, the legal team has weighed in.
If your saying the brakes and suspension on the truck and the trailer are good….and your brake controller is dialed in….then just run it. Set your WD bars correctly. Do you in a state that requires ‘certification’? You’ll find out if the engine/trans is up to snuff. But I don’t get the hysteria. Not everybody has $70k laying around for a new row rig
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Well, the O.P. doesn't need to buy a brand new truck, just a newer, more capable one. A GMT800 3500 with a Duramax would likely handle it.

It sounds like the O.P. previously towed a trailer that put his rig just over the rating (it's around 12k for it, from what I can tell), and with the new trailer, he wants to blow past that by a bunch more.

The engine and transmission will likely be fine hauling it. It'll be the brakes that he has to worry about. When he has plenty of time and space to stop, also fine. It's when there isn't plenty of time and space to stop that's the problem, and even if it's the other person's fault you don't have the time/space to stop, the accident investigators will notice your truck is overloaded, and can easily change it to be partially/entirely your fault instead, and then your insurance have some questions for you...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
"The legal team" is correct though. That truck is only rated to tow around 10k lbs and while that sucks considering the motor is more than up to the task, it boils down to safety and if that isn't enough for you, then liability. If you get in an accident and you are overweight and someone decides to investigate it, you will be held liable for the accident even if it isn't your fault. at the minimum it is going to make your life hell until you are proven innocent. If someone dies in that accident you will be looking at potential murder charges because you were driving what is already determined as an unsafe vehicle.

I agree that it is fucked up since the vehicle is most likely more than capable and like you said most of your load is in the trailer and it has it's own brakes that are capable of stopping the extra weight. But if you can trust anything it's that lawyers and insurance companies will screw you over if it means they make more money. It pisses me off that my 78 crew cab dually can tow less than my buddies 2017 half ton silverado, hell it can tow almost as much as my 2003 2500 suburban. At least by law...
 
  • Like
Reactions: daved931

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Welp. DJ Dave asked for a number (max # pounds), so we can’t really answer that question . Did get some opinions, none of em are technically ‘bad’. A Moron in a bone-stock Prius can be charged with vehicular manslaughter. Let’s assume if you kill someone, you’ll likely be sued. Most likely the OP is a middle-aged cat, with some towing miles under his belt already….not some Red Bull guzzling 17 year old with a big ego.
He knows this truck like the back of his hand.
pretty sure I can find a ten year old snowplow truck, or repo rig, with a higher weight rating on the door, that’s WAY scarier to tow with, compared to Dave’s truck. Not trying to be difficult, just wanna inject some common sense into this conversation.
😬I’ll walk myself out, thanks for having me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
Welp. DJ Dave asked for a number (max # pounds), so we can’t really answer that question . Did get some opinions, none of em are technically ‘bad’. A Moron in a bone-stock Prius can be charged with vehicular manslaughter. Let’s assume if you kill someone, you’ll likely be sued. Most likely the OP is a middle-aged cat, with some towing miles under his belt already….not some Red Bull guzzling 17 year old with a big ego.
He knows this truck like the back of his hand.
pretty sure I can find a ten year old snowplow truck, or repo rig, with a higher weight rating on the door, that’s WAY scarier to tow with, compared to Dave’s truck. Not trying to be difficult, just wanna inject some common sense into this conversation.
😬I’ll walk myself out, thanks for having me!
I totally agree. My point was it won't matter who you are the lawyers will fuck you if they can. You can do everything else right and you will still go down by being overweight because they can. I am a 43 year old white male and I used to drive class A CDL vehicles with a completely clean driving record and I could be driving along minding my own business and if someone pulls in front of me and I hit them (completely their fault) I will most likely take the blame for the accident because they will make the claim that if I wasn't overweight (or driving a vehicle that was properly rated) I could have stopped in time. My insurance will also not cover me or my truck. Common sense plays no part in the courts or at least I am not taking the chance.

I also think there is a difference on where you are pulling that trailer. My Suburban is rated at 12k common sense wise with a properly braked trailer I would feel completely comfortable pulling twice that on a flat and level road. I would not however feel as comfortable coming down a 7 percent grade.

I don't think you're being difficult, I just think the point is worth making.

I did suggest total weight which was what the OP asked. Everything I have found for a 99 3500 with a 7.4 shows a tow rating of 10k lbs.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top