This is just a start of my build, 2003 2500hd, 6.0/4l80e with a 6-7.5 superlift. Added keys, an adda leaf and 37/12.50/17 km2s on h2s. Some of the mods.... jba stainless shorty headers, dynomax 4 inch exhaust, aem cold air kit, jet throttlebody spacer, hypertech programmer, refections cowl hood, trendz billet grille, removed all the badges and molding. The stainless trim pieces will be going soon. I removed the electric steps and put on stainless tube steps , also changed the grey fog light valance to a black one...Really good running and sounding truck. Heres the hd..
I got the idea of the sas from seing it on a few web sites and at the truck show, so i started collecting parts. First wasnt sure to go leafs or not so i looked for coils since coilovers are out of my budget. Heres some of the parts ive purchased.
Np241 with vss pigtail, adapter gasket and the 261 floor shifter. I bought that from just chevy trucks.com with 50,000 miles, real good guys to deal with, they make sure it works, doesnt leak and give a 30 day warranty.
Ford 1979 dana 60 with 4:10 gears to match, changed to chevy outers, all new from hub to hub except gears..all nicely painted. Ord crossover with highsteer, ruff stuff diff cover. the high steer is for 73-87 style trucks so the draglink needs to be shortened so i bought a tube insert from wfo, also the pitman arm is 3 blind so i filed the blinds down some so it will fit on my ifs box.
dluxfab tone ring kit, new acdelco abs sensors, russel brakelines
bilstein 5125 shocks x4, valved for dual shocks
Wheel spacers to even the stance, from a dealer on pirate, quality spacers.
Also this bloodyknucklegarage.com kit, will be here in the morning, was cage offroad, pics of it from petersons magazine. I wont get to this part for a few weeks until garage space is made for it but it should be real nice when done, worth the wait.
Pulled this out....wasnt too bad, easier than i thought by my self, even left the front shaft connected to it.
No web page as of yet, i found a email addy for jim cole and he responded right back, i talked to him a few days and i bought the kit. The radius arms and mounts are here, the trac bar, coils and coil buckets etc will be here tom morning...
I swapped the case, installed the shifter, connected the vss pig tail to the speed sensor on the 263 tailshaft wiring and it shiftes perfect. I put a pocket in where the 4wd switches were that i bought cheap from ebay. Heres a few, the carpet is a mess and the shifter bezel is the same from me mounting it.
Buying the dealer gasket for the 241 and the standard pigtail along with a new tailshaft seal it went real good. I disconnected the battery, pulled the module and the switches and no lights on...:worship:.....(thanks brian)
I plan on switching the gearing to 4:88s and either buying lift springs or doing a ord shackle flip to the rear to toss the blocks. Prob going to do the tone ring kit tacked on and the sensor mounts welded so that parts out of the way, picked up some 24 inch hard lines so i can move the brakelines to run down the shock instead of by the coil. The drive shaft had also to be retubed 2 inches longer so it has the right amount of slip, the differance is the 263 to the 241 is just over 3/4 of an inch.
I just hope 8.5 inches of lift isnt too much. I have now the superlift 6 inch with keys cranked up so im thinking it should be close. The cage arms are pretty tough, the boxes were 65 pounds each side...lol.
O my LANTA! something worth looking at! seems not much has been going on lately with the offroad forum worth mentioning. Should be a really nice build. Good luck man. Also are the spacer's for the front or rear axle? I'm assuming rear?
O my LANTA! something worth looking at! seems not much has been going on lately with the offroad forum worth mentioning. Should be a really nice build. Good luck man. Also are the spacer's for the front or rear axle? I'm assuming rear?
Since my h2 wheels have a pretty large offset(5.5) im not sure until i get the d60 in and the kit all bolted in to know if the tires will rub when turned. If they do ill run a 1.5 set up front and 2.0 in the rear, that will make them both stick past the flare about 3/4 of an inch. I have both sets already so ill see what they look like anyway.
There wont be much more to see tho for a little while tho.... This whole thing as been a learning process and ive asked a boat load of questions and hours of searching until i started it.
Heres my other project..lol. Although this one is all done for now anyway.
d60, 14b, 350 .040 12.5:1 on propane, sm465, 205, 456 gears, detroit lockers, 35 spline cromos, 53inch alcans, diy4x shackle flip, hydro assist, crossover, 39.5 tsl's...plus more lol......enough on that, its a distraction....
:shake:well either way im going to sub. I remember your truck from a long time ago on full size chevy or something when i was scanning thru pics. Deff my favorite truck with h2 wheels ive seen. Btw i know that the only rubbing on a guys blazer was the steering with h2 wheels. he put crossover on it and it solved this issue. This was a 85 blazer on 1 tons i believe.
:shake:well either way im going to sub. I remember your truck from a long time ago on full size chevy or something when i was scanning thru pics. Deff my favorite truck with h2 wheels ive seen. Btw i know that the only rubbing on a guys blazer was the steering with h2 wheels. he put crossover on it and it solved this issue. This was a 85 blazer on 1 tons i believe.
Ok well ill see i guess, i havent seen much of the cage kit on any chevys just mostly fords and none on h2s, ill have to keep looking....thanks, if i dont need the spacers ill run the 1.5s in the back and sell the 2 inchers.
Thankyou, i tried anyway. I wanted to check and double check all i could before tearing into it. There is alot of cutting to do to get the frame cleaned up. I guess the plasma will be on overtime..lol.
I have a front shaft left to consider, i have a 1310 from my 83. That has been ground to work with 8 inches of lift and a low pinion, it should even be a close length i need. It will be a temp shaft tho, just to test the truck out. Tattons makes real nice stuff for good prices and free shipping. They did the front 1350 shaft on the 83 and its been throught hell...lol. Prob have them do a 1350 for the hd also.
unless you plan on driving on the road and at high speeds in 4 wheel drive just build a homemade driveshaft out of square tubing. Thats what Drew(cajun4x4) has and it works well.
The drive shaft length a guy does locally pretty cheap, its more so the angle. Ill have to see what joints will work on that angle. Ill see when the times comes i guess, im not much into using square tube. Its more so i spent the cash on the rest why skimp there if you know what i mean. The square tube is a good idea tho, thanks, i know for sure when i get there..that could happen.
Ok on that one... the hp 60s go for around 800-1200 unbolted out of a truck, mine was 1200 all redone, Heres some of the parts
Ord highsteer kit...goes for over 600 alone
spicer life joints over 40 a piece
gm rotor, hub assemblies 240 a piece
calipers 35 each
new hubs 180 a set
new bearings over 50.00 a side
new seals over 50.00
ruffstuff diff cover over 100.00
new king pin kits over 50 a side
plus the time to tear down, clean it, paint it and have it all ready. If you ballpark all the parts even low it still comes over 1200.
Actually i kinda didnt do tooo darn bad and the catch is its already done, i prob missed some pieces also....lol. The guy even met me half way for pickup. I also needed a high pinion for my amount of lift, i was going to do leaves but changed my mind.
I didnt want an aam front axle, im not dealing with unit hubs, the newer ford 50s and 60s are close to the same price and might even be more.
It was one of them deals that for the price of it being redone that was the selling point, that one popped up and all the other ford axles were over 800.00 untouched. Almost anyone would of bought it if they had the money and it being a ford 60, no matter the year. if they were looking for one. I bought it to do leafs but i added custom leafs, plus all the parts it would of came to close to the price of the coil kit so like everything i changed my mind and went this route. Its alot more work but it should be a real nice setup.
Just source up a 1350 cv shaft from a ford and have it shortened. Should be minimal cost and with radius arms you will be using about the same amount of slip that those shafts were made for from the factory. Do work
Ball joints are absolute crap too. The only reason you don't see kingpins any more is because it is cheaper to manufacture ball joint hardware. You absolutely cannot beat the king pin set up. I know this is true cuz some guy said so.
In all seriousness, it is a matter of preference. I like kingpins and serviceable bearings.
A forum community dedicated to GMC and Chevy full size owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Silverados, Sierras, and other full size trucks performance, modifications, suspension, lift kits, tires, maintenance, and more!
