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Discussion Starter #1
You may remember my other 2007 build thread which involves a new buggy... Well that is on hold due to the city holding up my progress on my new shop and I'm not about to build it on an unlevel driveway.

Anywho, decided, against my better judgement, to do one more build on my truck. It has to be done by mid July for Blazerfest or at most mid August for the Rubicon run, Rubicon > Blazerfest fo sho.

To Do's:

-Put U419 axles under the truck in stock form other than 8 lug conversions and pinion conversions
-Rebuild front/rear suspension with new 1-1/4 heims
-New driveshafts using mog driveshafts slightly modified
-New front shocks since the old ones got killded.
-Rear hydro bump stops to match the front
-Limit straps all around to help shock seals last longer
-New non-recentered hmmwv wheels
-Swaybar on rear
-Top Chop <-- More on this later :hmm:
-New console with artcarr shifter


So annnyyywwwaaayyyyy, lets start now. First things first, mogization. Before I could put the axles underneath I need to do pinion conversions and 8 lug conversions. Starting with the pinion conversions:

Took the end 3.5" of the stock mog driveshaft and lopped it off. Turned it down to 2.375" OD and put a groove in it for welding purposes. Also took a piece of 4.75" round bar and machined it into a companion flange for a flange yoke.



They plop together with a .002" interference fit and then get welded. Pollished surface finish on the splined section since this is where the pinion seals will ride.



Next I took the torque tubes from the mog and cut off the last 9". This holds the existing pinion seal and outer pinion bearing race. So this has to be reused. I then turned a bore into the end of it for a .007" interference fit pinion seal. Actually, two pinion seals, I hate pinion leaks, or any leaks, and wanted dual seals. So that will be 3 total pinion seals on each axle. The seals are from a 1946 Ford 2.5 ton truck. I spent 3 hours going through catalogs until I found them, perfect dimensions in everyway and rated at 3500 fpm so there good to go! Cost $46 a piece though :insane:



Rest of the torque tube and recently cut-off chunk.



Mog pinions, one on the left has some issues, it was left in the rain by the US Govt. Everything is good except the outer bearing, it's just a spare anyway. You can see the start of my pinion conversion on the right:



Flange installed:



Driveshaft mocked on there to see how it looked:



Splined section welded to flange:



The shaft is bolted on using 6 1/2" UNF Grade 8 cap screws. Yes, quite overboard seeing how the 4.25 ton rated unimog used 6 3/8" bolts, but hey whatever:



I decided to use the stock mog driveshaft ends because they already have the flange on there and they have 1550 joints, the caps are almost 1.5" OD :crazy: . I don't think even I can break that... The t-case end will be 1410 but since the axle end will be hitting alot of stuff the bigger then better plus they are fully captured in the yokes, no straps or u-bolts. Takes an extra 20 minutes to change u-joints but I doubt I'll ever need to.

Both conversions are done other than needing to pick up 3 more seals. So thats one thing off the list. Next is brake conversions.

The hub adapters will be milled from 6061-T6 aluminum. These are the 8" OD x 12" long hub kits:



Yes they are large and were very expensive :nono: Speaking of expensive, bought 4 extra long 3/4 solid carbide TiaN coated end mills to hog these things with :bawl:

I'll be working on those during the week after work and next weekend. I'm trying to figure out how to cut both those chunks in half... They won't fit into my bandsaw :think:

Here are the rotors, custom yo.



They are 13" extra deep cryo treated. Calipers will most likely be early 90's Nissan Pathfinder dual piston front calipers unless my money tree blooms again then I'll get 4 piston wilwoods but don't really see the need other than the bling.

Other than that nothing else is done, but I have parts!



You can see the bump stops, some of the heims, brake rotor, tabs, artcarr shifter, shocks, etc.
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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Nice. So the plans are to run the mogs on the truck until, the shop is up and running and then build the buggy? Like me with all the parts sitting around and not much getting done. Ill be watching and asking along this thread.
 

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NCOR
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Awesome man, good to see you're getting the Chevy back together for one last series of hurrah's. Looks like you may just have more than me to do to get ready for Blazerfest and The Rubicon:crazy:

I cringe at the those aluminum stocks, did you have to buy at new stock price or where you able to pick them up at scrap prices? Eitherway my wallet sends its condolences. What kind of speeds do you run your mill at when you are roughing 6061? Ive only got access to a manual mill but I assume you've got flood coolant and that helps keep the end mill from gumming, Im always battling that crap.

I like the pinion conversion and driveline tech. Looks like that new lathe is getting a workout. Your OCD about leaks is excellent, triple seals sounds excellent.

Whatcha doing with those large pillow blocks? I would say driveshafts, but 2? Maybe a spare?

Oh and whats up with the new SAW? I thought you just needed a new shaft and seals? Just takes less time this way or was the body damaged?

Eitherway, looks like you have your work cut out for you. Bigger and better always seems to require it.
 

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DeepSouth Gangster
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You're my hero Jason. Best of luck to you. You're my hero Jason. Best of luck to you. I want to read about the chizzle of the top (izzle).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome man, good to see you're getting the Chevy back together for one last series of hurrah's. Looks like you may just have more than me to do to get ready for Blazerfest and The Rubicon:crazy:

I cringe at the those aluminum stocks, did you have to buy at new stock price or where you able to pick them up at scrap prices? Eitherway my wallet sends its condolences. What kind of speeds do you run your mill at when you are roughing 6061? Ive only got access to a manual mill but I assume you've got flood coolant and that helps keep the end mill from gumming, Im always battling that crap.
Depends on the cut but typically I'm running about 30 ipm at 900 rpm with the 3/4 end mill. I can run higher, way higher, up to 10,000 rpm and 100+ ipm but my coolant doesn't keep up with it at all. I need a new pump and they are expensive...

Whatcha doing with those large pillow blocks? I would say driveshafts, but 2? Maybe a spare?
Those are for the swaybar, one at each end to support it.

Oh and whats up with the new SAW? I thought you just needed a new shaft and seals? Just takes less time this way or was the body damaged?
It's easier just to buy new ones and the new ones are nickel plated and have built in bump stops, there spiffy. I'm going to sell my old ones to ryan with the new parts so he can use them someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh no not more cad drawings!!!!1111

This is the brake adapter. Basically takes the 10 bolt pattern that the lower portal gear has and steps it up to 8 on 6.5". Made as tight as possible the wms on this will be 71" where a dana 60 is 69". Not too bad...





The pockets on the front are for the socket head cap screws to sit flush. The step is where the rim and rotor will be hub centric.

The stub on the rear in the center is the centering spot that will insert into the lower portal gear on the mogs. The 10 bolt pattern is where the cap screws come through to the portal gear. The larger 8 bolt pattern is the pockets for the heads of the lug studs. Thats about it.
 

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NCOR
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Ah, now the stock BS'ing on new hummer beadlocks makes more sense.

Gotcha on the pillow blocks, other than the obvious reasons why those other than just rubber bushings or something like most OEM swaybars come with?

Ryan's going to need them if he ever expects to catch up with Kevin's bling as far as the c/o's are concerned. He doesn't even have the leg up on him in the motor department anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I didn't want any flex in the swaybar. The bushings where out quickly when your making a swaybar control 18" of vertical travel per side. Bit different than the 6 or so inches a stock bar controls. The bushings will just crack and fall apart quick. I've seen delrin used but it only lasts a year or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh yeah, I was laying under the truck figuring out my driveshaft routing in the front, wow, just wow, thats all I have to say lol. I need a gigantic "S" lol.
 

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Later, Tony
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Sorry to hear about the city, you never called me to move that gas line for you :crazy: Going to be a cool build, you know I'm always down to take pictures or help as much as I can as long as I'm not working :head:
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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Okay Jason Got a question for you. Will all your Link Geometry have to be changed to fit the mounting locations on the mog axles? I assume you are using the housings you built to save weight?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay Jason Got a question for you. Will all your Link Geometry have to be changed to fit the mounting locations on the mog axles? I assume you are using the housings you built to save weight?
Custom housings are not going on this truck, I haven't finished them yet and the company making the axle shafts is way behind schedule.

The link geometry will stay the same but the mounting locations will be different on the axle, the mounts will be based on the centerline of the wheels and not the axle tube. So the lowers will be below the axle tube instead of behind it and the uppers will be right ontop of the diff instead of 4-5" above it.
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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I figured something along those lines. You cant move them around too much especially up front. There is so much crap under the front that causes interference. Oil pan is the biggest thing in the way.
 

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NCOR
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Gotcha on the pillow blocks, I assume yours don't have the integral rubber isolators then? I remember you talking about a company that sells bars with a spring rate related to diameter that you could then play with by using shorter or longer arms, what is that place and what kind of rate are you shooting for out back now?
 
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