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layin big rubber
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i have a 2000 gmc ext cab

i have the factory tow set up on my truck, so i don't really want to lower it, not that i would probably use the tow set up or anything

but how much lift would i need to do to fit say 33's on 16's and wut would i need to lift it, i don't like that fact that the front is lower then the rear, so i need to lift the front or lower the rear 2inches

i was thinking about getting some lift spindlesand blocks out back, or those things that u put on top of the coils, that will give me the 2inches and the truck will be level

its been a few years since i have been into lifted trucks, my last truck was a 93 bagged , and my truck be4 that was a 84 gmc 1 ton non- daully, i had d70's front and back with 4.56 gears on 38x16.5 on a 15inch rim or it could have been 16in rim(i can't remember anymore), all leaf no blocks, carb 454, turbo 400 and i don't remember wut t-case i had, it killed gas like crazy tho

thanks for any help
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Joakwin said:
i have a 2000 gmc ext cab

i have the factory tow set up on my truck, so i don't really want to lower it, not that i would probably use the tow set up or anything

but how much lift would i need to do to fit say 33's on 16's and wut would i need to lift it, i don't like that fact that the front is lower then the rear, so i need to lift the front or lower the rear 2inches

i was thinking about getting some lift spindlesand blocks out back, or those things that u put on top of the coils, that will give me the 2inches and the truck will be level

its been a few years since i have been into lifted trucks, my last truck was a 93 bagged , and my truck be4 that was a 84 gmc 1 ton non- daully, i had d70's front and back with 4.56 gears on 38x16.5 on a 15inch rim or it could have been 16in rim(i can't remember anymore), all leaf no blocks, carb 454, turbo 400 and i don't remember wut t-case i had, it killed gas like crazy tho

thanks for any help
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A 3" spindle from Fabtech or a simular company will clear 285s on 16" stock wheels. Looks beefy too.
 

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Ross said:
A 3" spindle from Fabtech or a simular company will clear 285s on 16" stock wheels. Looks beefy too.
You will have to stuff those tires in there, just get a 6" kit, then you will skate 33's
 

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Yeah I rubbed 33's with a 6" fabtech and a 3" body on my old nbs 2wd. For 33's on a 2wd 6-7" of lift is perfect imo. Checkout CST's 7" lift, fabtechs 6 and 7" lift, and even rcd's 6" lift. If money is an issue, you could always use a 3-4" spindle and a 3" body lift. Stay away from coil spacers. They make the front end a bitch to align and the ride will be so much stiffer.
 

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I'm not sure if this person is still looking for advice, but I'm in the same exact dillema. In fact, I have the same exact vehicle. I'm driving a '00 GMC Sierra 1500 ext cab and after shopping around FOREVER I think that Fabtech's Ultimate 6" lift would be perfect because it's made to have a final product of 33" tires.
However, I'd like to know if anyone has any other opinions before I purchase this myself. I'm more curious on how smooth my truck will run after i get this lift plus, if there are any problems with alignment and such. I want to keep my truck driving like a new vehicle, just make it look less like a low rider.

Finally, anyone recommend a certain vendor for the best deal on this lift kit??? :think:
 

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I'd go with their 7" kit and run 33's. Reason being.. the 6" kit is a 3" spindle, and a 3" longer coil/upper arm.

When you put in a longer coil:
a.) the ride is going to be stiffer
b.) your upper a arm is going to be at a horrible angle, and you will be going through ball joints like oil changes.
c.) The coil that comes with the kit has hardly any travel. You won't get any compression or rebounding with the fabtech coil.

Advatages of the 7" kit:
a.) The lower arm is dropped down the full 7".
b.) The upper arm is left in the stock location, providing stock angles, and your ball joints will be much happier.
c.) It comes with lengthened coils and lengthened spindles, that make up for the dropped 7" arms. In otherwords, the lower arm is 7" further away from where it was stock. So, the 7" kit will include 7" longer coils. Compared to the 6" kit, which leaves the arms in the stock location, and throws in a 3" lift coil.

The 6" kit crams 3 extra inches without moving the upper or lower arm.
The 7" kit nicely fits 7 extra inches, by dropping the lower arm.

I hope some of this makes sense to you.
I had the 6" kit, with a 3" body lift on wide 33's. My ball joints wore horribly, and I even sliced through one once.
The 7" kit is a much better choice, and 33's will fit nicely.
 

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Your best bet would go through a local dealer. I'm sure Reno has got to have some shops.

You might find a couple cheaper prices online, but shipping will be a fortune, and you risk the chance of UPS/FedEx loosing parts, or shipping the kit with missing parts/no instructions.
 

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klemmentine said:
Your best bet would go through a local dealer. I'm sure Reno has got to have some shops.

You might find a couple cheaper prices online, but shipping will be a fortune, and you risk the chance of UPS/FedEx loosing parts, or shipping the kit with missing parts/no instructions.
Right on! Thanks for the insite! I appreciate all feedback and if others have more input, it would be greatly appreciated. The fact that its less than $100 difference to go to 7" vs 6" makes me hint to the 7". As far as purchasing online, I am looking to buy this online because my mechanic buddy will be installing it for me. So, I'd like to save as much money as possible. But if it comes to it, I may buy it locally.

Thanks!
 

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The 6" Fabtech is a good lift, the upper arms that came with the lift are at a good angle and the balljoints are holding great. I've like 20,000 miles on the kit and the alignment is great. The ride is stiffer than stock but nothing to worry about, in fact I like it better. Just buy another shocks since the Fabtechs that came with the lift ride like crap (too stiff), I installed a set of Bilsteins 5100 and they ride great.

If you have the money, get the 7" CST, more expensive but great quality.
 

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Okay, the more I drive around and window shop for what I want, the more I realize that every fullsize truck has at least 35" tires. Does it look weird to have 33" tires with a 7" lift? or should I just upgrade to a clean 35" tire? I was told that the Fabtech 7" lift will make it so I can run 35" and if this is true, does anyone know anything about what size wheel would be able to be used with this lift because I know I cant use stocks anymore.... :insane:

Oh, and another thing, how well does a 2wd 5.3L V8 truck handle with 33-35". Will i have any acceleration at all? should I put some upgrades into my rig to get more hp?
 

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With only 7" of lift on a 2wd you will rub 35's :imo I rubbed 35's on 8" rims with my 4wd with 6" of lift cranked up. So i wouldnt do it personally unless you like the sound of your tires hitting your fenders and everyone looking around to see what that god aweful sound is.

I ran a 7" cst and a 3" body it it rode perfect IMO. Better then stock, felt like i just floated, but not so much that it was annoying. I ran the rancho 9000's and set them on 1 for softest ride and loved it. The fabtech shocks are shit, i had them on my 4wd so for sure change them out if you go with fabtech.

To me it sounds like the 7" kit and a set of 305/70/16's with either an 8" rim or even a 10" rim is what you are looking for. And it would for sure not look like a lowrider anymore and would still ride good and still have plenty of power from your 5.3 and really wouldnt need to change gears. Just get a custom PCM or a hypertech to recalibrate for the bigger tires and you would be good to go.

I doubt any of your local shops can come close or beat 4wp's price on the kit. And that is with shipping included. They could throw a whole lift, tire, rim package together and you could tell them that a local shop beat the price they gave you by $150 and you still wouldnt have to have it shipped and I bet that match or beat that price and give you free shipping. You will have to bullshit them, but when you call they DO NOT like getting off the phone without making a sale. So they pretty much do everything they can to beat anyones prices no matter what. So if you find the kit on the net cheaper then they have it right it down. Same goes for tires and rims, find the lowest prices, take like 10 bucks a tire off and see if they will match it. I do it all the time and havnet been turned down yet and have saved anywhere from $50-$200 on stuff.
 

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thanks for the input! so, what kind of body lift should I put on in order to clear the 35's. See, Fabtechs site claims that the 7" lift should be able to clear 35s, but may require light trimming. Should the light trimming do the job, or should I still put a body lift on? If so, whats the cheapest lift I can get that would do the job. Because this is an expensive investment!
 

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It is very expensive. And just gets worse as time goes on :imo

Performance accessories body lift is the only one I would go with. It is complete with everything you need for a NBS truck. I think they go from $250-$270 and you can pick them up nearly anywhere that sells tires, rims and truck accessories
 

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I had a 6" fabtech and a 3" body, and it looked fine with 33x13.50's. I probably could have fit 35's, but the 33's worked for me. Also, with 7" of lift, a 35" tire will rub a little (sharp turns going up driveways, light offroading). It's not necessarily the height that makes the tires rub, the width has a lot to do with it too. If you want 35's, i would run a 16x8" rim to help with clearance.
 

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klemmentine said:
I had a 6" fabtech and a 3" body, and it looked fine with 33x13.50's. I probably could have fit 35's, but the 33's worked for me. Also, with 7" of lift, a 35" tire will rub a little (sharp turns going up driveways, light offroading). It's not necessarily the height that makes the tires rub, the width has a lot to do with it too. If you want 35's, i would run a 16x8" rim to help with clearance.
Thats what the Fab Tech site says to go with which is what I was going to go with. I dont want to wide of rims anyway because I'm not a big fan of how it looks. But yea, I was going to get 16x8 wheels, and 315/75R16's. I figured that this shouldnt rub but I'm starting to get my doubts now. Bah, I'm buying all this stuff tomorrow so I need to know what to get so my mechanic can install it.

Trimming or body kit? Should I just trust Fab Techs listing on their site? Or get smaller tires or get a little body lift? Thanks!
 

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Well, chances are... if you're like most people, you are going to love your truck at first, and then you are going to want to go bigger. :D

I would buy the 35's and run them for a while. You might get a little bit of rubbing here and there, but with 16x8's you really shouldn't be too bad. Later on, if your springs sag or you just want a bigger look, you could always add a 2 or 3" body lift and then you wouldn't have any rubbing for sure.

So... get the 35's and maybe get the body lift later on down the road. Heck, you might clear them good enough to never even need a body lift.
 

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I personally wouldnt run 315's on 8" rims with only the fabtech kit :imo

If you want to do it right with plenty of clearence to use your truck, ie going over curbs, getting off pavement, no just to go mudding but just for anything you need your truck for. I use my truck in construction work I do. I haul things and sometimes just have to go over curbs and so forth to get places, and with tires that rub, it gets worse off pavement. I dont like the sound of rubbing tires at all, weather it affects the tires or not, it rubs and its not good for it :imo 4wd trucks with 6" of lift and 35's on 16x8's rub, i know from personal experience and didnt like it one bit. The stuffed look actually dont look bad to me but performance is the main goal.

So I say go with the body lift and the suspension on 35's with 16x8's and it will look great.
 
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