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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,

Pics of the old girl


IMG_4272.jpg 284DD8ED-C600-4992-BCA4-0BB2B4F1C5D2.jpg

I put a LQ9 6.0 in my truck with a tune/headers/TBSS intake on about a year and a half ago, after the 4.8 had 200k on it, and it was leaking oil from the rear main/oil pan. I figured if I was gonna pull the tranny, I might as well pull the whole engine. I killed my freshly rebuilt 4L60 after a year. Which was expected as I am putting down an (estimated) 400hp/400tq now, and I know that the 4L60 isn't rated for anywhere near that.


Anyway, I put in a "built 700hp" 4L60e and Trucool (Trucool 40k for sale if someone is interested) about 6 months ago from a local shop here in Houston. It died on me 2 weeks ago. To the point that the fluid was running over 200 degrees anytime I drove it, and it was black as night. The truck wouldn't even move to get it on the ramps. I know people have mixed feelings about the 4L60, but I am not a fan. No way I am putting one of those POS's back in my truck. I could have gone 4L80, but I prefer manual.


I decided to swap in a NV3500. I thought about an NV4500 but it has a granny first gear, and it is much more expensive. The NV3500 is a pretty solid transmission, so if I take care of it, it should last just fine.


I use Blackbear, and I emailed them to ask about my tune, and they had me send them my computer back, and they removed the Auto transmission from the tune so I don’t have any check engine lights, and it would be tuned as if I had a 5spd from the start.

Stock transmission cross-member/driveshaft/yoke should work if you have a 4L60e.

Anyway, here are the parts you will need.


  • NV3500 - ordered mine from a place out of Florida that specializes in manual transmissions. Called and talked to the owner, and we went over my needs, and he is shipping me a rebuilt one without a core for $1k.

  • Clutch - Went with OEM. This should hold up fine to the 6.0, if not, I will change it.


  • Flywheel

  • ARP Bolts for the clutch and flywheel (Part Numbers 134-2201 and 330-2802)

  • Shifter - As my transmission didn't come with one. I went with Core shifters, as they seem to be the only aftermarket shorter throw shifter available. It is pricey. ($300) You can go with OEM, but this was my preference. https://core-shifters.com/



  • Clutch Pedal (Part number 15027983)

  • Clutch/brake pedal pad (Part Number 15706041)
    - For my brake pedal after I trim it to the same size of the clutch pedal

  • Shifter boot for the base of the shifter - I have not figured out which direction I am going with this yet, as I have a full NNBS console, and I will be cutting a hole in the top tray above the cupholders and putting a boot there for the shifter to go through.
Progress as of 12/7/17 – So far I have the 4L60 removed, and the clutch pedal installed. Let me say that the pedal is by far the most frustrating part about the install. You basically have to unbolt the entire dash to get the pedal in and mounted up. There is a dimple on the firewall where you need to drill a 2.5 inch hole and make sure it is centered on this dimple. If you have a drill and a 2.5 inch hole saw, you can drill it from the engine bay easily with a little maneuvering around the brake booster. There is a metal bracket with two holes in it where the nuts would go if I had a manual from the factory. I just made a nut plate and stuck it behind the bracket to mount the pedal to.

Now here comes the frustrating part – Getting the pedal in place. Instructions say most of the dash has to be unbolted in order to get the pedal in. I didn’t want to do this, so I trimmed the clutch pedal assy. down. The areas circled in red I trimmed off with a Dremel. These areas don’t affect the function of the pedal, nor it’s strength. (Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, and I do not know what i am talking about. If for some reason it breaks, I’ll pony up $70 for a new pedal and replace it. I have two vehicles, so it being down for a few days is no big deal.) After all this trimming and about 3 hours twisting around under the dash, and getting millions of tiny cuts on my hands from the dash supports that are apparently made out of razor blades, I finally got it installed in the right position. This is why it is very important that your 2.5 inch hole is perfectly centered on the dimple, otherwise the bolt holes wont line up.
Untitled.jpg



I will update with pics and progress as I get things done. Will be installing the flywheel/clutch this afternoon or tomorrow. Feel free to correct me on anything you may see wrong, or ask any questions you may have.
 

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Hey Guys,

Pics of the old girl


View attachment 804824 View attachment 804823

I put a LQ9 6.0 in my truck with a tune/headers/TBSS intake on about a year and a half ago, after the 4.8 had 200k on it, and it was leaking oil from the rear main/oil pan. I figured if I was gonna pull the tranny, I might as well pull the whole engine. I killed my freshly rebuilt 4L60 after a year. Which was expected as I am putting down an (estimated) 400hp/400tq now, and I know that the 4L60 isn't rated for anywhere near that.


Anyway, I put in a "built 700hp" 4L60e and Trucool (Trucool 40k for sale if someone is interested) about 6 months ago from a local shop here in Houston. It died on me 2 weeks ago. To the point that the fluid was running over 200 degrees anytime I drove it, and it was black as night. The truck wouldn't even move to get it on the ramps. I know people have mixed feelings about the 4L60, but I am not a fan. No way I am putting one of those POS's back in my truck. I could have gone 4L80, but I prefer manual.


I decided to swap in a NV3500. I thought about an NV4500 but it has a granny first gear, and it is much more expensive. The NV3500 is a pretty solid transmission, so if I take care of it, it should last just fine.


I use Blackbear, and I emailed them to ask about my tune, and they had me send them my computer back, and they removed the Auto transmission from the tune so I don’t have any check engine lights, and it would be tuned as if I had a 5spd from the start.

Stock transmission cross-member/driveshaft/yoke should work if you have a 4L60e.

Anyway, here are the parts you will need.


  • NV3500 - ordered mine from a place out of Florida that specializes in manual transmissions. Called and talked to the owner, and we went over my needs, and he is shipping me a rebuilt one without a core for $1k.

  • Clutch - Went with OEM. This should hold up fine to the 6.0, if not, I will change it.


  • Flywheel

  • ARP Bolts for the clutch and flywheel (Part Numbers 134-2201 and 330-2802)

  • Shifter - As my transmission didn't come with one. I went with Core shifters, as they seem to be the only aftermarket shorter throw shifter available. It is pricey. ($300) You can go with OEM, but this was my preference. https://core-shifters.com/



  • Clutch Pedal (Part number 15027983)

  • Clutch/brake pedal pad (Part Number 15706041)
    - For my brake pedal after I trim it to the same size of the clutch pedal

  • Shifter boot for the base of the shifter - I have not figured out which direction I am going with this yet, as I have a full NNBS console, and I will be cutting a hole in the top tray above the cupholders and putting a boot there for the shifter to go through.
Progress as of 12/7/17 – So far I have the 4L60 removed, and the clutch pedal installed. Let me say that the pedal is by far the most frustrating part about the install. You basically have to unbolt the entire dash to get the pedal in and mounted up. There is a dimple on the firewall where you need to drill a 2.5 inch hole and make sure it is centered on this dimple. If you have a drill and a 2.5 inch hole saw, you can drill it from the engine bay easily with a little maneuvering around the brake booster. There is a metal bracket with two holes in it where the nuts would go if I had a manual from the factory. I just made a nut plate and stuck it behind the bracket to mount the pedal to.

Now here comes the frustrating part – Getting the pedal in place. Instructions say most of the dash has to be unbolted in order to get the pedal in. I didn’t want to do this, so I trimmed the clutch pedal assy. down. The areas circled in red I trimmed off with a Dremel. These areas don’t affect the function of the pedal, nor it’s strength. (Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, and I do not know what i am talking about. If for some reason it breaks, I’ll pony up $70 for a new pedal and replace it. I have two vehicles, so it being down for a few days is no big deal.) After all this trimming and about 3 hours twisting around under the dash, and getting millions of tiny cuts on my hands from the dash supports that are apparently made out of razor blades, I finally got it installed in the right position. This is why it is very important that your 2.5 inch hole is perfectly centered on the dimple, otherwise the bolt holes wont line up.
View attachment 804820



I will update with pics and progress as I get things done. Will be installing the flywheel/clutch this afternoon or tomorrow. Feel free to correct me on anything you may see wrong, or ask any questions you may have.
How is it going with the swap? Lots of great detailed info.
I have a 97 GMC 2 door Yukon that I am considering swapping to the NV3500 and would like to know what dealer in Florida sold you a NV3500 for $1000 without a core.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Just an update. Got the truck up and running and after a few quirks, I got it running good.

Main problem I had was that the driveshaft was too short, so I ordered a driveshaft from a NNBS ECSB with a 6 speed. It’s slightly longer so it fit perfect. I just had to change the rear u joint.


I cut a hole in the top of my cup holder tray in my NNBS console and made a shifter boot.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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How do you like that shifter from core? I plan on buying one pretty soon. How long was the wait? I know they are built to order.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How do you like that shifter from core? I plan on buying one pretty soon. How long was the wait? I know they are built to order.
It's pretty great. A little notchy, but easy to shift. I can't compare it to stock though because I never had a stock one.

It took about 2 weeks, but since I didn't have a transmission to put it on yet, this didn't bother me.
 

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Awesome, 1 more overtime and I should be able to order one. Did you order the 1 inch lower height, or 3 inches taller??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awesome, 1 more overtime and I should be able to order one. Did you order the 1 inch lower height, or 3 inches taller??
1 inch lower I believe. The 3 inches taller is only for body lift. If you don't have one, the shifter will hit the dash
 

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Ah, yea you are right. It's the 1 inch higher then stock i was looking at. Do you have to lean forward at all to grab it? When I first emailed them, the guy said the shorter one was kinda a pain in butt to reach for.. I'm not very tall, so I sit closer to the wheel
 

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Hey Guys,

Pics of the old girl


View attachment 804824 View attachment 804823

I put a LQ9 6.0 in my truck with a tune/headers/TBSS intake on about a year and a half ago, after the 4.8 had 200k on it, and it was leaking oil from the rear main/oil pan. I figured if I was gonna pull the tranny, I might as well pull the whole engine. I killed my freshly rebuilt 4L60 after a year. Which was expected as I am putting down an (estimated) 400hp/400tq now, and I know that the 4L60 isn't rated for anywhere near that.


Anyway, I put in a "built 700hp" 4L60e and Trucool (Trucool 40k for sale if someone is interested) about 6 months ago from a local shop here in Houston. It died on me 2 weeks ago. To the point that the fluid was running over 200 degrees anytime I drove it, and it was black as night. The truck wouldn't even move to get it on the ramps. I know people have mixed feelings about the 4L60, but I am not a fan. No way I am putting one of those POS's back in my truck. I could have gone 4L80, but I prefer manual.


I decided to swap in a NV3500. I thought about an NV4500 but it has a granny first gear, and it is much more expensive. The NV3500 is a pretty solid transmission, so if I take care of it, it should last just fine.


I use Blackbear, and I emailed them to ask about my tune, and they had me send them my computer back, and they removed the Auto transmission from the tune so I don’t have any check engine lights, and it would be tuned as if I had a 5spd from the start.

Stock transmission cross-member/driveshaft/yoke should work if you have a 4L60e.

Anyway, here are the parts you will need.


  • NV3500 - ordered mine from a place out of Florida that specializes in manual transmissions. Called and talked to the owner, and we went over my needs, and he is shipping me a rebuilt one without a core for $1k.

  • Clutch - Went with OEM. This should hold up fine to the 6.0, if not, I will change it.


  • Flywheel

  • ARP Bolts for the clutch and flywheel (Part Numbers 134-2201 and 330-2802)

  • Shifter - As my transmission didn't come with one. I went with Core shifters, as they seem to be the only aftermarket shorter throw shifter available. It is pricey. ($300) You can go with OEM, but this was my preference. Welcome to Core Shifters!



  • Clutch Pedal (Part number 15027983)

  • Clutch/brake pedal pad (Part Number 15706041)
    - For my brake pedal after I trim it to the same size of the clutch pedal

  • Shifter boot for the base of the shifter - I have not figured out which direction I am going with this yet, as I have a full NNBS console, and I will be cutting a hole in the top tray above the cupholders and putting a boot there for the shifter to go through.
Progress as of 12/7/17 – So far I have the 4L60 removed, and the clutch pedal installed. Let me say that the pedal is by far the most frustrating part about the install. You basically have to unbolt the entire dash to get the pedal in and mounted up. There is a dimple on the firewall where you need to drill a 2.5 inch hole and make sure it is centered on this dimple. If you have a drill and a 2.5 inch hole saw, you can drill it from the engine bay easily with a little maneuvering around the brake booster. There is a metal bracket with two holes in it where the nuts would go if I had a manual from the factory. I just made a nut plate and stuck it behind the bracket to mount the pedal to.

Now here comes the frustrating part – Getting the pedal in place. Instructions say most of the dash has to be unbolted in order to get the pedal in. I didn’t want to do this, so I trimmed the clutch pedal assy. down. The areas circled in red I trimmed off with a Dremel. These areas don’t affect the function of the pedal, nor it’s strength. (Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, and I do not know what i am talking about. If for some reason it breaks, I’ll pony up $70 for a new pedal and replace it. I have two vehicles, so it being down for a few days is no big deal.) After all this trimming and about 3 hours twisting around under the dash, and getting millions of tiny cuts on my hands from the dash supports that are apparently made out of razor blades, I finally got it installed in the right position. This is why it is very important that your 2.5 inch hole is perfectly centered on the dimple, otherwise the bolt holes wont line up.
View attachment 804820



I will update with pics and progress as I get things done. Will be installing the flywheel/clutch this afternoon or tomorrow. Feel free to correct me on anything you may see wrong, or ask any questions you may have.
This has help me out A lot as I’m starting my swap on my 2003 Chevy do you know if 4l60e Transfer case will bolt up to a nv3500
 
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