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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Planning on removing a noisy 5.3. Probably a lifter but with 170m on it just going to replace it with a GM crate motor. This thing looks to be jammed pretty tight to the firewall. Is it going to be easier to pull the engine and trans together or just pull the engine. 2013 Sierra. 6l80e trans I believe.
 

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So you’re putting in a “rebuilt” motor with the same problematic lifters? You’re gonna be in for a treat.

6l80e is a unit, gonna have to drop every crossmember under, and pull the front cap. Or rack the cab.

Personally I’d just change the terrible lifter and camshaft. Makes a lot more sense then putting in a stock replacement that will have the same sound and bad performance.
 
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So you’re putting in a “rebuilt” motor with the same problematic lifters? You’re gonna be in for a treat.

6l80e is a unit, gonna have to drop every crossmember under, and pull the front cap. Or rack the cab.

Personally I’d just change the terrible lifter and camshaft. Makes a lot more sense then putting in a stock replacement that will have the same sound and bad performance.
The noisy lifter just started. I am told this is a "kind of common thing" for this engine.
I told the guy that if he wants to do just cam and lifters to go to the speed shop next door. I guess I don't see a new valve drive on an older engine. I don't want to be married to this thing.
I am told that the lifters are "burried in the block" IE: the heads need to come off to change. Not to argue with your reply, I thank you for it. But for the money, I can get the whole engine with a 3yr/100,000mi warranty, for not a lot more than just doing the cam and lifters.
I am just wondering if the engine comes out easier with the trans on it or off. I just did the trans only on my s10 blazer and the trans alignment back to the engine, along with the upper bell housing bolts were a treat.
 

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The noisy lifter just started. I am told this is a "kind of common thing" for this engine.
I told the guy that if he wants to do just cam and lifters to go to the speed shop next door. I guess I don't see a new valve drive on an older engine. I don't want to be married to this thing.
I am told that the lifters are "burried in the block" IE: the heads need to come off to change. Not to argue with your reply, I thank you for it. But for the money, I can get the whole engine with a 3yr/100,000mi warranty, for not a lot more than just doing the cam and lifters.
I am just wondering if the engine comes out easier with the trans on it or off. I just did the trans only on my s10 blazer and the trans alignment back to the engine, along with the upper bell housing bolts were a treat.
You’re forgetting the DOD/AFM. They all fail, they all tap. But the bottom end doesn’t give. Hence the love for the LS.

I charge $1800-2200 for DOD/top end build, and Iv never had a come back. Chevrolet preformance lifters, no “ls7” bullshit, choice of cam, new ported oil pump, pick up tube, heads re worked, all new gaskets minus rear main, and alll painted or polished covers.

I think it’s $3800 at orlieys for a “new” long block 5.3 here. Requardless your gonna be pumped to see your $4k crate motor has already been rebuild 20 times. But it has a warranty.
 
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