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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys I'm new here and decided a nice way to introduce myself is to show you the project I've been working on. Its taking longer than I thought but things got out of hand with the mods.

Here is what I started with.

1958 Chevy Big Window I only bought it for the cab. I bought it from a guy that kept it

in a trailer park.



So I’ll start with the frame I install a Mustang II, 4 link and c-notched the rear of the frame.





I made a frame rotisserie out of two engine stands to get the frame ready for paint.





 

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8.5 Chevy Rearend Narrowed to 58 inches (mounting point to mounting point) with moser housing ends and axles.













I had to modify the caliper bracket and the axles retainer to install my disc brakes. Here is what I came up with.





The rearend completed . I cut those micky mouse ears off the rearend to make it clear the bed floor and it also looks better.

 

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There was extensive rust damage on this cab but I wanted a big window cab and I had to have it.lol I should have waited because I ended up building a cab.lol I had to replace both cab corners, the steps and rockers, floors, and the roof.

Cab corners replaced





Steps replaced







Floor replaced









Roof replaced.









Door Repair









 

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Discussion Starter #5
58 Fender repair













After all this work I knew what I really wanted was a 55-56 truck. I have a 55 210 and I always wanted twins.lol





I decided to change the front clip to a 55. How it came about was a friend challenged me to fix some terrible 55 fenders and they came out nice so I said why not.

55 Fenders















 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mini tubs













Shaved door hands and bearclaws latches installed in reverse because I want the solenoid in the cab corner instead of at the bottom of the door.













7-55 1st Series Chevy Truck Battery access door.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
A couple of mock up pics.















Installed the No Limit Flip Hood Kit









Anyway guys here is the boring stuff I've been working on but you said you wanted pics. I had to add some round tubing to the front the door to get it right. I think it will look decent once I grind down the welds and make it flow on the edge. Man the door fitment on these things leaves much to be desired.







 

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Discussion Starter #11
I thought since I rounded the doors in the front and shaved the drip rails I mightiest well go all the way and round the rear of the doors.









I welded up the seam in this area. I then used Duraglass over the welds to smooth everything out.





A little primer and I like it much better than that unfinished look that came from the factory.



Its getting there I guess I'll keep chipping away at it inch by inch.



This was my first time using this product, a buddy of mine told me to try it. I decided to try it on my dash to fill some minor imperfections. I liked it so much I did the roof also.











 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can never have enough good fenders. I had a mess up fender laying around and a new repoped fender that someone gave me. The repop fender fitment was horrible so I decided to use it as a patch panel. I have a passenger fender that I already primed but when I checked the fitment I like the mess up fender a little better. So I decided to fix the fender and use which ever one I like the best when I put the truck back together. Or I just used it as an excuse to weld something together.lol











This is what is left of a new fender that I used for patch panels because the fitment was so bad. I used the rear for another fender for a buddy. It still has some use so I will not throw it out. It still has a good brace, eyebrow, and front and top panel. Somebody may need a piece of it so I will keep it. I know too many hotrodders to throw it out. I don't know about the other new fenders, but the fitment for this one was garbage.



Here is the fender after metal finishing.



Fenders in primer, still needs to be blocked but they are coming along.



 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the sectioned hood in primer. It was a lot of hammer and dolly work but here it is.

Oh yeah I had to make a brace for the sectioned hood. I made it out of 1 inch wide and 1/4 thick flat stock. Making it flow with the radius of the side of the hood took some thought but it came out decent.















Well I decided to start getting the rear fenders ready for primer. I wanted to use these for the truck because they were giving to me by a buddy who bought new ones and he has passed away (He knew they were rough but did not want to throw them away). So I wanted something of his on the truck, so I went to through the trouble of saving them. My question is do you know what evils lives under your primer.

Bondo, bondo, bondo.





This is what was under all that bondo



This is what I had to cut away. Yikes





Yeah thats another fender in that background covered in bondo also.lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had some front fenders that I've been gutting that provided the majority of the patch panel. A little tweaking and they worked fine. That little rust spot that was left I just formed my hand.



I used a 3/32 2% ceriated tungsten and 1/16 filler rod and tried to keep the smallest HAZ I could. Tig welding sheetmetal is great, you can see how low the bead profile is and some of the metal finishing I started. Man you can hammer and dolly that HAZ to your hearts desire.







And here it is, almost ready for primer a little more welding and hammer and dolly work to do and very little filler will be needed now.lol





Over the years these trucks were really used and used hard.lol Man this fender has dents and digs all along the top area. I used a big red marker to color in the top which I will block sand to see the highs and lows.



Weapons of choice



I also made this slapper and find it does a great job.



On the back side you must choose a dolly that is very close to the contour of the sheet metal.



After sanding here is what I had



After the first use of my slapper and dolly I sanded again and here what I have. As you can see the low area is getting smaller. Sanding between hammer and dolly work shows me were I need to concentrate.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Worked some more and sanded and had this.



Here what I accomplished the first day, still a lot of work to do but a fender that most would have trashed or covered with way too much filler will be used with very little filler when done. After I remove all the major of the dents I will red marker again and try to fix all the imperfections. All the red markets that are left need to be worked but as you can see there is a world of difference.



It just takes patience and work.

Undercoated the bottom of the cab with a bedliner kit. I will also be spraying it on the interior floor.





I welded up all the interior seams and grind them smooth to give it that smooth and finished look that was lacking from the factory. I got it in primer and now it needs to be blocked sanded. I'm happy with the look so far. It was a lot of work but I've been told many times that the devil is in the details.













I mocked up the hydroboost unit and plumbed the brake lines.









I know its over kill but I base coat cleared the gas tank just because. No other reason.



 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here is the tank installed between the frame rails.





Corvette filter/regulator installed







Modified the tank a little for the in-tank fuel pump and lines.



I knew I had to raise my bed floor 2 inches due to my c-notches. I was looking in metal yard for some scrape tubing and I could not find anything I liked, I decided to make my own 2 inch spacers. I try to keep things simple it makes life easier, but of course I will have to move the angle strips on the bed up 2 inches so that bed sits in the same spot as factory.

I will use the bolt to hold the washers in place and then weld it together.





Here is one of the spacers completed. I will need six of them for the three cross sills.



I welded the spacers to the frame.





Just checking cross sill bolt alignment.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finished and repainted.



Before I mount the bed I have to move the angle strips up two inches and bed should fit like factory but the floor will be two inches higher.

Here is the panel with wheels I bought for the truck just to try to get an idea. The truck will have no emblems and the only chrome will be the bumpers.
So I wanted to see the color against the polished aluminum wheels.





Shifter



Seats mock up.



The firewall is looking pretty good.


 

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Discussion Starter #18
More smoothing seams.











Well I finally got some color on the truck, well the interior. I could not wait to see want the color would look like so
I just thought I'd shoot the interior just to see if I really liked it.























 

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Discussion Starter #19
I could not help myself.lol I always wanted the progressive automotive x member/transmission mount but put it off due to cost. But it keep calling me so I broke down and bought it. Well anyway here it is.



As shipped





Welded together and cut down for installation





Installed. Removing the factory crossmembers were a lot of work but I like this better.



The Transmission mount is just sitting there in this pic, it will not be welded in until engine and trans mockup.



I also decided to fab up a tubular cross member to replace the factory one.











The set back of installing the x member means I can no longer use the factory brake assembly.
So here is my brake bracket I fabricated. As you can see I also had to notch the frame to have clearance for the Hydroboost unit.









 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I already modified the panel assembly, all that is required is a push rod extension but I think I better wait until the cab is back on to mock it up so that I know the brake is in the right spot.

Here is the piece I fabricated for the pedal assembly.



After a lot of measuring here it is tacked in place. I'm going to leave it tacked until the cab is back on the frame, because I may have to move it a little bit.



Here is the pedal installed. Yes the push rod connection clears the bottom tube by about 1/2 inch. As you can see I need to make or purchase a longer push rod extension.



Well I got the frame repainted.



Here is the push rod connection to the brake pedal I had to fab up the mount for the brake pedal.





 
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