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Discussion Starter #1
Just traded my 98 XJ for an 86 K10. Its my first truck so there's a lot that needs work but I'm up for it.
current truck info:
'86 diesel cab
'80s military bed that had some sort of box on it (strange 3/4"ish holes on the sides of the bed)
'70's frame
350 backed by a sm465 w/205 t-case. motor has an edelbrock carb and an aluminum intake of some sort.
half ton heavy axles, semi-float 14bolt rear.
6" lift w/ shackle drop and blocks in rear
Only rust on truck is a rear frame crossmember and passenger side floor is gone just inside the rockers
Truck is rattle canned black and lime green(needs to change but not very high priority)
My plan is to replace the bed to get rid of the military holes, fix the rust, and make it a good quality daily driver/occasional mud truck on 35's.( Right now is on bald 265's and 17" pro comp 6001 chrome rims, which I'm looking to sell the set for ~$600)
Pics will come later today or tomorrow. Just replaced the door locks, put a gps speedo in for more accuracy, and ordered a drop drag link for the steering since I didn't want to mess with the steering arm. Looking for cheap A/T 35's and 15in rims. Any advice is welcome for anything.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A few pics of what my family is already calling "The Beast"...




 

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So the headlights went out and when I looked under the dash to see what was going on I realized theres around 2 full harnesses up there... so thursday will be a full dash removal and rewire :mad: in any case I can drive it around now since I got the drop drag link in. I also ordered a drop pitman arm. with any luck it'll be dead nuts on now and I'll be able to actually make it into a parking space with less than a 20 point turn.:crazy: I was told by a friend of a friend that it wont clear 35's the way it sits but I think it'll look to small with 33's... Any thoughts from the pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got the pitman arm on last night and wow what a difference it made. I can now make it around my court. Will post pics of all the steering later tonight most likely. So I know I said it was a 6" lift but after looking around it seems like it's more like between 4 and 5 inches. I know that you can run 35's with some trimming with 4" but I'm not going to trim so I would just run more around a 33 on some stock wheels someone is giving me(I'm going back to stock 15" rims regardless). Anyone got any thoughts as to whether I should just go ahead and try 35's or...?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was looking all I could find were some intercos and reviews said they barely last for street driving. Other than that I couldnt find many 305/75r15s either. That is a 34ish right?
 

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80s Chevys like yours can fit 33s stock. You should have no problem clearing 35s. If you trimmed the bottom rear of the front fenders you could probably get 37s under it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
finally got the pictures of the steering parts...


put in a new stereo today... found out I need new u bolts on the front axle so theres a trip to get them custom made, along with new center pins for the leaf pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just put a new master cylinder on since it was leaking... now I need to try and figure out why it's coughing so bad before it warms up all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
New master made such a difference! Now I just need to get the U-bolts after class and the steering will be all buttoned up... I hope. Also, decided on sticking with 33's to maintain driveability and to keep cost down. Right around a grand for 33x12.50r15 bfg a/t's and 15x8 cragar d windows. not to bad plus I will sell the pro comps to recoup some money.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Changed the back glass last night... learned the hard way to be patient while removing the old glass...

I gotta say though that after I cleaned the seal for an hour to get the glass pieces out, it wasn't bad to get in with the rope trick and I LOVE the slider :head3:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Decided today was a good day to mess with the mixture on the carb. Figured out its an edelbrock 1406. Leaned it out a decent bit and so far it seems to be running better, but the true test to see if it made a difference will be tomorrow morning, when its cold and has been sitting.
 

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Ok so it's been a while since I posted. Ive done a decent bit to the truck...
33x12.50 bfg A/T's on cragar d windows
sunpro tach
valve cover gaskets
timing- completely got rid of the backfiring issue since it was at 0* advance. bought a light, got it set at 12* advance and she purrs like a kitten.
set the carb up with the tach.
new "heavy duty" clutch from o'riellys which so far i'm very happy with especially at only $200!
found out that the trans and t-case were full of ATF... went ahead and put in some 80-90w when I did the clutch and what a difference! she shifts like a dream
found out I have mismatched gears :( 3.08's in the 10 bolt up front and 3.42's in the 14 bolt sf rear. Good thing I didn't just throw in the front shaft! Ordering 3.42's for the front tomorrow so I can get 4x4 before its to late to hit some trails.
One question, where do I get the speedo gears for the transfer case so the speedo is correct. At the moment, I'm using a gps speedo since the cable was broke. I know the current part is factory but I was told to get a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I did some thinking and have some questions. Right now I feel like this truck has no umph at all. It's got an edelbrock 1406 carb and preformer intake. I plan to get headers around tax return time along with a single 3" flowmaster 40 series. I will also be putting in new spark plugs and wires along with a basic carb rebuild. Other than what I said I have no clue whats in the motor. Should these mods give it enough of a power increase to be able to feel? Or should I ad a small cam in as well? The purpose of the truck is to be reliable and affordable, but hold its own offroad. I will note that at the moment one of the exhaust donuts rusted out and is basically gone right now. Current exhaust setup is true dual 2.5" glasspacks.
 
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