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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, the time has come.

As I have collected the parts and done a little bit of work, I figured I'd start to document my progress in swapping my 700R4 out for a NV4500.

What $400 and 3 hours of time got me.






And all the other stuff that makes the conversion work




After doing a little more research and figuring out what parts I need, I ordered a bunch of other stuff.

Jegs Flywheel (the original was a big block flywheel)


Hays Super truck Clutch



Clutch Fork Ball Stud (left old - right new)


Flywheel key and Clutch fork bushing


New input shaft pilot bearing and thrust bearing


Flywheel dust sheild


Trans-transfercase gasket.


Clutch Pedal Bracket


Cruise control kill switch


Clutch pedal spring


New shift tower boot


And 4 quarts of Amsoil MTG GL-4 fluid.
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I started by checking everything out. The NV4500 is a relatively simple transmission, and is a top-loader style. – this means we can pull the top off and take a peek inside.




Everything looks pretty good inside so far. The only real thing I noticed is the input shaft has a little play in it (which is why I replaced the pilot and thrust bearings for it).



My NV4500 had a magnet in the bottom center of the case, held in by a little clip. I of course pulled it out to find the normal grey sludge they collect. I also cleaned everything inside and out.




Also got the bellhousing and clutch fork all cleaned up


Now I have a transmission temp gauge in my truck already wired to the 700R4. While the NV4500 has no provision for a temperature sender (without buying aftermarket PTO coolers) I wanted to keep it. Upon researching the transmission, I had found that early versions had a drain plug located below the fill plug. I’m only hypothesizing here, but I think it was left out because the lower PTO bolts make an excellent drain by themselves, however the locating in the case still has a thicker walled area where the plug used to be.

So a little help from my friend BV


away with the drill and tap I went.




Putting things back together with some ultragrey.


Next up is a coat of paint on the castiron portion of the case, which will be happening this weekend. Then the truck is getting loaded up and I’m heading home, installing everything next week.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They were most comming in truck sover 8,600 GVWR. Mine came from a 94 Silverado K2500 w/ a 454.

Gm started using the NV4500 in 92. The 92-94 used a different shift tower and had a lower 1st & reverse gear (6.34 vs 5.61) than the later style and dodge versions.

The dodge and GM versions have different bolt patterns and input shafts as well.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i want that dog lol
Unfortunatly he isn't going to be sticking around. My 3-yr old Blacklab/boxer mix HATES him, to the point of wanting to kill the puppy. Luckily enough another friend of mine was also looking at dogs, so he at least has a good home, plus I'll still get to see him.

Fuck...this is just fueling the edge I have on putting a stick in my truck


Nice worth thus far
Thanks. And yes, do put a stick in your truck.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Damnit, how much did it run you? I've been looking for a NV4500/454 combo from a 4wd to mate up to my 205 and swap into my 78.
$400 for everything I took. Guy wanted another $300 for the motor but I didn't have the $$$ now plus the motor looksed like it had lived a better life.
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, the guy honestly didn't know what he had. He told me the truck was a 93 Silverado w/ 350 & 5-speed and it had a bent frame and cracked axle. So I was expecting it to be munched in the front, but when we get there it was a 94 K2500 454/ NV4500. The front axle grenaded itself, and the "bent frame" was actually a bad motor mount. In all reality he could have replaced the motor mount and front diff for a few hundred $......

He said make an offer, so I did. NV4500s around here go for at least $800 by themselves, I probably could sell the setup for $1,500 easy.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, a quick update.

I got the cast portion of the trans painted up black, and spent some more time with the wire wheel and cleaned up the outside of the bellhousing. I also attached the clutch fork to the new ballstud and threw the flywheel dust shield on for ease of transport.





I also ordered a DEI 689M remote start module for manual transmissions. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WB4NN2/ref=ox_ya_oh_product Basically how it works is when exiting the truck, you remote start it while running, set the parking brake and then lock the doors on the outside. The truck turns off (in neutral obviously) and will be able to remote start unless the sequence is broke (I.E. door opening). I just couldn't give up remote start, since i've had it for over 6 years now.

And now that I Got all the stuff out of my garage and into the pickup, I'll be heading to the parents place tomorrow to start the project, so check back for updates! The yellow truck is going away in storage. Just for the record, a FSC fits through a 7' wide garage door, but just barely. I've never been so damn nervous about parking something.... but it fits. :D


 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, here is another update. Last night I pulled the drivelines, T-case and crossmembers, then this morning finished pulling the transmission. While I was doing that Dad took and swapped the input shafts between the t-cases and got them back together.

Last of the 700R4 under the truck


NP241 guts



NV4500 vs. 700R4. Finally with both out of the truck I could measure and verify the lengths of each. The NV4500 is 1/8" longer than my 700R4.



With all that out of the way, I got started on the interior. Drilled the holes for the clutch master cylinder. The large center bore is a 1 3/8" diameter (coincedently the same size as my cab light holes).


Then lots of interior comes out. I cleared a few spots off of the sheetmetal to weld the clutch pedal support in, then bolted the clutch pedal in.




While I was doing this, Dad put the flywheel and clutch together under the truck.


A quick poser shot of the NV4500/NP241 combo. Lots of New Venture parts here.


So, all that is left now is to wire up the clutch pedal misc and put the interior back together, cut a hole in the floor and put the trans in the truck. Should be tearing through the gears by tomorrow. :D
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks man

------------------------

Another quick update. Finally got done screwing around with the clutch bracket. I think I had that thing in and out of there 4-5 times now, figuring out what side the wires go on and such. What a PITA. Then I got the hydraulic line routed and bolted the clutch pedal assembly in.


Then I was off to wiring mania for about the last 5 hours. I had to wire up the clutch cruise control kill, clutch pedal safety start switch, and the backup light switch. I also cleaned up a few other connections while the dash was down. This recent find on ebay was about the most invaluable thing in this entire swap; I don't know how i lived with out it.


The wiring itself wasn't horrible and didn't take too long; making sure all the wiring was out of the way of the pedal did. Once that was done I also swapped the brake pedal, and put the dash up. Now I have me some pedals.




Tomorrow the floor is getting cut, then the interior can be put back together. The only wiring left now is to hook up the reverse lights plug and my trans temp sensor, but that will happen when the trans is in the truck so I know how long to make them.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Actually, I did have to take the dash down because my truck didn't have the pedal brace that is welded next to the column. I found the part number for the mount and we had to weld it in, then bolt the pedal in. Having the dash down also made the wiring and brake pedal swap easier.

---------------------------

Well, it's in. Now it's time for Turkey dinner. Still have a few things left to do, update later.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hmm. Well that is something new to me. My truck is a 95, and my clutch pedal assy just bolted right in. Also, I was able to use the existing brake pedal. The NV4500 > 4L60E for sure.
Yeah, I'm wondering if they started to put those in later on as a cost saving measure, since it would be easier to run every truck with than only some. Who knows. As far as the brake pedal, i didn't want to have the large automatic pedal (wanted it to look factory). You could cut your pedal and get the smaller pad if you ever wanted to. And yes, NV4500 >>>>>> 700R4 as well.

Love it!!
cool swap dude let us know how it turned out
Thanks guys!

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Well, here is the update from today. We got the trans shift linkage all worked up. For those who have asked how my linkage is, here is the best picture ever: outside of the truck. Basically all that is done is to move the arm over via a longer pivot point. It has a stepped portion to clear the trans as well. Obviously the pass side has to be supported of the trans.



I got the floor cut for the shifter, as well as an additional hole to make the install MUCH easier. When we too the trans from the parts rig the shift tower was so tall that we kept getting hung up on the trans tunnel, and ended up just pulling the sheetmetal back. I decided then I'd make another hole and build a screw on cover for it, that way the trans can slide right in.



Then we got the trans on a chunk of wood and strapped it to the floor jack. Don't want 200lbs of cast iron falling on you.


After it's in. :big_banana_Dance:



While dad put the drivelines and stuff back, I worked on the interior side of things. Once the trans was in place I located the shifter trim ring, drilled the holes and bolted it together. After everything fit, I put the carpet back and started the re-assembly of everything else: Trim, Dash, I/P, seat, etc.




This is what the interior now looks like with two sticks :crazy: Notice the new (and much more awkward and annoying) location of the cupholders.



Then, the test drive. First problem I encountered was the speedo/cruise not working and my brake warning light was stuck on. After about and hour of thinking, switching the speed sensor, etc, I realized the RWAL (rear wheel antilock) and speedo share a fuse. While I was wrestling the wiring around I must have dislodged it...... :flame: But yeah, whats a project without a challenge. So after that, on to screwing around in it. Oh it's fun. Way too fun. Trans shifts great, syncros work flawlessly, etc. 1st gear is a beast, particularly in low range. I can't want to go play offroad. I also got it up to freeway speeds, also worked great. It's definatly noticable there is a manual down there, but only if your actually paying attention to it. After driving around for about 45mins the trans was up around 140 degrees if anyone was wondering.

All in all, everything works great, and the swap went very smoothly (no trips to the part store, nothing broken, etc). I'll be driving it around some more tomorrow, can't wait. As of now, the only thing left to give away this truck was originally an automatic is the steering column, but that will be changed eventually.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Your inclinometer is awesome

Awesome that its working great
Looks clean man, nice job.

Thanks!

lol, it's gotta be outta a jap truck, I snagged one from the junkyard 10 years ago.


Thanks for the detail in the swap. I was just telling the GF yesterday as we drove the Blazer to my parents that w/160K my 4L60E has a short life left and want to do a swap.

This will come in handy. I'll start gathering parts now, wanna make a checklist for us?
The clinomemter is out of a Nissan Terrano (j-spec pathfinder). Well, most of what you need is on the first pages, but I can make a detailed part list (including a few part numbers) once I'm back at my house next week.

Mine swap looks great to be honest. However, as far as looking factory, one look at the dash or column will tell that an auto came in the truck. Ah well. Go do some granny launches now. Those are fun!
Yeah, eventually I'll ditch the column. As far as my dash goes, the 88-94 style used a black blockout plate that fits in place of the PRND321 indicator, as opposed to the entirely different cluster 95-98 trucks use. And yes, granny low makes tire spin easy.

Looks good dude!

Never really got into manuals. ive driven jeeps and old ford grain trucks manual...but those arent too fun!
OLD truck transmission are much different than this one. You can defintaley tell it's a big 1-ton transmission (not super fast shifting) but it's not like the old SM465s and old ford granny lows in the 60-70s.

Is that thing on top of the dash stock. It looks like it does tilt, lean and some gauge. What gauge?
As I said above, it's from a Nissan Terrano (j-spec pathfinder). It fits the dash very well. They come with the clinometer and an altimeter, however i removed the altimeter and installed a transmission temp gauge in place of it.

The only manuals that Ive driven that were fun are T56s. Truck manuals are like rowing a boat.[/QUOTE]

You know, i've driven quite a few manuals, and this is far changed from the SM465. The throw isn't huge, but it's definatley not a T56. It's about the right combination for the feel of my truck, since it's not much of a sports truck anyway.
 

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02GMCtruck
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1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks man, I enjoyed the swap. I really like figuring all these things out and working with my Dad on them.
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well, it made it across the state, no problems. Got about the same fuel mileage. Trans ran 150 degrees the entire time, which is good. There is a little gear noise at highway speeds, but i've heard that the non-OEM gear lube may do that. I also had to shim my starter out a little more to quiet it up; there is apparently a different starter for the manual trans, although mine seems to work just fine now.
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I starred this email, I'll join up that forum I have 5-6 how to threads on my 88 that would definatly contribute over there.
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Well, just a little update on the trans. Last week I bought one of the last pieces, the sound isolator for the shift boot. They PN for the 92-94 style trans was no longer available so I grabbed the 95+ style and cut some of it to fit my shift tower. Basically it's a 1/2" thick foam block that goes under the shift boot. It made a huge difference in the sound comming from the trans area (I could hear road noise and gears quite noticably, which isn't surprising since the shift boot isn't very thick).

The trans has been working perfectly, and now has over 2,000 miles on it and has been across the state 4 times. Running it at highway speeds yields a consistant temp of 150 degrees. I'm also happy with my clutch choice, as it works very well and is actually quite easy to drive.

Next week I'll be taking the truck out wheelin with a few friends, so it'll be the first trip out with the manual and I'm very excited to test out the very low gearing I now have!
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Looking forward to seeing that conversion, should be pretty bitchin'
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Its in my garage. Im going to have to do alot of homework on this swap though. I wish I could get in your head. What did you have to change with your 241 to make it adapt to the 4500? I think a parts list could be super beneficial to me. Im going to need every part you bought. What I came home with is almost exactly what you scored minus the pedals. I was lucky enough to find a 94 model with the lower granny and reverse gears. It was pulled from a 1 ton Dually with a 454. So many things to figure out though. Just realized I need a 400 Flywheel. Shame I have the 454 one with its mating clutch on my floor and its just a huge paperweight to me. How do you like your clutch choice? I was thinking Centerforce but dont have too much experience with either.
You will need a 32-spline NP241 to be mated behind your NV4500. The current NP241 in your truck would be 27 spline. Now you can go about this in two ways, simply get a 32spine t-case, or swap the 32-spine input shaft & bearing into your case. Literally the only difference between the two cases is the input shaft & bearing, other than that, nothing.

Yeah, I ran into the same issue with my truck and had to buy a new flywheel as well. You CAN re-use the clutch from the donor rig, I almost did, but since your in there it's a good time to put a new one in. I really like the Hays Supertruck clutch I put in my truck. It works well IMO, I can slip it if needed offroad, but it also holds well. I've heard they can take some abuse. It is pretty easy to drive with, as a friend with a manual mustang said it was easier than his car clutch :lol:

Hays and centerforce are made by the same company, however the centerforce clutches I've had experience with grab too hard.... there isn't any slippage in them IMO.
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Which part numbers do you need?
 

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02GMCtruck
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I grabbed my flywheel and clutch from Jegs, and the oil direct from Amsoil. The only other thing that I couldn't get at the dealship was the small shift boot that fits on the top of the shift tower (mine was tore). You can still get them from quad4x4.com on their small parts page.

I got the transfercase with the transmission. The only reason I swapped input shafts is because my NP241 is the harder to find passenger drop (because of my SAS). The 32-spine pass drops are like gold, unlike the IFS driver's drop version. Pass drop NP241s were only used 4 years, and only 2 of the years were electric speedos.

I honestly think you'd spend about the same finding a used case in the junkyard, and just selling your old case. I know the input shafts run about $150 alone, while a used t-case runs under $150 all day long (i picked up my current NP241 for $50).
 
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