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Discussion Starter #1
I’m planning to swap a 9.5 14 bolt semi float axle into my 2009 1500 sierra. The 14 bolts came in the vortex max trucks which I believe had the hydro boost not vacuum brakes. You could also get drums or disc brakes. I’m looking to do disc. Since my truck is vacuum brakes, would that have any affect on the new disc brake setup? Or would I need to swap to hydro boost? I also have stabilitrac.
Thanks.


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I've seen both L76 and Lq9 6.0's come with vacuum boosted brakes. Either way, the booster shouldn't matter. If you want to swap in a disc rear for your drums, you'll probably need the Disc/Disc master cylinder as well. I've done the swap on GMT400s, but not 900's so you might need to grab more than just that for the swap.
 

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Because of the Stabilitrak I would be hesitant to swap from drums to discs or vice versa, I believe the proportioning valve may be in the ABS module and in my experience they are just so fucking temperamental.

I could be completely wrong though.

I wouldn't think the transition from an axle to go from hydroboost to vacuum booster would impact you in any measurable way.
 

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Markmx6 is right, the abs module and valve assembly is different for the 6.0 trucks, and also different depending on if you have the JL4 rpo code. If you're dead set on this swap, go to the wrecking yard and get EVERYTHING. Even then, you might still run into some issues with everything talking to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’m not dead set on discs. I’d rather have everything work as it should than trying to chase little issues. So best bet would be to find a drum brake axle for best chance to get it all to work huh?


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Are you having specific issues with your axle and want a 9.5 rear just to upgrade or what? Either way, the 9.5 has a different abs tone ring and also a different ABS module. Just curious what your desire for the larger rear is. What I do when I want to swap anything is jump on rockauto and start comparing part numbers with the truck i have vs the truck i want to swap from.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
During regular maintenance I noticed a crap ton of metal shavings when the cover was pulled. My mechanic said it looks like the G80 is the culprit. I could simply replace it with a tru trac and be done but I’m still on stick gears and was thinking of having 456s put in. So at that point I was looking to upgrade to the 14 bolt and just do a full build on that and swap it in.


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Discussion Starter #8
I’ll make a parts list of the 2 axles and compare on rock auto. Any specific parts I should be cross referencing?


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Discussion Starter #9
Looks like I have:

JF3 BRAKE VAC POWER, 17' DISC/DRUM, W/ABS, 7, 000 LBS

JL4 CONTROL ACTIVE BRAKE

From what I’ve found so far jf3 is also on certain 14 bolts. So does it also have to have the JL4 code to work properly?


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You'll want to find components to match the JL4 that you have on your truck or you'll have inoperable stabilitrak and codes. Parts you'll need to cross reference off the top of my head: master cylinder, abs control valve and module, Possibly the booster as well but that should be the same. You'll also need to figure out how to connect your parking brake cables for your drum setup to the new disc setup, but I imagine that would be as simple as grabbing the rear cables off the donor truck. The last piece of the puzzle will be module programming and whether your swap ABS parts will talk to your truck's systems, which is an unknown at this time.

I can see your reasoning behind beefing up to a 9.5, but honestly if it were my time and money, I'd do a tru trac or Yukon with the gears you want in your existing setup. The G80 shitting the bed is definitely nothing new, and there are way better setups in the aftermarket.
 

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I agree, the true trac has been perfect for me. It is a low/zero maintenance item that I have never heard of wearing out. I also haven't heard of anyone breaking one.

Especially if you are going to plan on buying one for the new axle anyway...
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I actual had a tru trac and gears in my last truck and the we’re great, no problems at all. I just figured now would be the time to upgrade. I didn’t realize there could possibly be these sensor type issues with the swap. I figured it was a little more plug and play than it is.


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Keep your axle, 4.56 true trac and be done. Just because your G80 broke you don’t need to change everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the advise from everyone. Looks like I’ll just build up my 10 bolt.


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I did the disk swap on mine with factory drum booster and master cylinder. Traction control and stabili track worked fine, zero issues. I’m sure using the correct rear disc master cylinder of a Tahoe/burb would brake better, but the active brake management didn’t care what MC or brakes I had.

The 9.5 will work fine as long as it has the rear speed sensors in the axle tubes. But imo there not really worth the price tag or hunting one down.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everyone wants a ton of money for them too which was making it harder to justify.


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You can swap from drum to disks no problem. You dont need to change anything except the axle. There is no difference in the proportioning or metering. The JF option codes only specify if its hydro or vacuum and whether or not it has stabilitrak or towing brakes.

I have thrown a 14b sf 6 lug disk axle under several trucks from 2005 models to my current 2013 model. No issues at all
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Does it still retain stabilitrac?


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Yes
 
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