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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im intrested in this product but dont have any feeback to anyone that has used them or may know anyting about them. For those who dont know there just tubular upper and lower control arms with bag mounts on the lca and the shock relocater tabs on them. Are these things worth the price, and also is there a means of boltin the top of the bag in. Im confused on how the the top of the bag sits in the sprin cup up top, and from what i read it's commonly not bolted in, but would u want the bags bolted in, especially if u plan on rapidly movin the front end up and down or what not. If i chose not to go with these how else is the bag mounted, just bolted to the lca, and then mounted in the spring cup, and then relocate my shock tabs somewere?need some help on this issue :insane:
 

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For the 88-04 trucks it has an upper cup and it would bolt through the stock shock hole with a length of all thread that's welded to the upper cup.
From what I hear the arms are great on the 88-04's.
 

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Jason RIP
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I have them .. the top of the bag mounts to the cup and sits in the spring pocket and is bolted to the same hole that the stock shock was by a threaded rod.

The advantages of these are that you don't have to weld a shock mount to your stock LCAs, and they aid in alignment .. I probably could get my front end aligned with a very low ride height if I wanted to :read: I say I'm at about a 4" drop right now though. I think the downsides though are the price and I don't think I get as much lift as some of the other setups out there.

The instructions that came foe my kit was almost non-existent .. it was actually for the cool ride kit with stock arms, and on my drivers side the grease fitting on my LCA ball joint is in such a way that its hard to grease ... it came already pressed in by Air Ride :read:

 

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Jason RIP
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BouncinsoulAFI said:
are the upper control amrs necessary, and how easy is the instal?
You don't have to, but they are designed to help with balljoint binding and alignment ... if you had to choose just one, get the lowers because the bag mounts to them and the shocks too, will make things easier :read:

As for the install, my brother (Bud1300) did most of the work, I'm just an assistant and not a good one at that :LOL: ... the hardest part is the grinding and cutting to make the bag clear. The lower balljoints are already installed and the uppers bolt on so no big deal.
 

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You can use a sawzall to clearance the bag on 99+, it takes 5 minutes per side if you cut far enough the first time. :D
 

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I'm kid of confused since I am looking at the same set up on my 00' silverado. What would I have to cut for the bag to clear on the front end?
 

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The air ride arms dont get much lift, and the lower shock tabs suck. They break off, and rub the wheels when they're still entact. Cheapest design thats ever came from AirRide.
 

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Jason RIP
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Beyond Static said:
The air ride arms dont get much lift, and the lower shock tabs suck. They break off, and rub the wheels when they're still entact. Cheapest design thats ever came from AirRide.
I don't know about yours, but mine are plenty beefy .. way stronger looking than the stock arms .. and yes, my shock rubbed my stock tires but I think most everyones shocks will rub some at full lock with a big tire. As far as the lift, no they won't go up as much but that's because they are designed to go lower not higher :read:
 

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samcarol
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bcubed said:
I don't know about yours, but mine are plenty beefy .. way stronger looking than the stock arms .. and yes, my shock rubbed my stock tires but I think most everyones shocks will rub some at full lock with a big tire. As far as the lift, no they won't go up as much but that's because they are designed to go lower not higher :read:
there not designed to go lower, they make the huge negative camber issue go away. From the pictures u have posted, I actually sit lower with my stock front suspension than you do. I can drive with my tranny cross memeber on the ground with no rubbing of my tires at all b/c of my camber.
 

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im pretty happy with them....Personally I dont like the way lots of camber looks. I dont have my 22s on yet but Id think if you got the correct backspace you wouldnt have any more of a problem that most other kits out there with clearances.
 

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Jason RIP
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2k1slvrdo said:
there not designed to go lower, they make the huge negative camber issue go away. From the pictures u have posted, I actually sit lower with my stock front suspension than you do. I can drive with my tranny cross memeber on the ground with no rubbing of my tires at all b/c of my camber.
What I meant is, they are designed so you can ride lower while still being aligned :read:
 

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samcarol
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bcubed said:
What I meant is, they are designed so you can ride lower while still being aligned :read:
real men burn their tires regardless lol :read:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so how else can i do the front other than goin with these strong arms, say i keep everything stock in front, how would i install the bags, what does it take.
 

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samcarol
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using the stock suspenion, take the coil out, put the cups and bag in, and VOILA! its done. You need to weld shock mounts on too though. I'm happy with my stock suspension
 

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The main benifit to using our arms is that you do not need to use lowered spindles in conjunction with the arms on the 99+. The kit will get you between a 4-5" dropped ride height and the ability to get the alignment back without getting excessive camber when deflated. The previous way of doing this truck the right way was to use something like our cool ride kit inconjunction with a set of Bell Tech drop spindles to get you down. So really in the end.... we made doing the front end cheaper with better results. Dropping the front all the way down using stock arms and spindles creates excessive camber. As far as the shock tabs breaking on these arms there sounds to be something else wrong, like the truck is bottoming out on the shock before it completely deflates. If there is an big rubbing problem..... check you tire and wheel fitment. No doubt that with a cool ride kit you will loose a little bit of turning radius but it should not be excessive.
 

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Jason RIP
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The main benifit to using our arms is that you do not need to use lowered spindles in conjunction with the arms on the 99+. The kit will get you between a 4-5" dropped ride height and the ability to get the alignment back without getting excessive camber when deflated. The previous way of doing this truck the right way was to use something like our cool ride kit inconjunction with a set of Bell Tech drop spindles to get you down. So really in the end.... we made doing the front end cheaper with better results. Dropping the front all the way down using stock arms and spindles creates excessive camber. As far as the shock tabs breaking on these arms there sounds to be something else wrong, like the truck is bottoming out on the shock before it completely deflates. If there is an big rubbing problem..... check you tire and wheel fitment. No doubt that with a cool ride kit you will loose a little bit of turning radius but it should not be excessive.
I love my cool ride with upper and lower arms, I just wish I had a little more negative camber when aired out (not much) so I could clear the fenderwells better. As it is now the outer edge of my tire hits the edge of the fenderwell (which is the shallowest part) .. if my tires tucked back in another inch or so my tires would be more in the pocket of the fenderwells and more clearance witht he fenderwells. The only way I can think to accomplish this is to have my truck aligned at a slightly higher ride height so that when I aired out I got more negative camber... does this sound right to you, Tony?
 
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