What keeps slipping out camber? Or toe?
Alignment Help
As some of you know I put a 9.5 FTS lift on the truck....and since then, I've gotten an alignment every single week. I've had enough. There's obviously something that's not right, and I can't fucking figure it out. Everything is torqued to spec. I watched the guys do it. It's only the drivers side that goes out. I've checked the frame for any cracks of any sort that would be allowing any sort of play. The shop suggested new cam bolts? I dont see how that would help, but if it does, I'll do it asap. I am thoroughly confused/pissed off with this lift right now. I'm about ready to scrap it. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
1 - 20 of 130 Posts
It seems both go. I had loctite on the cam bolt as well. I noticed when I got home last thursday from the shop, the driverside heim steering was not tightened, so i measured and it was still on and I torqued it down. Now the toe is off for sure, and it looks like the camber is as well.What keeps slipping out camber? Or toe?
the cam bolts effect your caster and camber, if they are worn, then it will allow that to move easier. if something like a tierod end is worn out it will also allow it to be straight one min, then off the next
Hmm well are you taking it offroad or hitting anything that may be knocking toe out? Or maybe he didn't tighten that bolt down like he should have.
The camber problem could be fixed with some cam locks maybe :shrug: it's not maxed or anything, you mean it aligns then slips out?
The camber problem could be fixed with some cam locks maybe :shrug: it's not maxed or anything, you mean it aligns then slips out?
I put markings on the bolt compared to where it lines up on the lift. Seems to be exactly where it was when I got the alignment but if you look at the tire, you can see it cocked slightly. As for tie rods ends... I dont have em. I have brand new heims so I dont seem them being worn out....Again, leaving me in a state of confusionthe cam bolts effect your caster and camber, if they are worn, then it will allow that to move easier. if something like a tierod end is worn out it will also allow it to be straight one min, then off the next
Yeah how are the TRE's? Have you checked for play in them?
Also on a side note I had one tech forget to put the lock on the steering wheel when he was setting my toe and it just moved the steering wheel instead of setting the toe.....
Also on a side note I had one tech forget to put the lock on the steering wheel when he was setting my toe and it just moved the steering wheel instead of setting the toe.....
This is all within 50 miles in the city, with slow driving. I usually beat the shit outa it, but have refrained from doing so.Hmm well are you taking it offroad or hitting anything that may be knocking toe out? Or maybe he didn't tighten that bolt down like he should have.
The camber problem could be fixed with some cam locks maybe :shrug: it's not maxed or anything, you mean it aligns then slips out?
I cannot do a cam loc either. I'll post pics later today to show the setup. It aligns fine. In fact the printout is nearly flawless. The drive home is fine. The next day is fine. The 3rd day you start to notice it. The 4th day, its toast again.
I have no TRE's. The heims are brand new. Literally, 200 miles max on em.Yeah how are the TRE's? Have you checked for play in them?
Also on a side note I had one tech forget to put the lock on the steering wheel when he was setting my toe and it just moved the steering wheel instead of setting the toe.....
I've had 4 techs work on it now. It's fine leaving the shop.
Well mike seems you are just about as screwed as me. The alignment shop tried to rip me for a hub bearing tore it apart and found no evidence of play or failure. So i dont know whats wrong with mine either. Got new pitman, idler, heims only have maybe 5k on them. Ive never had a chevy that i could keep aligned though so........
its the heavy front bumper wearing things out :crazy:
Damn... Can ball joints affect alignment? I had them checked when I did the lift and they were perfectly fine.Well mike seems you are just about as screwed as me. The alignment shop tried to rip me for a hub bearing tore it apart and found no evidence of play or failure. So i dont know whats wrong with mine either. Got new pitman, idler, heims only have maybe 5k on them. Ive never had a chevy that i could keep aligned though so........
Nice try.... you had to try and squeeze that in didn't you :crazy:its the heavy front bumper wearing things out :crazy:
I was thinking it might be that my lack of sway bar could be allowing the suspension to move so much that it throws it outta whack but thats a real long shot.
That's what I've been saying...i keep getting corrected that it's not possible though :shrug:I was thinking it might be that my lack of sway bar could be allowing the suspension to move so much that it throws it outta whack but thats a real long shot.
Something is shifting, are the upper control arms being properly torqued to 140 ft.lbs. when they are aligining it?
Yes. Watched them do it this time.Something is shifting, are the upper control arms being properly torqued to 140 ft.lbs. when they are aligining it?
See if the subframe is moving around at all. I'd bet if the cam bolts aren't moving the the LCA mounting points are moving a little.
I know on my old 4786 piece subframe Superlift kit the kit was moving around. I was going to weld it all together before I decided to go another route.
I know on my old 4786 piece subframe Superlift kit the kit was moving around. I was going to weld it all together before I decided to go another route.
Hmm... you're not the 2nd person to mention that today. Should I wait till its realigned to retorque it all to prevent anything else from moving or just go for it?See if the subframe is moving around at all. I'd bet if the cam bolts aren't moving the the LCA mounting points are moving a little.
I know on my old 4786 piece subframe Superlift kit the kit was moving around. I was going to weld it all together before I decided to go another route.
Here's my current plan of attack
1 - Sway bar in
2 - Weld/Bolt in cross member from front subframe to rear subframe.
3 - Weld in support from drivers side to passenger side (old owner did it and I think that should help and possible "flexing"
4 - Alignment making sure everything is torqued to spec and add loctite.
roll your truck down comp hill
1 - 20 of 130 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
GMC Truck Forum
A forum community dedicated to GMC and Chevy full size owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Silverados, Sierras, and other full size trucks performance, modifications, suspension, lift kits, tires, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
