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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so most of you guys helped out in my tire thread I had a couple weeks ago... I went from a 275-45-20 down to a 255-35-20 tire because I wanted to clear a future 5/7 drop on my truck... Well the new tire has about an inch lower sidewall compared to the old tire... This didnt bother me until I tried to enter my local car wash and caught my frame on the rails that push the truck through...

So since I've gotten super lazy and hate washing the truck recently I decided to just stop dicking around and just bag the truck so I can fit in the car wash again... For now I want to do the front... I have a few simple questions for you experts... I've done tons of reading tonight but I still have some questions...

Where exactly do the Valves go? I see some have them on the frame rails, some by the tanks and some in random locations. Where would be best to place them or is it just preference? Ill be doing 4 3/8" SMC valves for the front.

Also, I know I need fittings for the Valves and Bags. What exact fittings do I need? Or is this going to depend on how I run the valves?

Cups, KP cups are pre cut to the right length I need right (16"+ MCG Spindles)?

Shocks, do i need to run them or will a nice bag be enough? I dont want to half ass it but shocks are something I can easily do later.

I can take the coil out, cut it and re-install everything in about an hour per side. I've taken the front end apart a few times so there shouldnt be any stubborn bolts or ball joints.There is no reason why I cant get the front end done in 1 day right?

Shopping List-
KP Cups and RE6 or 7's
4 3/8" SMC Valves
50' of Air Line ( Will use any remaining line for the rear when the time comes)
Vair 450 and 6 gallon tank
Dot Fittings
Dual Needle Gauge (Will probably get 2 so I have the rear ready)
Check Valves
Tank Gauge
Some cool O Rings to hold the line down against the frame
Loctite or Teflon Tape for Fittings
Grommets for the line to go into the bed

For the rear Im pretty much set on the KP 4 link with Cantilever...

I SHOULD be able to do the front with $1000 right?
Thanks in advance for all the help with this epic journey to laying frame...
 

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Its sounds like you got everything pretty much under way. With the valves it has to do alot with preference and ease of access, ideally you want them as close to the bags as you can. My valves are in my grille mounted to my radiator support. I would suggest doing re7's up from with a kp cup kit cuz it comes with hardware. If installed right you dont have to cut much to make the bag fit in the pocket. You can buy fitting packs from AVS and Gravity werx or if you call SD they will set you up with some. You should be able to keep the front end under a $1000
 

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__the real GODFATHER__
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Sounds like your ready homie.. and be sure to shop for best prices

My valves are mounted on a bar inside my engine bay, this was only pic i found from build up (empty space in picture where valves are, couldnt find one with actual valves on it)

natestruck014-1.gif
 

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OG
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I like where mine are at. Easy access and very well protected IMO




They are back between the frame rails. I'd have to total the truck to hurt them.

an underside shot with the bumper on

Picture003.gif


With the bumper off. It's hard to tell how far back they are.
IMG_0626.gif


IMG_0627.gif
 

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I like where blueo2's are mine just above that in front of the radiator. If you need pics or anything I have some or could take some. Dont forget to make some relief cuts in the control arms to get at the bolts for the bags. just a helpful hint
 

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Right now I have no shocks in the front and I have shocks out back. Rides nice, but ill put shocks up front at some point. Plumb the air system first make sure no leaks and everything is run where you want it and then do the front last.
 

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valve placement is really up to you. i mounted mine under my notch cover, which is on hinges so i have easy access. once you figure where you want to mount them you can figure what fittings you will need. drawing a diagram will help.
the air management, valves, tank, compressor, etc..... will take the longest & cost the most, but you can definatly do it for under $1000.
 

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Puttin 4 Bird
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I mounted my valves behind the front bumper.
 

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So you're bagging your truck in order to fit it into the car wash?

Dude hand wash that shit. I never drive my rig through an automated P.O.S.
 

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Bagged and Bodydropped
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So you're bagging your truck in order to fit it into the car wash?

Dude hand wash that shit. I never drive my rig through an automated P.O.S.
Thats what I was going to say so I just held it lmfao... I guess he likes scratches
 

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......and def do shocks. Your truck will drive without them but it makes a world of difference with good shocks. Bilstien is a great way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I used to think the same way about car washes...My girl friend took it in once with out telling me and when I found out I flipped!!! BUT, i didnt notice anything wrong with it besides small swirl marks on the hood and bed cover... Figured out it was the parts the guys did by hand... So from now on I dry my own hood and bed cover with waffle weaves...


Anyhow, I guess I will be running shocks from the get go...
So far I have decided to run the valves behind the bumper...

Jimmy Bonez, your such a genius! I ordered my Air line and Valves today along and will plumb the entire truck first then when the day comes, all I have to do is install cups and bags and be done with it...
 

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Puttin 4 Bird
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run shocks. It will ride better than stock/lowered
 

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:handshake: I knew i was good for something. It took me longer to plumb the system, get the fittings right, run the lines, mount the valves than it do it to do spindles weld in cups cut the bump stops raise the tranny x member and all that happy horse shit. More so cuz the simpler the better when running the air lines less fittings less chance for leakage
 

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The early stache
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I say spend your $ on tools like a nice welder and build your setup rather than buying stuff that is pre-made. I like my kp but it was way too much money for what I got out of it. For the front you should be able to do it for 500 - 600. Spindles, bags, cups, valves, and fittings. Don't get pre made cups or a kit for the front. Do a wishbone out back to keep your stock tank location or do a tri 4 and put a cell out back. Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I say spend your $ on tools like a nice welder and build your setup rather than buying stuff that is pre-made. I like my kp but it was way too much money for what I got out of it. For the front you should be able to do it for 500 - 600. Spindles, bags, cups, valves, and fittings. Don't get pre made cups or a kit for the front. Do a wishbone out back to keep your stock tank location or do a tri 4 and put a cell out back. Just my opinion.
I already have a welder... I just dont know how to use it... I only know a few guys that can weld good and could help me but they are always busy... I dont want to be stuck with a half done truck just because I'm waiting on someone else...
 

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Bagged and Bodydropped
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I already have a welder... I just dont know how to use it... I only know a few guys that can weld good and could help me but they are always busy... I dont want to be stuck with a half done truck just because I'm waiting on someone else...
Practice on how to use the welder
 

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I got a set of upper Bolt in kp cups if you want them. Then you just need to plate your lowers and bolt the bag in. Or i have some weld in upper lower cups also. shoot me a pm if you need some and dont want to pay for new.
 

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The early stache
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I already have a welder... I just dont know how to use it... I only know a few guys that can weld good and could help me but they are always busy... I dont want to be stuck with a half done truck just because I'm waiting on someone else...
Just takes practice and someone to give you some pointers. What kind of welder do you have? Go to a welding forum. They have pros on there that weld everyday and will give you pointers off of pictures of your welds.
 
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