well im lookin to bag the truck soon...what all will I need for a decent first setup? If you could just tell me the parts thatd be great cause this would be my first bag job and I dont know shit about doin it...my uncles a good welder so he'll probably be helpin...anyway...onto the truck, its a 2003 GMC Sierra ext. cab..and the rims are 22x9.5 so what all will I need and what all do I need to do to get it done? and also..is there anything I should know about bagging the truck because its extended cab thats different than regular? TIA!!
bagging questions...help a brotha out!
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1,594 Posts
there are bunches of threads on this... do a search... read one of the stickies above as well.
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7,047 Posts
make sure your wheels have a +30 of more offset for the back to tuck.
tub the wheel wells front and rear
notch the frame
raise the tank
raise the tranny crossmember
raise the y pipe
get a good four link setup
rear shock bar and new shocks
bag over axle kit ( suicide doors makes great combos with notches)
bags at all four corners
at least a five gallon tank
compressor
four or eight valves
air line and fittings
water traps
check valves
switch box
all wiring
bag cups front
shock relocators front
new shocks front
drop spindles
i think thats it. teachers can you grade my work
obtw this is to lay on 22s
you can do less but not lay frame
tub the wheel wells front and rear
notch the frame
raise the tank
raise the tranny crossmember
raise the y pipe
get a good four link setup
rear shock bar and new shocks
bag over axle kit ( suicide doors makes great combos with notches)
bags at all four corners
at least a five gallon tank
compressor
four or eight valves
air line and fittings
water traps
check valves
switch box
all wiring
bag cups front
shock relocators front
new shocks front
drop spindles
i think thats it. teachers can you grade my work
obtw this is to lay on 22s
you can do less but not lay frame
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75 Posts
I beleive there is a write up about how to lay frame on 22's on fullsizechevy.com
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4,694 Posts
Glad to see you are bagging your truck. The most important part of bagging is to use good parts so you do it right the first time. I'd suggest 8 quality valves (1/2" up and 3/8" down will be plenty fast...you can go 1/2" all around if you like but it might be too fast), a good air compressor (engine driven or electrics are fine, plan on getting two electrics if you skip the engine driven), good air line, and good fittings.
A lot of people will tell you that you can lay out with a bolt-in notch in the NBS on 20s, but they are wrong. I had a bolt in and did not lay. Added a step notch big enough for 22s and the rear of my truck is planted. To use the 22s in your sig you will probably have to narrow the rear axle and tub out the bed. Any notch will do as long as it is quality as you'll have to fit it together and weld it in yourself.
Finally, make sure there are NO rubbing issues anywhere in your system before you even attempt to drive the truck. Don't assume anything as an air line not zip tied down correctly could get against your exhaust pipe and melt half way down the road. If a bag is rubbing something it will also fail causing you a lot of grief in the process.
The last thing you will need to worry about is your gas tank. The plastic NBS is pretty scary and the truck will lay out on it. I wouldn't suggest trying to drag the truck without raising the tank or getting a fuel cell. I have a devious customs gas tank in my truck and it allows it to lay out without hitting the ground. It is also a very nice piece of aluminum.
There are a lot of suspension hard parts available. I chose to go with the KP Components rear 4link plus "canti" attachment because it was bolt on, had great reviews, and gave good lift. You can use whatever you want, as long as it isn't AIM products. In fact, if you've already ordered anything that is from Chassis Tech or AIM throw it away and start over. There are a lot of front setups available as too. You can't go wrong with the Air Ride arms or some of the other arms available.
I hope this answers some of your questions. Feel free to post up if you have any more :shake:
A lot of people will tell you that you can lay out with a bolt-in notch in the NBS on 20s, but they are wrong. I had a bolt in and did not lay. Added a step notch big enough for 22s and the rear of my truck is planted. To use the 22s in your sig you will probably have to narrow the rear axle and tub out the bed. Any notch will do as long as it is quality as you'll have to fit it together and weld it in yourself.
Finally, make sure there are NO rubbing issues anywhere in your system before you even attempt to drive the truck. Don't assume anything as an air line not zip tied down correctly could get against your exhaust pipe and melt half way down the road. If a bag is rubbing something it will also fail causing you a lot of grief in the process.
The last thing you will need to worry about is your gas tank. The plastic NBS is pretty scary and the truck will lay out on it. I wouldn't suggest trying to drag the truck without raising the tank or getting a fuel cell. I have a devious customs gas tank in my truck and it allows it to lay out without hitting the ground. It is also a very nice piece of aluminum.
There are a lot of suspension hard parts available. I chose to go with the KP Components rear 4link plus "canti" attachment because it was bolt on, had great reviews, and gave good lift. You can use whatever you want, as long as it isn't AIM products. In fact, if you've already ordered anything that is from Chassis Tech or AIM throw it away and start over. There are a lot of front setups available as too. You can't go wrong with the Air Ride arms or some of the other arms available.
I hope this answers some of your questions. Feel free to post up if you have any more :shake:
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26 Posts
do you even know how much your willing to spend?.....like what compressors you want....brand of valves?.....how many tanks?
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26 Posts
for the compressors...i would definitely go with viair.. the viair 480 is awesome.....for your valves...go with 3/8 in asco valves with 1/2 in airline... for your bags..go with slam specialties
whats the difference between 3/8 valves and 1/2 valves? 1/2 is faster? and whats the difference between 1/2 airline and 3/8 airline? same thing??..1/2 is also faster? and thanks man! btw, do i do all the same slam bags all around or do i do 2 of the same in the front and 2 of the same in the back? Thanks!!
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26 Posts
ya 1/2 in valves are faster same with the air line.....as far as tanks go...a 5 gallon 8 port is the way to go...its alot easier
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26 Posts
for the bags up front do the slam re7's ....and for the back do slam re8's.....basically the front are gonnna be 2600's..and the back is gonna be ..2800's
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26 Posts
ya edc's are nice....but pricey.......but i guess if you can afford it...it can be your best option...another option is running on nitrogen...but thats also pricey....to rent it from a home depot...is about 300 a year...then you also need a regulator to go with it..and thats about 150...plus if you run out of nitrogen you get it refilled for a cost..im not sure how much
like 20-30 bucks i think
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26 Posts
im not a switchaholic...like most people are.....i just drive and wen i see a hot chick or another truck thats dropped or possibly bagged...then thats when i hit switches....so 2 480's and 8 gallons of air are fine with me
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7,047 Posts
if you are going with the kp kit put the slam 7 in the back and the slam 8 in the front thats what im gonna do. droppedgmc does that on all his installs and it rides nice. you put the bigger bag in front because you have more weight up there and yes it fits in the nbs and if you have the kp canti setup you dont need a big bag so go with the 7 and it rides like a caddi from what brian tells me. i would reccomend 1/2 line and 3/8 valves all around and if you want to go faster than just upgrade to 1/2 valves its easier to upgrade then downgrade i think
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