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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
My right front 4WD hub has gone bad. The directions say I will need to remove both ball joints. My question is they offer 2 types of ball joints. Press in have a lifetime warantee but do I have to take the control arms off to press them? Also if I have to do uppers and lower ball joints will I need to unload the tension on my torsion bars? This will be my first ball joint replacement so any suggestions welcome. BTW it is a 2001 silverado RCSB 4WD. Thanks

Oh one more question. Is it worth it to go buy GM ball joints and steering components or will they need to be riveted?
 

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I would go to your local auto parts store and get moog balljoints, theyre a lot cheaper than GM and better quality. And yes, you are going to have to unload the torsion bars. It will be a time consuming job but shouldn't be too hard. good luck.

I didnt think you had to remove the balljoints to get the hub replaced, I think that just makes it easier.:think:
 

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I believe they mean to just unbolt the ball joints from the hub, not removing them from the control arms, although it wwould be a good time to replace them if they need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I believe they mean to just unbolt the ball joints from the hub, not removing them from the control arms, although it wwould be a good time to replace them if they need it.
Ok So I can seperate the 2 without actually removing the ball joint. Good to know. Thanks

I would go to your local auto parts store and get moog balljoints, theyre a lot cheaper than GM and better quality. And yes, you are going to have to unload the torsion bars. It will be a time consuming job but shouldn't be too hard. good luck.
Thanks Guys
 

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Ballin' on a Budget
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dude, thats bs. I replaced my a cv and both hubs and didnt need to take off anything more than the wheel and brake assembly. You're replacing the hub, not the entire knuckle, so the bj's arent an issue.

First, take off the wheel.
Second, have someone hold the brakes (for leverage).
Third, get a ride to the hardware store to buy a 35mm socket (maybe this should be first?).
Fourth, get a large breaker bar and break the cv bolt loose. Unscrew, knock it out, and let it sit for now (you may need to remove it from the diff to get enough clearance).
Fifth, Break the 3 bolts holding on the hub loose and remove the hub.
Sixth, Repeat 5431 in reverse.

4wd Torque Specs:
Hub/Bearing assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts: 133
Driveaxle inner joint-to-axleshaft flange bolts: 58
Driveaxle/hub nut through 2000: 165
Driveaxle/hub nut 2001 and later: 155
Front Caliper mounting bracket bolts for 1500's: 129
Wheel lugnuts: 140

Don't hold me accountable for any techniques or torque specs. Techniques are what I learned on my own. Specs are out of a haynes manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
dude, thats bs. I replaced my a cv and both hubs and didnt need to take off anything more than the wheel and brake assembly. You're replacing the hub, not the entire knuckle, so the bj's arent an issue.

First, take off the wheel.
Second, have someone hold the brakes (for leverage).
Third, get a ride to the hardware store to buy a 35mm socket (maybe this should be first?).
Fourth, get a large breaker bar and break the cv bolt loose. Unscrew, knock it out, and let it sit for now (you may need to remove it from the diff to get enough clearance).
Fifth, Break the 3 bolts holding on the hub loose and remove the hub.
Sixth, Repeat 5431 in reverse.

4wd Torque Specs:
Hub/Bearing assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts: 133
Driveaxle inner joint-to-axleshaft flange bolts: 58
Driveaxle/hub nut through 2000: 165
Driveaxle/hub nut 2001 and later: 155
Front Caliper mounting bracket bolts for 1500's: 129
Wheel lugnuts: 140

Don't hold me accountable for any techniques or

I already started and I do need that 35mm oops! Thanks for the info on the ball joints and everything trhat will make it alot easier. :shake:
 

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Ballin' on a Budget
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np. Sorry i didnt get to you earlier.
 

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BlownSierra gave a good explaination. I couldn't type that much, but he's on point. For the axle nut, i got an impact wrench socket for it at auto parts store. Common size for the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK I got it off Thanks too all of you! Man looking at it in the morning i decided to go buy a big punch and a 4lb hammer and after i got the CV off it was about 15 min of whacking Thanks everyone.
 

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Ballin' on a Budget
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anytime :thumbsup:
 

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For a good price on Moog stuff try and have O'rileys price match a competitor. All it had to be for a price match when I did it, although it has been a couple of years ago, was it had to be an instock part and carry the same warranty. It didn't have to be the same brand, so I got the Moog stuff for the same price as the cheapo crap that some other places sell. I think it saved around $15 per bj for a 1997 GMC Jimmy.
 
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