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Discussion Starter #1
GOING FOR 6 inch lift:worship:
Whats the difference between the knuckle lift that BDS offers and the Dick cepek lift with no new knuckle and from what I can tell a new Top A-arm?
Which is better? I'm not to much of an offroader. With the lift I might go once a month cause this is the only ride I got and cant afford for it to break all the time from constant wheelin. Just want a nice clean lift!!

Fill me in if anyone knows. I would like to know as much as I can about the two. Pros and Cons!! :drool:
I am just trying to figure out why everyone I call says to stay away from the non Knuckle lift (new spindle whatever its called)
 
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I like the Cepek because it is a very stout kit and it is a very good price. I had it on my Tahoe for over a year and I had no problems with it at all. I did a lot of stupid things in that Tahoe and the lift kit was ROCK solid. It doesn't space out the front track at all and it is beefy. I really have no idea what disadvantage that there is to the lift kit. The instructions suck and it's a pain to install, but once it is on you will swear by it.

Here is my Tahoe on 15x10 with 35x14.50 Mud Grapplers
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BDS leaves the upper arm in the stock location and uses a longer knuckle.
This is good for two reasons: 1) It keeps the upper a-arm from moving around, which improves alignment. 2) There is a greater distance between the upper and lower a-arms, providing more leverage over the wider/heavier/taller wheels and tires you plan on adding.
This is also bad for two reasons: 1) This will push your front wheels out about 1.5" though, on each side. 2) The front differential on this kit is only dropped about 4.5", so you can reuse your stock drive shaft. This is bad, because you cannot crank your kit up to 8" like you can on other kits. Your CV angles will be worse than stock.

The dick cepek kit reuses the stock knuckle.
This is good for a few reasons: 1) Everything is dropped down a full 6.5". This retains all stock angles... steering, CV, a-arms, etc. 2) You can safely crank the torsion bars to get 8" of lift if you want to.
This is bad because: 1) You need a new front driveshaft. 2) There are more parts to install. 3) If your bolts aren't tight, you'll loose your alignment fast. (Not usually an issue.)

I would get the Dick Cepek kit. They are both 6" kits, but the Cepek will be taller just because everything is dropped down 6.5". The Cepek kit also uses sturdy subframe with connectors, unlike the BDS kit which is just two separate brackets.
 

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I'll start by answering your last question first. Most offroad shops are going to push knuckle kits because they are easier to install and they are cheaper, therefore they can make more profit by selling/installing them. Before I go on to talking about the pros and cons, what it is really going to boil down to is personal preference. There really isn't one "be all end all" kit out there.

  • Knuckle kits increase track width.
  • Stock steering geometry is retained.
  • In most cases the diff is only dropped 4.5" while the knuckles have a full 6" lift.
  • CVs are already at an angle in the factory location, making it difficult to crank higher.
  • Stock driveshaft is used, therefore knuckle kits are usually cheaper.
  • Holds alignment better than a full-drop kit.
  • Easier to install.
  • Full drop kits drop the diff a full 6"
  • You have the ability to safely crank higher if desired.
  • A new driveshaft is required if you have auto-trac, therefore making the kit more expensive.
  • Stock knuckles are retained.
  • Track width remains the same.
  • Won't hold alignment as good as a knuckle kit.
  • More difficult to install.
I went with a full-drop kit because it allows you to crank your CVs more and increased track width produced by knuckle kits bothers me from a cosmetic standpoint. Full-drop kits are a complex install, but worth it in my opinion. I've never had alignment issues with it. To me, full-drop kits are the most logical kits out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dirty Black I love that Hoe. She stands perfect!!! That is just what i'm lookin for when my truck gets lifted. Thanks for all your info guys. I'm gonna say i'm going with the DC. I'm probabley going to have a shop put it on since I have never done a lift before. Oh yeah I talk to a lift shop and they were saying I should get a full rear spring in the rear. No blocks! They said add-a-leaf and blocks are not good. Any remarks about this anyone??
 
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Well the first 2 pictures are with new TB's and with an 8" leaf springs in the rear. I without a doubt would get new leaf springs and TB's while I was at it...made a huge difference and I love the difference.
 

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Weird Turns Pro.
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The dick cepek kit reuses the stock knuckle.
This is bad because: 1) You need a new front driveshaft.
I did not need a new driveshaft with my lift :read:
 

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Weird Turns Pro.
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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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you dont need them with auto trac if you dont mind the vibs. The-Law never changed his shaft
 

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even with auto trac your fine with the factory front shaft.. the guy at cepek said unless i plan to run 70 up the highway in 4x4 the factory one was fine. he was right! never had the slightest problem!
 

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I think it used to be for the OBS, but now I think it's a knuckle kit like the NBS ones.
 

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greyZ71
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where can you buy the dick cepek lift?
 

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The Green Seal
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BDS lift for OBS was a full drop kit, now it is a knuckle type lift. they do not make the full drop anymore
thats about the gayest thing they could have ever done... the bds/trailmaster full drop is/was a good lift IMFO (a bitch to install used... but good)
 
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