[Rocky_907]

What did you do?

 

[Heath070707]

I bought FFR heim steering, Cognito pitman arm/ idler arm support braces and cam locks for upper a arms.

 

[GCncsuHD]

Transfer case is rarely a weak point, which the exception of a known pump rub issue on some cases that has nothing to do with the added stresses of rotational mass or higher HP but rather a design flaw. There are simple fixes to this problem.

As far as transmission, the best single upgrade is a larger transmission cooler as heat is the worst enemy and they tend to slip more causing heat with larger tires.

Next, I would say REGEAR! There is no replacement for mechanical advantage.

The 4l60e is known to have weak points, but there are plenty of less invasive upgrades such as vette servo and a shift kit for a little more reliability.

I have a shift kit for my 4l80e but haven't gotten around to putting it in, about 50k miles now on 37"+ tires and 130k overall with no problems, I do have a 26,000 GVW trans cooler to help out and 5.13s. Other than that there are no simple upgrades to the 4l80e without a full rebuild.

The newer 6l80e and 6l90e's are completely electronic, shift kits and servos will serve no purpose, not much you can do outside of tuning, although they are built pretty strong.

I definitely recommend Cognito Idler and Pitman arm braces.

Heim steering- take it or leave it. It is definitely stronger, but it is more susceptible to accelerated wear due to the environment than the stock tie rod setup. I wouldn't run it in salty, sandy, or muddy environments.

I would definitely look into beefing up the brakes, if nothing else go to stainless lines in the front minimum, there is a night and day difference in pedal feel with large tires.

 

[mudboy]

as far as transfer cases go I'd don't know too much that you can do internally. Coming from the mudracing world I'd have to say that most t-case issues you see on factory chain drive T-cases is from the housing flexing. Braces going from the frame to bearing supports etc. make the case more ridgid. I have seen NP208s hold up to over 700 hp properly braced.
Now all of that is to the extreme. A stock t-case should hold up to any kind of tuned motor with a mild tire 33-38. On regular driving 54" tires should be fine with a stock case. Once you get into off road of any sort then it's time to start upgrading.
transmissions shouldn't be a problem either with proper gearing throughout the truck. Adding a good trans cooler would be a must (at least in my point of view), once you start putting more power through the trans then it's time to start upgrading internals. Now a 4L60E I'd upgrade internals just for the fact that they sucked all in general.
All in all a daily driver with a motor in stock trim, properly geared you should have no problems.

 

[coonbottom]

Wondering, can anyone recommend any specific cooler I should look more into?

This is the one I am going with:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-45954/

 

[mccustomize]

I swapped a 4L65e into mine, also bought a 12" pusher fan to go on the trans cooler. I still need to buy the cooler, and I'm pretty much set on one from summit, it's hard to beat the prices.

I did score the fan at a local swap meet brand new for $29.

also you can't stress enough, REGEAR, makes a world of difference, I'm running 4.56's on 37's, but should have went 4.88's

 

[ezskanken]

Rocky :slap: Stop it! LOL!

 

[coonbottom]

Oo, I didn't know they were that cheap. How do you rate them btw? i.e how can you tell what good enough for our applications and what's not? Are they measured by voltage? GVW? j/w..

The bigger the better. The longer the fluid can stay out of the trans, the more time it can cool.

"I was told" the tube and fine style cool better than the plate style of coolers.

The fans and voltage, meh. If it is in the front of the truck it doesn't matter much since it will have air flowing across it most of the time. I just like the fan/cooler combo since I am going to be running it in the bed.

You can get a large plate one without a fan and run the line going into the radiator into it, then run your out line from the cooler back into the in line of the radiator.

Really, anything is better than nothing. A bigger trans pan helps also.

Keeping the trans cool will help but the 4LXXe's still have weak guts. So don't go dumping it in R or 1st with your foot on the gas.

 

[Heath070707]

the bigger the better. The longer the fluid can stay out of the trans, the more time it can cool.

"i was told" the tube and fine style cool better than the plate style of coolers.

The fans and voltage, meh. If it is in the front of the truck it doesn't matter much since it will have air flowing across it most of the time. I just like the fan/cooler combo since i am going to be running it in the bed.

You can get a large plate one without a fan and run the line going into the radiator into it, then run your out line from the cooler back into the in line of the radiator.

Really, anything is better than nothing. A bigger trans pan helps also.

Keeping the trans cool will help but the 4lxxe's still have weak guts. so don't go dumping it in r or 1st with your foot on the gas.

killa killa

 

[l PATRICK l]

Rocky, if you create anymore threads........:caffeine:

Haha STOP IT!

 

[03z-71]

what size tranny cooler come on our trucks stock with the tow package?

also does the outlet size matter? Sorry for newbie question there...hehe

 

[03z-71]

How does this one sound? the biggest they have 10 x 20 x 3/4 or is it worth the extra money to get the ones that are 1.5" thick?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4126/

 

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