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haz 12"s!
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Discussion Starter #1
Arent there pills for this?! :anitoof:

For a street driven truck (30k+ miles a year) with some off road and some time in holes, whats the best way to clear 9"? Go with a straight suspension lift or 6" suspension and 3" body. I dont want to break things or have to replace a ton of stuff every 6 months. If I break it on Sunday, I dont work on Monday.

Its for a 04 1/2 ton.
 

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the cheapest rout would be 6" suspension and 3" body but let us know a little more on what kind of wheeling u will be doing mostly mud, trails, etc
 
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Either way will work man. I personally would prolly go with all suspension and keep the angles as "flat" as possible. That should help prolong things and just don't beat the ever living hell out of it. I would get like a 10-12" FTS and be done with it. Keep the angles flat and slap on the big meats. What are your goals for the truck anyways?
 
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BTW I don't know if I would lift a truck 9" to daily drive 30K miles a year. That is a lot of miles and a lot of wear and tear. I just know I wouldn't have wanted to drive my Tahoe 30K miles a year.
 

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haz 12"s!
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Discussion Starter #5
Goals... humm... Its mostly a street queen that I daily drive. It wont be a hardcore off roader since it will soon be my only ride. I wanted to run around a 36x15.5 tire ( I seen a local GMC that had 375/60s and it was sweet), thats the reason for the 9"s. I will take it through some trails and the occasional mud hole, but I wont be doing any of the crazy off road stuff like jumping or rockin'.
 
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sounds good to me man. I would go all suspension if it was me, just so if you ever change ur mind and want bigger (you will) you can add the bodylift then. Go with a true 10-12" lift and leave it "flat". You should love it that way and upgrade the steering as well.
 

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haz 12"s!
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Discussion Starter #7
What does upgrading the steering consist of? Ill eventually get the Ford Keys to help level it out, but the bed is always full of tools (im in residential construction) so it sits about level anyways. I doubt ill want bigger, I have to load and unload tools from the bed everyday I work and I dont need too bad of MPG since I drive so much. It was bad enough when I used to pull a 5x8 (almost $600/ month :( )
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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you dont need that much lift for 36's. and why so damn wide?
 

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I am all for the FTS kits (I sell the hell out of them, got one on my truck). The kits are 100% 1/4" plate on the drops (right where it counts). By going with the 9.5" kit you will keep all steering, & CV axle geometry the same as with the 6.6" kit. The only thing that has a more severe angle is the D-Line, which is why the 9.5" kit comes with a ne one. The upgraded steering is a heim joint steering system(bulletproof in comparison to the factory tie rods), which when coupled with the Uniball upper control arm addresses all of the most common part failures associated with these front ends.
A 3" body lift leaves a lot of frame exposed which is not very attractive.
let me know if you are interested, got those kits ready to rock. I can do a custom powder coat aswell, any color.
badhabitcustomssig.jpg
 

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haz 12"s!
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Discussion Starter #10
you dont need that much lift for 36's. and why so damn wide?
Ive seen them from the front and loved them. Ive never seen a 13.5 or 12.5 from the front. I do know the stock size is very stupid looking IMHO. I was going to get some flares too to help with the look. Here in FL, we dont have the tire law. From everything Ive read, you do need that much lift unless you run the stock wheels.
 

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haz 12"s!
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Discussion Starter #11
I am all for the FTS kits (I sell the hell out of them, got one on my truck). The kits are 100% 1/4" plate on the drops (right where it counts). By going with the 9.5" kit you will keep all steering, & CV axle geometry the same as with the 6.6" kit. The only thing that has a more severe angle is the D-Line, which is why the 9.5" kit comes with a ne one. The upgraded steering is a heim joint steering system(bulletproof in comparison to the factory tie rods), which when coupled with the Uniball upper control arm addresses all of the most common part failures associated with these front ends.
A 3" body lift leaves a lot of frame exposed which is not very attractive.
let me know if you are interested, got those kits ready to rock. I can do a custom powder coat aswell, any color.
badhabitcustomssig.jpg

I bet that isnt too cheap. I dont like the 3" BL in the rear, but gap guards cover that. Shoot me a PM on price for cusrositys sake. 04 Sierra 1/2 ton 4x4 with autotrac.
 
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you dont need that much lift for 36's. and why so damn wide?
I didn't think about that Marcus. If you only plan to go with 36's you don't need a 10-12" lift kit for that. Also for a daily driver I don't know if I would go INCREDIBLE wide on the tires. Just a few things to think about.
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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in reference to country boy.
Not really man, just wider you go more lift is required, or cutting your descision.
 

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Cognito 10" hands dowm imo
 

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The 6" kit + the 3" body lift will be cheaper if you can do your own install. If not, you will most likely get screwed for having two separate installs done. Around here, a suspension install is $600-$700 and a body lift install is $500.

So, if you can't install either one yourself, you might be better off just going with an FTS or Cognito 10" suspension kit. The pricing will be close since you'll only have to pay for one install. (Just don't add any extras or any fancy powdercoating and stick with the basic shocks.)

For referance, here's my old truck with the 10" FTS kit on 36x14.50 tires. The wheels were 16x10s:
StudyGuides218.gif

StudyGuides217.gif
 

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haz 12"s!
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Discussion Starter #16
Thats the look I like! Ill be doing my own installs so no shop labor.
 

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If you can do your own installs, then the cheapest route would be a 6" suspension and a 3" body lift.

You can find a 6" Pro Comp for $1250, a 3" body for $300, & have a high angle front driveshaft built for $300. So, for $1850 you'd be rolling on 9" of lift. Then add your tires and gears in.

The basic Cognito 10-12" kit is $2,200. Add $300 for a driveline and you're up to $2,500. And this doesn't even include all of the extra options they offer or any rear lift. Add another $600-$800 just to lift the rear. The FTS kits are similar in pricing.


Basically, the susp/body route will save you $1200 at least.
 

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The 6" kit + the 3" body lift will be cheaper if you can do your own install. If not, you will most likely get screwed for having two separate installs done. Around here, a suspension install is $600-$700 and a body lift install is $500.

So, if you can't install either one yourself, you might be better off just going with an FTS or Cognito 10" suspension kit. The pricing will be close since you'll only have to pay for one install. (Just don't add any extras or any fancy powdercoating and stick with the basic shocks.)

For referance, here's my old truck with the 10" FTS kit on 36x14.50 tires. The wheels were 16x10s:
StudyGuides218.gif

StudyGuides217.gif

Damn the goin rate for install here is 300 for BL and 500 for suspension lift!

If I was gunna drive the truck that much I think I would just buy a nice true 6" and not crank it at all and run some 35"s
 
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