I'll make this simple.......until you get new wheels nothing else matters. You need a much higher offset wheel to run 24's on these trucks.
Body dropping an 03 on 24s. Needing advice.
Okay guys first off you all, are pretty much my only resource for clear answers on this subject. Some questions may sound pretty stupid, or have already been covered on here, but just bare with me because I want to double check on a couple things, and others I just wanna see what is recommended. Thanks for all the help so far.
I decided to channel it on 24s. My wheels are 24x9, +15 offset, tires will be 275/30/24 toyo proxes 4s.
What size bags do you guys run up front, and anyone have pics of what was done for clearance?
Where could I pick up a good hydro booster at?
Anyone know approximately how much my axle will be narrowed and will it interfere with my frame?
Wat 2 or 4 link and notch sizes you guys running?
Anyone used an cantilever adapter on an ART parallel 4 link?
Like I said bare with me I want to do this the right way and have a reliable daily driver. My truck has the ART parallel 4 link with firestone sleeve bags on the axle. The top bag bracket is on the outside of the frame beside my notches (notches do not rise above the topside the frame rail since im only on 20s now) So im sure it will have to be re-bagged out back and up front the upper control arm mount will be raised an inch. Thanks again and keep that good advice a comin'!
I decided to channel it on 24s. My wheels are 24x9, +15 offset, tires will be 275/30/24 toyo proxes 4s.
What size bags do you guys run up front, and anyone have pics of what was done for clearance?
Where could I pick up a good hydro booster at?
Anyone know approximately how much my axle will be narrowed and will it interfere with my frame?
Wat 2 or 4 link and notch sizes you guys running?
Anyone used an cantilever adapter on an ART parallel 4 link?
Like I said bare with me I want to do this the right way and have a reliable daily driver. My truck has the ART parallel 4 link with firestone sleeve bags on the axle. The top bag bracket is on the outside of the frame beside my notches (notches do not rise above the topside the frame rail since im only on 20s now) So im sure it will have to be re-bagged out back and up front the upper control arm mount will be raised an inch. Thanks again and keep that good advice a comin'!
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The only way you will know how much you can narrow your axle before it interferes with the frame or 4-link is if you throw the truck on jackstands, throw the wheels on and whip out the tape measure. In front you will want to tub and swap the vacuum brakes for a hydroboost. You can get one on eBay, on here sometimes, or at a junkyard off an HD truck(someone correct me if I'm wrong on this). Again to find the size of your notch, you will need to measure and do some math.
I haven't done any of this myself just yet, but you learn shit just by reading through people's posts and their builds. Do more research.
I haven't done any of this myself just yet, but you learn shit just by reading through people's posts and their builds. Do more research.
Not to sound like a dick or anything but you need to do some more searching on here. I can think of two people off the top of my head that have build threads on here doing what you are asking. Dajizz is a good source of info.
-new wheels
-hydroboost
-relocate fuse box
- tub firewall
and the list goes on..SEARCH
-new wheels
-hydroboost
-relocate fuse box
- tub firewall
and the list goes on..SEARCH
Ok I appreciate the help. I don't really have a lot of time to search around on here because of my extremely busy schedule (60+hr week job, and student, sharing a computer with a family etc.) And I've seen a few trucks running +15 offset with 24s and even sickgmc running 26s with the +15 offset so I know its possible. Anyone with the specific info please speak up because I really hate all the wheels I've seen with the 25-35 offset.
If you have that little time,how are you going to do this? The wiring alone took me 2 days for fuse box.Be sure you want to get into somthing like this or pay someone else.At a full custom shop working after my real job and every day of every weekend It took 9 months to get driving again.Billet wheels or get wheels before you start,build the truck to fit the wheel.It will be much easier
most 24s come with a low offset(around 15mm) and a high offset(around 30mm). no matter what wheel you go with youre going to have to narrow your axle or get some forged or billet wheels built to your specs.Ok I appreciate the help. I don't really have a lot of time to search around on here because of my extremely busy schedule (60+hr week job, and student, sharing a computer with a family etc.) And I've seen a few trucks running +15 offset with 24s and even sickgmc running 26s with the +15 offset so I know its possible. Anyone with the specific info please speak up because I really hate all the wheels I've seen with the 25-35 offset.
sickgmc and the others you menstioned are probably running a +30 offset with a narrowed axle.
i would prolly just try to get it layin frame on 24s first and then body drop it...because body dropping is alot more involved than just making it lay
Oh i know that for sure bro, the only thing I'm doing is gutting it and replacing the fans small wiring little shit, leaving the major work to a friend who is certified and very experienced. I probably should've have mentioned that. lol I'm no fabricator and my welds would probably hold like super glue. lol
Freeman narrowed his axle 3 inches to tuck 24x10s with a +30 offset. If you plan to keep the +15 offset wheels look into doing a custom setup with everything inside the frame rails bc you will have to narrow your axle close to the point of your wheels hugging the frame. In the front you will probably have to narrow the track width to clear the fender lip to lay. Sell the wheels and get new ones unless you got the time and money laying around. Most body drops take almost a week to complete if you work non stop
I've spoke with sickgmc thru email his are definetly +15 and 26x10s on a 25 series tire up front 30 series on the rear. his axle is narrowed 6 inches. I have no problem narrowing the axle and I have discussed sickgmcs set up with him, just exploring my options thats all.most 24s come with a low offset(around 15mm) and a high offset(around 30mm). no matter what wheel you go with youre going to have to narrow your axle or get some forged or billet wheels built to your specs.
sickgmc and the others you menstioned are probably running a +30 offset with a narrowed axle.
I forgot to mention his isn't body dropped although most of you have seen him around on here and already know that. lets keep the info rolling!!!I've spoke with sickgmc thru email his are definetly +15 and 26x10s on a 25 series tire up front 30 series on the rear. his axle is narrowed 6 inches. I have no problem narrowing the axle and I have discussed sickgmcs set up with him, just exploring my options thats all.
not yet lol. i got some plans hear soon!I forgot to mention his isn't body dropped although most of you have seen him around on here and already know that. lets keep the info rolling!!!
I know lol but I was stating that before someone else did. Your getting the full frame correct?not yet lol. i got some plans hear soon!
lol it cool. yes thats correct hope to get it going soonI know lol but I was stating that before someone else did. Your getting the full frame correct?
Hell yeah can't wait to see that, Be sure to take mad pics of the build for us hard headed guys trying to run low offsets lol. See I KNOW if yours can be done with the big ass 26s my 24s should tuck right in. I really don't wanna sell my wheels. lollol it cool. yes thats correct hope to get it going soon
i also narrowed the front 1" per side because they would hit the fenders at full lift. No way my wheels would have worked on my truck if it wasnt narrowed both front and back. Of coarse my body drop is a little bigger than most though.Freeman narrowed his axle 3 inches to tuck 24x10s with a +30 offset. If you plan to keep the +15 offset wheels look into doing a custom setup with everything inside the frame rails bc you will have to narrow your axle close to the point of your wheels hugging the frame. In the front you will probably have to narrow the track width to clear the fender lip to lay. Sell the wheels and get new ones unless you got the time and money laying around. Most body drops take almost a week to complete if you work non stop
I do have 10" wheels though and yours are 9" so i think that makes up the difference. Good luck with the build and make sure you post up some pics during the build!
Thanks man, yours is to the doors so it's BD'D around 5.5 inches right? I like the idea of narrowing the front so I can ride almost layed out but I gotta keep this on somewhat of a budget. But if it has to be done I will just have to save up a lil more cash. I'm pretty sure it's gonna work, I'm only channeling it so it's 2.75 inches of bd. It will be awhile before it goes under the knife bc I gotta buy some more parts. I will def. post up pics, as it progresses, thanks again.i also narrowed the front 1" per side because they would hit the fenders at full lift. No way my wheels would have worked on my truck if it wasnt narrowed both front and back. Of coarse my body drop is a little bigger than most though.
I do have 10" wheels though and yours are 9" so i think that makes up the difference. Good luck with the build and make sure you post up some pics during the build!
body drop and budget should not be used in the same sentance.
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