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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #1
Well one thing I havnt figured out but shouldnt be a real big deal is how Im going to work brake lines. My 14 bolt has NO lines at all. It needs everything. Not sure about the front. I would like to use braided SS lines from the axle to the vehicle. I guess on the axle you can just get the steel tubing and bend it. Where should I look? What connectors do I need? I really dont know anything about this so any help would be apreciated.
 

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This is one area that kicked my butt when doing mine but I learned a whole lot over the time redoing my entire trucks braking system. I'm leaving now but when I get back I'll tell you exactly what you need and where to get it for cheap.
 

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Okie dokie here we goskie:

Front:

Parts needed per side:

40276 --- Afco 3/8 - 24 IF to -4 AN Adapter x1 @ $3.79
40257 --- AFCO 3/8" Banjo to -4 AN Adapter x1 @ $7.59
40258 --- AFCO 3/8" - 24 Banjo Bolts x1 @ $5.59
40262-36 --- AFCO -4 AN 36" Long Stainless Braided Line x1 @ $16.10

You will take the #40276 adapter and thread it onto the hard line that is on your frame at each front wheel. Then take the #40257 and attache it to your caliper with the #40258 bolts. Then use the #40262-36 hose to connect them. I used the 36" long hose on my truck but yours may need shorter or longer, just replace the -36 at the end of the part # with whatever one you need from the list below:

-12
-15
-18
-21
-24
-30
-36
-42
-48
-60

Remember, you will need to order 2 of everything above, one for each front wheel.



REAR:

Parts needed:

40272 --- AFCO Caliper Adapter x2 @ $4.60
40262-12 --- AFCO 12" Braided -4 Line x2 @ $9.85
40276 --- AFCO 3/8 - 24 IF to -4 AN Adapter x3 @ $3.79
40260 --- AFCO Brake Fitting Clip x1 @ $3.29
40602 --- AFCO 30" 3/16" Hard Line x1 @ $3.09
40251 --- AFCO 3/16" IF T Fitting x1 @ $2.69
40243 --- AFCO 3/8 -24 IF to -4 AN x1 @ $3.35
40262-36 --- AFCO -4 AN 36" Long Stainless Braided Line x1 @ $16.10

You will take one each of the #40272 and thread one into each caliper. Then take the #40262-12 and thread it onto the #40272 you just installed at each caliper. Thread a #40276 onto each hose. Now take the #40602 hard line and thread one into each of the #40276 fittings. Route and bend the hard lines so they both end up on top of the diff housing. Thread them both into opposite ends of the #40615 T. Thread the #40243 into the 3rd port on the T. Thread the #40262-36 onto the #40243. Thread the #40276 onto the other end of the #40262-36 and then thread the hard line on your frame into this.

Again, I used the 36" long hose but order whatever fits your application.

The only thing in all that that I am not positive on is the hard line at the back of your frame, it could be a 3/8 fitting or a 7/16 fitting. Just order the 7/16 to -4 AN adapter instead of the 3/8 to -4 AN that I listed if it is the larger, mine was 3/8".


Now with all that out of the way, lets talk ABS. I was never happy with my ABS system with the SFA swap, the ABS part didn't work due to no wheel sensors in the front and I always had an ABS light on my dash on. So, I purchased a proportioning valve from Off Road Unlimited and replaced my entire ABS computer system with this valve. I just re-bent the existing hard lines to fit it and replaced a few fittings. You will have to rent the double flare tool at Autozone to replace a few of the 3/8" fittings with the larger 7/16 and 1/2" fittings but thats all. Again, this is not needed but my braking improved dramatically with it.


Next, is the master cylinder. Your stock front brake calipers are what are called low drag calipers. Which means the pads are pulled completely off of the rotor while not applied. This requires more fluid to be sent into the calipers to take up the space when you apply the brakes and this is done with what is called a "Quick Takeup Valve" in the master cylinder. This does not work well with the regular Dayton calipers on the ford axles, or any axles for that matter. Not to mention the stock MC is just small for the huge dual piston calipers and rear discs. I upgraded to the Ultimate Master Cylinder #61412 from ORU at the same time I ripped my ABS system out. The fittings are the same, it's just a direct bolt-in replacement and works much nicer. Much smoother braking in front and decreased pad wear.

Hope this helped :)
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #4
Damn - thats awsome. I can definatly work with that. I dont know what i'll do about the ABS, depends on how expensive it is to do what you did. How much was the new master cylinder? Also is it 100% nessisary to do the cylinder swap?
 

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Not 100% but your front pads will probably wear down quickly... MC is $169 and I can't remember how much the propo valve was but it wasn't much.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #6
Ill see if I can afford that at the time of the swap - if not ill do it when I can afford it. I gatta check and see if those caliper adapters will work for the back ones because I have a weird disck brake setup. The calipers are like from a 70s jeep.
 

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Hmm, maybe they have a non-hydroboost model... I doubt your vacuum boost setup would be powerful enough to work the larger MC. I forgot you didn't have hydroboost. Nevermind.
 
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