My truck is SLOW!
Would I need a c-notch if I lowered my truck 3/5?
If you want to go 2/4 or 3/5 that's cool. My 3/5 hardly ever scrubbed anywhere. But where I live is different from where you do too. You can do the 3/5 and always notch later on to save some money. I didn't notch at first either. But you'll have to have those button bumps stops for the rear. You can drive a 3/5 pretty much like a 2/4. Almost. There are some others on here as well with a 3/5 setup too. I dropped my rear to a 6.5 a few months back when I notched. Also another thing to consider between the 2/4 or 4/6 is the cost of going to a 4/6 from a 2/4. Because you will have to have your stock hangers and shackles in the rear if you go with a flip kit for the rear. The prices between the two kits are about the same I think too. http://www.stylinconcepts.com/parts.cfm?brand=&brandid=0&categoryid=30&color=&filterword=&iconview=0&orderby=0&partfamilyid=775&subcategoryid=206leochevy2001 said:I was thinking that I would need a notch with a 3/5 drop and that is why I asked. The only thing I am afraid of if I lower my truck more than a 2/4 that I will scrape all the time. The entrance to where I work is steep and so is the driveway to my house and I have seen steeper entrances. I have never had a lowered truck so I am not used to driving one. I was thinking about lowering my truck 3/4 but like how groundscraper and 03carbondogg stated, "why not just lower it 4/6?" Since it would be better to notch the frame with a 3/5 drop I might as well drop it 4/6 but I just don't know about notching the frame right now. Anothering thing is cost. How much more would it cost me to have a 4/6 drop installed over a 2/4 or something that doesn't need a notch? A 2/4 drop could be done myself with the help of some others while a 4/6 would be left to a more professional installer.