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Discussion Starter #1
What is the going rate to do a cam swap and a tune?
I live here Mesa; AZ is there any good shops to a cam swap?
 

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What is the going rate to do a cam swap and a tune?
I live here Mesa; AZ is there any good shops to a cam swap?
Have you ever worked on cars before? It's a very simple swap. If you do it yourself you can save some money, not a lot of shops work on LS based motors and probably would charge you a boatload
 

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Thats a good question Matthew. I don't know the answer. But most performance shops work on 4 bolt small blocks and things of that nature. A LS specific shop is hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you ever worked on cars before? It's a very simple swap. If you do it yourself you can save some money, not a lot of shops work on LS based motors and probably would charge you a boatload
Yes, I have worked on cars befor. I've built TWo from the ground up. In the old day to ajust your lifters you could do while truck was running. Now you have to do buy hand and if you never didn't before can be pain. The cam swap not the hard parts its replaceing the vavle springs. Do you know what cams you can use with stock springs or no matter what I'll have to upgrade?
 

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Yes, I have worked on cars befor. I've built TWo from the ground up. In the old day to ajust your lifters you could do while truck was running. Now you have to do buy hand and if you never didn't before can be pain. The cam swap not the hard parts its replaceing the vavle springs. Do you know what cams you can use with stock springs or no matter what I'll have to upgrade?
no cam you upgrade to that is worth the swap will be useable with stock springs. The springs arent the hard part of this cam swap :imo. Just time consuming. Get yourself a good spring compressor and you will be fine :shake: Swap should take about 4-8 hours, unless of course you break the crank pulley like I did and it ends up taking you 2 days :crazy:
 

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no cam you upgrade to that is worth the swap will be useable with stock springs. The springs arent the hard part of this cam swap :imo. Just time consuming. Get yourself a good spring compressor and you will be fine :shake: Swap should take about 4-8 hours, unless of course you break the crank pulley like I did and it ends up taking you 2 days :crazy:
Is there any book on doing cam swap? Did you remove the heads or did get a air tool to compress the cylinder to hold the valve in place? I'll have think about for while before i try this. I guess I’m going to be doing so research.
I guess it would be easyer if i know somebody had done it before.
 

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I'm mechanically inclined and did my cam and spring swap in 4 hours. I did use air tools but if you have done internal engine work before then you can do your cam and spring swap in a day. Its rather easier.

Here is a write up for an Fbody but just use common sense to figure out the difference between an Fbody and our trucks.

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

...all the info you need is there.

edit: you do not have to remove the heads or intake to do a cam swap on an LSx engine. Its the beauty of our engines :D
 

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Yes, I have worked on cars befor. I've built TWo from the ground up. In the old day to ajust your lifters you could do while truck was running. Now you have to do buy hand and if you never didn't before can be pain. The cam swap not the hard parts its replaceing the vavle springs. Do you know what cams you can use with stock springs or no matter what I'll have to upgrade?
Setting up the lifters/rockers on these engines is a breeze. Torque all rocker bolts down to 22ft-lbs, spin the crank 180*, check torque and you're done.

When I swapped my springs, I used the TDC method for holding the valves up. They'll move 1/2" (or less if you have something in the cylinder holding them up). Do two cylinders, rotate 90* two more, etc.
 

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yup, cam swap is easy on the GenIII. theres also a valve spring tool made especially for the LSx based engines. I think I saw it for sale on LS1tech.com
 

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yup, cam swap is easy on the GenIII. theres also a valve spring tool made especially for the LSx based engines. I think I saw it for sale on LS1tech.com


I've got it if anyone wants to borrow or make a copy of it. :imo
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm mechanically inclined and did my cam and spring swap in 4 hours. I did use air tools but if you have done internal engine work before then you can do your cam and spring swap in a day. Its rather easier.

Here is a write up for an Fbody but just use common sense to figure out the difference between an Fbody and our trucks.

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

...all the info you need is there.

edit: you do not have to remove the heads or intake to do a cam swap on an LSx engine. Its the beauty of our engines :D
Thanks guys for you help. The link help allot now I just got to pick cam. I have 2002 ext. cab 5.3L. What do you guys think about this cams tr224i/224e 114lsa or tr224i/224e 112lsa and also keep in mind the truck almost has 120,000miles on it. Is there any body running this spec. When I rebuilt my tranny I don't want to bigger than 2600 stall max. I still have to be able to tow a trailer.
 

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Thanks guys for you help. The link help allot now I just got to pick cam. I have 2002 ext. cab 5.3L. What do you guys think about this cams tr224i/224e 114lsa or tr224i/224e 112lsa and also keep in mind the truck almost has 120,000miles on it. Is there any body running this spec. When I rebuilt my tranny I don't want to bigger than 2600 stall max. I still have to be able to tow a trailer.

I was looking Thunder Racing and there cam and springs are approx. and push rods ($700.00). Where did you guys get you cams ans ect. from?
 

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AZ Power and Sound, XTreme Motorsports, Arizona Speed and Marine are three shops in AZ that I remember off the top of my head. Cam swap and tune would probably run you $1000-1500. AZPS works with a local tuner named Nic, he has a pretty good reputation. I'd offer to help but I don't have time and I'm tired of working on my own crap, much less someone else's. I have a buddy who might be willing to do it for you though for a lot cheaper than a shop. He doesn't do tuning, but he might be able to save you some $$ on the cam swap. Send me a PM if you're interested and I'll give you his number.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
AZ Power and Sound, XTreme Motorsports, Arizona Speed and Marine are three shops in AZ that I remember off the top of my head. Cam swap and tune would probably run you $1000-1500. AZPS works with a local tuner named Nic, he has a pretty good reputation. I'd offer to help but I don't have time and I'm tired of working on my own crap, much less someone else's. I have a buddy who might be willing to do it for you though for a lot cheaper than a shop. He doesn't do tuning, but he might be able to save you some $$ on the cam swap. Send me a PM if you're interested and I'll give you his number.
Do these shop sell cams also?
 

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I was looking Thunder Racing and there cam and springs are approx. and push rods ($700.00). Where did you guys get you cams ans ect. from?


Look around for better deals.



LS6 springs are what I'd run for street cams, good to .550-.570 lift.

TrickFlow 5/16" 7.4" length pushrods

Gaskets local

Pick up a used cam. Hyd rollers show virtually zero wear.
 

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Look around for better deals.



LS6 springs are what I'd run for street cams, good to .550-.570 lift.

TrickFlow 5/16" 7.4" length pushrods

Gaskets local

Pick up a used cam. Hyd rollers show virtually zero wear.
this man knows his stuff...him and matt (xlcooplx) found me a nice lil package a few months ago. $400 for a slightly used cam (212/218 112lsa low lift, like 500 miles) chromo pushrods (brand new) and slightly used comp 915s (about 2000 miles). that is somewhere around 750$ worth of stuff new.

ls6 springs can be had for right about 58$ shipped for a set from GMPD, and like eric said, are good to somewhere around .560-.570 lift. Some of the gaskets are designed so that they can be reused, so that cuts down costs. i was recommended to get a timing cover gasket, water pump gaskets, and a new crank bolt...also, you will want to invest in a longer than stock crank bolt for pulling the crank back on w/o ripping out the threads. some have done it with the stocker, but for 5$ for a longer one, it was money well spent to not have to worry about stripping out crank threads. the water pump gaskets and crank bolt are dirt cheap through GMPD.
 
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