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Discussion Starter #1
upper control arm cams.... can i remove the pins and use a prybar to adjust the upper control arms to get more movement?.... i am tired of 2.0 degrees with camplates already installed on my djm 4/6 drop... now that i think about it i wonder if it dropped lower.. does anyone have the measurement fender to spindle?

thanks
 

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I likez Suspensionz
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Welcome to the shitty world of djm, where if you do not buy the whole kit, you are going to have alignment issues. Go buy they're upper arms and everything should change.
 

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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Welcome to the shitty world of djm, where if you do not buy the whole kit, you are going to have alignment issues. Go buy they're upper arms and everything should change.
That was going to be my first question, if he had the correct upper arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the shitty world of djm, where if you do not buy the whole kit, you are going to have alignment issues. Go buy they're upper arms and everything should change.
when i got this kit i was not told about the upper control arms... i thought i had everything i needed... :(
 

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I likez Suspensionz
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this is why i am wondering how much more movement there is in those slots.... if i remove the pins
You could just remove the cams instead of cutting them off. Without the pins the cams aren't doing anything.

However, you can't just slide them as far forward as possible because it will mess up caster
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You could just remove the cams instead of cutting them off. Without the pins the cams aren't doing anything.

However, you can't just slide them as far forward as possible because it will mess up caster

caster is 5 something degrees anyways.. i could take the pins out of them all and just adjust as needed
 

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I likez Suspensionz
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caster is 5 something degrees anyways.. i could take the pins out of them all and just adjust as needed
You're not understanding me. You have the pins on your uca mounts. Without the pins, your cam plates are doing nothing but acting like a washer. So if you just removed the cam plates you would get the same result as if you left them and cut the pins out
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You're not understanding me. You have the pins on your uca mounts. Without the pins, your cam plates are doing nothing but acting like a washer. So if you just removed the cam plates you would get the same result as if you left them and cut the pins out
no i understand... the pins are a guide for the "cams".... so if i remove them i cant "adjust" by turning the bolt.. i am talkin about jamming a pry bar up there and maxing out the "adjustment" if u will.. just didnt know any one thats done it thats all.. i have been working for a dealer for 12 years (ase/toyota/lexus master) i know that doesnt mean shit its just paper lol BUT.. just didnt really want to put bushings in it would rather not... and with the quality of the lower control arms i would rather not put the uppers on!!. .
 

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I likez Suspensionz
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Then scrap the shit and go the better route with spindles and springs. Also the whole big baer brakes not allowing you to use spindles like you said in you other thread isn't true. You can do it. There's guys running it and the even the bigger 16" wilwood kit. Djm is shit but either using the djm uppers, misalignment bushings or cuatom made uppers are the only options. Cutting the pins off is a bad route to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Then scrap the shit and go the better route with spindles and springs. Also the whole big baer brakes not allowing you to use spindles like you said in you other thread isn't true. You can do it. There's guys running it and the even the bigger 16" wilwood kit. Djm is shit but either using the djm uppers, misalignment bushings or cuatom made uppers are the only options. Cutting the pins off is a bad route to go.
who knows i might just go make me a set of uppers lol.. would have to be better then djm's lol.. the stock uppers are aluminum right? ... now i know from most factory parts not a good idea to modify them/weld cause there pot/cast what ever right?
 

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I likez Suspensionz
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who knows i might just go make me a set of uppers lol.. would have to be better then djm's lol.. the stock uppers are aluminum right? ... now i know from most factory parts not a good idea to modify them/weld cause there pot/cast what ever right?
The stock uppers are something you definitely don't want to modify.
 

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Burning Rubber
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you can drill out the upper CA Mounts just a hair on each side with a die grinder or dremel. it's not recommended, but i did it. and when i say just a hair, i'm talking millimeters if you don't reinforce it. anything much more than that, and you could be asking for trouble.

if you want to get it close without djm uppers, get the 2* off center bushings. I can see how flipping the uca's would help w/ balljoint stress, but i havent tried it... Oh, and i recommend flipping the tie rods no matter what with 4" lca's.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you can drill out the upper CA Mounts just a hair on each side with a die grinder or dremel. it's not recommended, but i did it. and when i say just a hair, i'm talking millimeters if you don't reinforce it. anything much more than that, and you could be asking for trouble.

if you want to get it close without djm uppers, get the 2* off center bushings. I can see how flipping the uca's would help w/ balljoint stress, but i havent tried it... Oh, and i recommend flipping the tie rods no matter what with 4" lca's.
to bad no one sells the flip kit any more for the tie rods
 

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Tuckin' Tire Static
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Dude just buy a set of McG 2" drop spindles and 2" drop coils. Will be so much better and a lot less headacke.
 

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you realize the only thing you have to buy to flip tierods is a ream bit right?
Uh, you sure about that? If it is already tapered like this \/and you taper it like this /\ to flip the tie rod, you will end up with this X, a taper at both ends, and I would not be comfortable with that personally. Every tie rod flip I have ever seen involved drilling the hole out bigger and either threading in or welding in a tapered slug in the hole.
 
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