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yes or no....is there a noticable power difference....how much are they.....and what would i be looking at for install prices..anyone know ......also what brands are good
 

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I don't own a lowrider
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I believe farmtruc was talking about putting LS1 cams in 5.3's for a cheap upgrade with some noticable power increase. I've seen them on ebay for 20 bucks or so, so if you do the labor yourself you'd get off pretty cheap. Does anybody know how much it would cost to have one installed by a shop? Would the LS1 cam even be a good upgrade on an otherwise stock 5.3?
 

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03 Tahoe
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Joshs2002Silverado said:
yes or no....is there a noticable power difference....how much are they.....and what would i be looking at for install prices..anyone know ......also what brands are good
That ? has a lot of holes in it. There are millions of profiles and grinds out there and some create torque and some create HP and some do both. They very much can increase performance and power....just depends on which one you choose.

Like Y2KSierra mentioned...the LS1 is a nice mild upgrade....may be a good start. What kinda power are you looking for?

Cameron
 

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I have heard that if you still want to run the stock injectors an heads you can only put a mild cam in it. Other wise if make a big change you have to change your injectors, heads an other stuff. But I dont know if that is true. Any one else know more?
 

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To hell with BHO!!
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The Comp 54-412-11 is a good choice. 212/218 .522/.529 114lsa. Mild lift, and split duration. Have a slight lope too. Not a big gain in low-end. But really pulls at around 1800RPM's. This is the cam I bought. With a good tune you could see maybe 35-40hp over stock. I have heard and seen alot of good things with this cam. There is a high lift verison on this cam. .558/.563, but it will kick your power a little higher into the RPM band. Comp also has a 206/212 .525/.532 on a 112lsa. With avery strong low-end and a very noticable lope. May need a tune to run properly. Few people like to go with the LS6 cam because of price. But it needs a stall. I just dont think its well suited for a heavy truck that needs low-end. The 02 LS6 cam will be a high revvin biatch with a 117.5lsa! With the 212/218 .522/.529 you can run 02 LS6 springs instead of Comp 918's. The 918's are make the valvetrain nice and noisy. Plus the lift of the cam wont evenuse the full potential of the 918's. 918's wear out fairly quick from what I heard. I went with the LS6 springs because they are a bit more forgiving on the valvetrain and will take up to .550 lift. You dont need to replace pushrods if you dont want to. Some consider it an inexpensive insurance policy. It isnt necessary but you can if you like. When it comes down to it, if a problem arose that would cause a pushrod to bend. I would rather a rod bend than a valve because the pushrods are so strong. This point was given to me by a few cammed LM7 owners on LS1Tech. You can also replace your timing chain with a Rollmaster dual, replace the oil pump with a ported/blueprinted LS6 pump and even replace valve seals while your in there. Possibilities are somewhat endless. All depends on the amount of cash you want to drop. I would look into Comps grinds before I bought the LS1 or LS6 cam. My 2 cents. :naughty:

Ive got a friend with an 03 RCSB 5.3 Rado who put a Comp 215/215 .555/.555 115lsa in his truck. He runs Raging Motorsports in KC. So far hes got a UPD intake, ASP, 4.10's, cutout and the cam. He rolled 322rwhp/313rwtq. Not too shabby in my opinion!

As for prices, this is an estimate. I just threw together prices I have compiled from places I looked at cam swap parts and such.

Cam - $350-$400
02 LS6 Springs #12565313 - $4.91/per
Comp 7.4" hardened pushrods - $100 (not necessary)
Water Pump Gaskets #12557840 (need 2) - $2.17/per
Timing Cover Gasket #12558013 - $5.53
Front Crank Seal #12561244 - $9.70
Crank Pulley Bolt #12557840 - $2.19
Installation (guessing here) - $300-$500

Exh. Valve Seal Kit #12457652 - $8.97
Int. Valve Seal Kit #12533586 - $9.76
Comp 918 springs - $169
ASP Underdrive pulley (stock pulley is off so why not) - $200
 

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Your truck probably pulls pretty well at take off and mid range, if you want to keep that same power but extend it throughout the entire rpm range, put the ls1 cam in.
Like the others said, it's a very cheap upgrade, no need for tuning, (except shift points), and the only cost is the cam and gaskets.

You can get away with stock injectors with a full exhaust, cam and tuning, and probably some worked heads, however it would be a good idea to install some 30lb's from the 8.1L engine. That's a easy upgrade too.

keep us updated,

allen
 

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My name's not Kevin
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Will the LS1 cam work in a 4.8?

Joshs2002Silverado, You might want to check and see if aftermarket cams are Ca. smog legal. Not sure, but that would be a major pain in the ass if it won't pass smog.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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How hard is it to instal a cam? If I can get one for 20 bucks and then gaskets I might be intrested in it. The Nelsons tune should be the only other thing I need right? I dont want to loose low end - if anything gain more.
 

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The ls1 cam will work in all genIII engines.

It's pretty easy to install, however, i see in your pick Dark Eternal you have a big truck, you might not want to loose the little bit of lowend, but it is just a tad loss, but the mid and high end gains are worth the swap.

allen
 

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I might be wrong but when i was reading up on the ls1 f-bodies and vetts everyone said that the cars had the 5.3l truck cam in them, but i could be rong. And if you want more performance try a ls6 cam or a thunder racing old mancam, or if you could get the came out of the new gto its spose to have mad bottom end to it.
 

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To hell with BHO!!
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farmtruc said:
Ya, go with comp cams, somewhere around a 212-218, 530lift, 114 lsa, that will work in your truck,

try, www.ls1howto.com

later,

allen
Comps 212/218 .522/.529 114 is a good cam to go with. Slight improvment in low-end. Really starts screaming around I just wouldnt go with any high lift numbers. That and stay away from cams with a high LSA (Lobe Seperation Angle) in a big truck. High LSA will kill your bottom end without a higher stall verter. The LS6 cams, depending on year, have a pretty high LSA.

01 ZO6 Cam 204/211 .525/.525 116
02 ZO6 Cam 204/218 .551/.555 117.5
03 ZO6 Cam 204/218 .551/.555 117.5


Dark Eternal,

Comps 206/212 .515/.522 112LSA might be a good cam for you. Has a real strong low-end versus the stock cam! Power range is like 800-5800RPM if I remember right. It will have a noticable lope to it due to the 112LSA. But Ill bet it would be well suited in your truck.
 

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a.k.a. turbodan
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i just bought a 01 ZO6 cam and springs off Blown02 from ls1truck.com. we'll see how it comes out next weekend when it goes in.
specs are:
0.525, 0.525, 211 exhaust, 204 intake, 116 lsa
 

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To hell with BHO!!
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fullthrottledan said:
i just bought a 01 ZO6 cam and springs off Blown02 from ls1truck.com. we'll see how it comes out next weekend when it goes in.
specs are:
0.525, 0.525, 211 exhaust, 204 intake, 116 lsa
Oh I bet youll like it!!! :head:
 

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hey 99silver5.3: What kind of cam can I get (cheaply) that will give my truck a good loop, but only loose a COUPLE MPG? Also what all is involved in changing out the cams in the 5.3's?
Thanks,
Justin
 

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To hell with BHO!!
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I dont really know of a cheap cam that would give some lope. I think I remember somebody telling me that the LS6 cam will lope some but Im not sure. The cam change isnt really hard just time consuming. Check out LS1HowTo.com for an illustrated cam swap article. Take the radiator out, crank pulley comes off, water pump off, timing cover off, timing chain off, timing gear off, etc. I have a buddy with a used 2000 LS1 cam he isnt going to use in his truck. No spring change or anything with it. Just swap out the old and in with the new. Specs are 207/198 .500/.500 115.5LSA. Should have a power range of about 2500-6000RPM. But it wont have any lope to it. But maybe a 20RWHP gain with a good tune. Its is relatively cheap power!

This is a list of things you can do if you want with the cam.

Cam (of course)
Valve springs
7.4" Hardened pushrods
Titanium retainers
Ported LS6 oil pump
Rollmaster double roller timing chain/gears
ASP crank underdrive pulley
2 water pump gaskets
Timing cover gasket
Front main seal
Crank pulley bolt
Intake/exhaust valve seals

Not all of the above is a necessity. But if you have a high mileage motor it may be a good idea to replace things while your in there. Depending on the cams lift specs you will need new springs. The stockers can take maybe .500 lift. Comp Cams 918 springs are a possibility, but in my opinion not a great idea. They need ample warm-up time after you start the truck. Or else, springy breaky! The 918's make the valvetrain really noisy and chattery which I did not want. Ive seen just a few cases where the 918's pulled the valves back to the head so hard the PCM thought it was knock!! So I went with 02 LS6 springs which can take a max of .550 lift. With a light cam you wouldnt even use those 918's to their full potential anyways. Hardened rods are a good idea. The stock rods are weak!! The LS6 oil pump is not necessary. But some like to go with it. It does run some high oil pressures. Timing chain should go if its getting oil mileage wise. The Rollmaster double roller is a good setup to go with. You can throw on an ASP crank UD pulley while you have the old one off. I recommend NOT reusing the old crank pulley bolt because it is stretched and might break. The gaskets and such should be replaced. They are cheap and can be had from GMPartsDirect.com or a stealership.
 
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