[Smith]

Thinking about getting a truck that has a 650 CFM Edelbrock Carb and High rise intake. Truck is just a mild 350 so I have a feeling the Carb is a bit overkill. Anyway im not much experienced with Carbs and have a question. My dad keeps telling me that a High Rise Aluminum intake will be near impossible to get the truck to start in the winter time. Says he remembers from the old days there being some issue with of some sort and he can't remember. For some reason hes thinking a choke is useless in the winter time when you have a high rise. I can't think of any reason why since the choke is on the carb. Anyway do you guys have any experience? Personally if its an issue im just going to swap the intake and a smaller carb maybe at some point. This also isn't no daily driving truck but just something to go haul wood, run to lowes, and go play with truck.

 

[RedXray]

If the intake is a single plane it has no exhaust crossover port running below the carburetor. This can be somewhat of a pain during cold startups without the exhaust heating the floor of the intake. Single plane intakes are mostly used for racing... colder the fuel equals more of an explosion thus more power. You still could could have a dual plane "high rise" that has the crossover port, and if so it could have the stainless block offs installed that comes with most performance intake gasket sets. Is the Holley 4777 with a mechanical choke?

I've driven many Performance Intake/Holley setups through the years sans a choke. On cold mornings two full throttle pumps will give it two double (8) accelerator shots of fuel to start. Then a lite feather on the throttle while driving until the water temp rises. To much throttle equals to much air in a cold engine then it stalls. Just remember it's hard as fuk to flood a cold carbureted engine... just let it eat a few accelerator shots and it'll fire right up.

Find out what intake is on it, single or dual plane. Dual plane is designed just like a stock intake so you'll have no issues there. If it's a dual plane with a newer 650 with an electric choke... your gold IMO.

You can see the exhaust crossover port (under the carburetor flange, between the two center mounting bolts) on the dual plane (right)

 

[catman3516]

stock q-jets on 350's are 750cfm to 850cfm stock

 

[Smith]

If the intake is a single plane it has no exhaust crossover port running below the carburetor. This can be somewhat of a pain during cold startups without the exhaust heating the floor of the intake. Single plane intakes are mostly used for racing... colder the fuel equals more of an explosion thus more power. You still could could have a dual plane "high rise" that has the crossover port, and if so it could have the stainless block offs installed that comes with most performance intake gasket sets. Is the Holley 4777 with a mechanical choke?

I've driven many Performance Intake/Holley setups through the years sans a choke. On cold mornings two full throttle pumps will give it two double (8) accelerator shots of fuel to start. Then a lite feather on the throttle while driving until the water temp rises. To much throttle equals to much air in a cold engine then it stalls. Just remember it's hard as fuk to flood a cold carbureted engine... just let it eat a few accelerator shots and it'll fire right up.

Find out what intake is on it, single or dual plane. Dual plane is designed just like a stock intake so you'll have no issues there. If it's a dual plane with a newer 650 with an electric choke... your gold IMO.

You can see the exhaust crossover port (under the carburetor flange, between the two center mounting bolts) on the dual plane (right)

Appreciate all the info sir. Personally I don't know if its an electric, or mechanical choke. Haven't seen the truck in person yet. Guy is actually wanting to trade me the truck for one of my guns that i want to part with anyway. I think im getting the better end of the deal but was warned about the intake setup. This will be my first carbed engine I have ever owned so I know very little

 

[RedXray]

Appreciate all the info sir. Personally I don't know if its an electric, or mechanical choke. Haven't seen the truck in person yet. Guy is actually wanting to trade me the truck for one of my guns that i want to part with anyway. I think im getting the better end of the deal but was warned about the intake setup. This will be my first carbed engine I have ever owned so I know very little

After re-reading your OP I somehow missed the "Edelbrock" carburetor. This is a repop of the Carter AFB design and very popular on many factory muscle cars of the day. A standard flange (square bore) with vacuum secondarys. These are street type carbs with an electric choke. I'd go out on a limb and say it's going to most likely be paired with a dual plane intake... and to go out further on this shaky limb... I'd guess maybe an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake? (very common and very streetable)

 

[Smith]

Ok got the truck and it actually has a Summit Carb on it which from what I understand is a knock off of an old Holley 4150 so im trying to read stuff and educate myself. The truck does have an issue that I found out when bringing it home. After driving it a while the truck began to stumble at 55-60 mph. Back off the throttle to 50 and it ran fine for a few more miles and eventually got all the way to the point of where it was doing it at 45. Turned the truck off at a gas station, got gas, did my thing in the bathroom, come out and the truck ran fine for another 15 miles and it did it again. Got it home and noticed a nice pleasant fuel smell.
Today I checked the PSI on the regulator with the truck running and its sitting at about 5 PSI which seems to be what they are aiming for with the carb. The fuel pump is on an external rocker switch so i killed it while the truck was idling and it ran for probably a good 2 minutes before it stumbled and died. I am guessing its getting a bit too much fuel. Sound right? If so do I start by checking float levels? or where do i go?

 

[RedXray]

The 4150 Holleys are a "model/family" of carburetors. On the choke horn (also the valve bodies) you'll see the carburetors part number stamped in. "4776" is a 600 CFM, "4777" 650 CFM, "4779" is a 750 etc.

With the stumbling you could have one of a few issues:

1. Trash in the fuel bowl(s) and getting into the needle & seat.

2. Worn needle & seat assembly.

3. to high of a float level.

4. To high of fuel pressure causing the fuel to override the needle & seat (which you've checked)

5. Saturated (composite material) float... very rare. Float dragging the fuel bowl also rare.

These carburetors are simple to re-kit. Just match the old gaskets to the new ones as most kits come with extra gaskets to rebuild a few different models. Make sure the bowl gasket(s) is oriented correctly and not covering the accelerator pumps orifice. When removing each of the screws that holds the accelerator pump squirters... there's a check ball under of each squirt nozzle. Just flip the carb catching each check ball. There are new check balls in the kit.

You can do a temp fix by ldling the engine and remove primary bowls float "sight" level screw. The correct fuel level is when you slightly rock the vehicle and fuel barely dribbles out the sight hole.

If fuel pours out instead of a slight dribble this is the bowl that needs attention.

If it's good replace the sight level plug and move to the secondary bowl.

The bowl that's showing excessive fuel most likely has trash in the needle & seat. With a flat screw driver and a 5/8 wrench to hold the adjusting nut > loosen and remove the flat head screw then remove the needle & seat assembly with the adjusting nut (count the turns for replacing). Blow out the needle & seat then replace leaving the flat head screw "just snug". Remove the sight plug again, start the engine and adjust the float until you just get the dribble rocking the vehicle, (turning the adjusting nut clockwise lowers the level), tighten the flat head screw and replace the sight plug.

Sounds complicated but it's a simple process which takes about 4 or 5 minutes. Good to know how to do if you have a Holley. With other carburetors you can't do this on the fly. This procedure can get you home in a pinch instead of calling a tow truck.

ETA: if someone has been monkeying with the float level it just may need adjusting. More than likely it's probably some trash or old fuel deposits floating around (if it's been sitting awhile)

 

[Smith]

The 4150 Holleys are a "model/family" of carburetors. On the choke horn (also the valve bodies) you'll see the carburetors part number stamped in. "4776" is a 600 CFM, "4777" 650 CFM, "4779" is a 750 etc.

With the stumbling you could have one of a few issues:

1. Trash in the fuel bowl(s) and getting into the needle & seat.

2. Worn needle & seat assembly.

3. to high of a float level.

4. To high of fuel pressure causing the fuel to override the needle & seat (which you've checked)

5. Saturated (composite material) float... very rare. Float dragging the fuel bowl also rare.

These carburetors are simple to re-kit. Just match the old gaskets to the new ones as most kits come with extra gaskets to rebuild a few different models. Make sure the bowl gasket(s) is oriented correctly and not covering the accelerator pumps orifice. When removing each of the screws that holds the accelerator pump squirters... there's a check ball under of each squirt nozzle. Just flip the carb catching each check ball. There are new check balls in the kit.

You can do a temp fix by ldling the engine and remove primary bowls float "sight" level screw. The correct fuel level is when you slightly rock the vehicle and fuel barely dribbles out the sight hole.

If fuel pours out instead of a slight dribble this is the bowl that needs attention.

If it's good replace the sight level plug and move to the secondary bowl.

The bowl that's showing excessive fuel most likely has trash in the needle & seat. With a flat screw driver and a 5/8 wrench to hold the adjusting nut > loosen and remove the flat head screw then remove the needle & seat assembly with the adjusting nut (count the turns for replacing). Blow out the needle & seat then replace leaving the flat head screw "just snug". Remove the sight plug again, start the engine and adjust the float until you just get the dribble rocking the vehicle, (turning the adjusting nut clockwise lowers the level), tighten the flat head screw and replace the sight plug.

Sounds complicated but it's a simple process which takes about 4 or 5 minutes. Good to know how to do if you have a Holley. With other carburetors you can't do this on the fly. This procedure can get you home in a pinch instead of calling a tow truck.

ETA: if someone has been monkeying with the float level it just may need adjusting. More than likely it's probably some trash or old fuel deposits floating around (if it's been sitting awhile)

Ok stupid question. The summit version of the carbs do not have a sight level scre, but are actually windowed. Looking at the window the fule is sitting at about half way up the window. Reading what you post is that fuel should barely trickle out when removing the screw, I am guessing that since these are windowed I should just barely be able to see gas, correct?