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Armed NRA member.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


So, im assuming no one is gonna follow through and buy my truck in this economy. so a series of upgrades is to come... Im planning on my first one being a 14 bolt Sf... my question is, should i get 2 more fox resi's for the rear axle? Advantages and disadvantages? Eventually (way down the road) i'd like to SFA... so i want the rear to be as beefy as possible. (on a budget)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
youll need a 14bolt FF for "beefy as possible"
true that, but i'd rather direct bolt in... Im not very Wrench happy... me and one of my buddies are going to be doing it. BUt, what are the price differences b/w SF and FF... and what kind of fab are we talking.
 

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With a FF, it's going to be an 8 lug. Depending on how far away the SFa is Sam, you might want to jus go ahead and run 8 lugs on the rear bc you're goign to have an 8 lug front with the 1 tons F&R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With a FF, it's going to be an 8 lug. You can get 6 lugs axles, we'll just have to make sure the splines are the same on the diff and the axles. Depending on how far away the SFa is Sam, you might want to jus go ahead and run 8 lugs on the rear bc you're goign to have an 8 lug front with the 1 tons F&R.
true that.. but the sfa is wayy down the road, atleast a year.
 

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DeepSouth Gangster
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With a FF, it's going to be an 8 lug. You can get 6 lugs axles, we'll just have to make sure the splines are the same on the diff and the axles. Depending on how far away the SFa is Sam, you might want to jus go ahead and run 8 lugs on the rear bc you're goign to have an 8 lug front with the 1 tons F&R.
You are an idiot. You can not get 6lug full floating shafts, check the splilnes and get them to work like that. What makes a full floater different from a semi floater is the hubs. You know, the thing that holds the lug studs to the axle? Lets think before we click "post reply".
 

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Sorry Silver. I'll edit. Although., I might be too much of an idiot to know how to edit/
 

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Dbs>Bitches.
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I still love your truck man.
 

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Member #1303
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so have you blown up your 10 bolt yet?

if not then why replace it

a 14sf will require custom perches

a 14ff will require custom everything

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$4444


but for this blingy truck i'd say keep the 10 bolt you can rebuild it 3x before a 14 bolt will pay for itself

and yes, you should get 4 MORE CHROME SHOCKS
 

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Swamper Brotherhood
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i know where they have a lot of 14semi floats... one in 6 lug and a bunch in 8 lug..

as far as a 14ff... if you were to get machined down 6lug hubs and shafts i still dont think you would be able to run bling bling rims...most have to small of a hub center from what i have seen

also I have 1500 into my 6 lug 14bolt and its not even in the tahoe yet..
 

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GMFS Military Member
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I paid $600 for my 14SF, then $350 for 4.88 Yukons with Master Install kit, :secret: $800 for the ARB Locker, and about $400 for the Disk brake swap w/ lines. All in all I have about 1300 in mine (I got the locker for free though) and it's not even under my truck :(
 

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Show Trucks R 4 Gays
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14ff are cheap and they are very easy to setup, There is also no need to have 4 shocks in the rear.

BigRed
14ff- $70 from barrys you pull it
Detroit- $350 PORC
5.38 gears- $120 PORC
Master install kit- $70 PORC
Hub rebuild kits- $80 PORC
Perches, Ubolts, plates, shock mounts- $120 Ruffstuff
Disk brake swap- $290 tangent design
POR15 paint- $50
SOLID diff cover-$90 pirate
pinion gaurd- $60 BTF
Total for BigRed's axle $1300





Blazers 14ff

14ff- FREE from Btassin on here
Diff cover- $25 Copperhead fab (diy)
Perches- $10 copperhead fab (diy)
shock mounts- $cost of metal (cut them out with my plasma)
Gears- running the 4.10s they came with
Locker- $free (made a spool out of the spiders)
Pinion gaurd- $30 Ballistic Fab (weld together)
Bisk brake brackets- $30 ballistic fab
Brakelines, rotors, calipers, pads-$117 from Napa (so $150 Into complete Disk swap)
1350to 1310 Ujoint- $16 (i had $25 summit bucks)
ORD SS rear brake line $40
Hub rebuild kits-$80 ebay

Total $348 for a built 14ff

It can be done for cheap, you just have to know what exactly you need. If your willing to pay I can build you either axle.



 

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Dual shocks wont really give you much "performance" give you some bling :D, But you would want to revalve them for dual application or ride pretty shitty. I would save up the money and put some bags on it :pepper:

The sf would be easer to put in but not always cheaper the part for sf are usually more then ff.
 

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Armed NRA member.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
14ff are cheap and they are very easy to setup, There is also no need to have 4 shocks in the rear.

BigRed
14ff- $70 from barrys you pull it
Detroit- $350 PORC
5.38 gears- $120 PORC
Master install kit- $70 PORC
Hub rebuild kits- $80 PORC
Perches, Ubolts, plates, shock mounts- $120 Ruffstuff
Disk brake swap- $290 tangent design
POR15 paint- $50
SOLID diff cover-$90 pirate
pinion gaurd- $60 BTF
Total for BigRed's axle $1300





Blazers 14ff

14ff- FREE from Btassin on here
Diff cover- $25 Copperhead fab (diy)
Perches- $10 copperhead fab (diy)
shock mounts- $cost of metal (cut them out with my plasma)
Gears- running the 4.10s they came with
Locker- $free (made a spool out of the spiders)
Pinion gaurd- $30 Ballistic Fab (weld together)
Bisk brake brackets- $30 ballistic fab
Brakelines, rotors, calipers, pads-$117 from Napa (so $150 Into complete Disk swap)
1350to 1310 Ujoint- $16 (i had $25 summit bucks)
ORD SS rear brake line $40
Hub rebuild kits-$80 ebay

Total $348 for a built 14ff

It can be done for cheap, you just have to know what exactly you need. If your willing to pay I can build you either axle.





ill pm you when the time has come, you know im willing to pay, and to help if you ever need it.
 

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Armed NRA member.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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