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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We know many of you out there have Full-Size Chevy's or GM's, so we thought we would include you on our most recent build-up.

This is Victor's Silverado. Clean by any means rolling a 4/6 drop on
22's..some people would be stoked to leave as-is. He brought it to us to take it to the ground....a COMPLETE build-up.

Follow along for a "How-to" on the KP 4-link and Cantilever with Watts link, Front and Rear wheel tubs, AirRide Tech Control arms, relocating your engine components, plumbing and wiring your ride....and trouble-shooting along the way. (*Remember: There is always more than one way to skin a cat. We are simply showing you the tride and true methods which have brought us success throughout the many installs we have completed. )

You can also check it out on our website at www.sicmotorsports.com, in the "Gallery". We will work to update both our website and this thread daily so you can watch the progress take shape, and answer any questions you may have along the way!
 

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Cool, i will definately watch this build-up, im going with the exact same setup when i bag my truck this summer.
 

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We too will stay tuned to see how the truck comes out using our front cups and rear bracket system that are specifically desinged to work on the 99-UP GM trucks. Our bolt-on 4 Link & Cantilever system is designed to lay out the NBS trucks on wheels up to 24 inch diameters, so the 22's wount be a problem.

With that rear suspension system in combination of our 99-UP GM step notch kit that's designed to match the NBS trucks frame contour, it'll lay like a champ.




Here's another 99-UP that was built by the Nick and the talented crew over at SIC Motorsports using our suspension items all the way around. Look and lays like a million bucks.



Clint Petree
KP Components Inc.
866-KP-LINKS
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Step 1:
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First step is to remove the bed from the truck. Since the bed has a Tonue cover we use our lift to pull the bed off which makes it easier but a couple buddies and some muscles will do!

Step2:
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Cleaning the frame up before you touch anything on the truck really helps speed the process along, also helps you keep looking good for that date you have later.

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A pressure washer works wonders but giving the little kid next door 5 bucks works excellent as well!

Step 3:
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Always remember to cover the windows with some sort of protectant to keep sparks from putting diviots in your glass. We use 3M welding paper and it works like a champ!

Step4:
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Now we are ready to remove the rear end from the truck to be sent off to get narrowed! First off we like to shorten the breather tube on the rear end which gets it out of the way and also looks alot better.

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Next clamp the rubber brake line so that fluid can not leave when pulling the brake lines off.

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Remember to mark where the axle is centered on the frame so that when the rear end is out you are still able to accurately notch the truck saving time while you wait to get your rear end back.

Step 5:
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Now its time to pull the rear end out. This can be done alone but its easier if you have a friend over to help. Heck, buy a case of beer and you should have a few friends there easily! With the Frame supported by jack stands, place a 2nd set of jackstands under the rear end, now its time to remove the leaf springs. Be careul here, they may be under a bit of tension! Remove the U-bolts followed by the bots in the front and rear hangers. The leaf springs should easily be removed from the truck. An easy way to move the rear end around is to put a jack under the pumpkin and so you can pull it around while your buddy stabilizes the rear end from tipping off.

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Springs and rear end removed and ready to roll!

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Off to the rear end shop we go! To lay on a 22 or 24 we take out 1.5" of EACH SIDE but this also depends on the backspacing/off-set of your wheels.

Step 6:
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Its time to remove that pretty little dual exahust set-up. Here a sawzall is your friend but a hack saw will do.

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Exahust pipes from the muffler back removed. Later some turn downs will be added and is highly recomended, helps keep everything clean and reduces heat in the rear end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Step 7:
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Now the fun begins! Time to break out the Plasma torch/Sawzall/Cut off wheel/Hack saw (im sorry you will be on this step for a while) and start cutting! But first! Don't forget to brace the frame with a scrap piece of tubbing so that when the factory crossmembers are removed the frame rails will stay in the position they were meant to be in. If you skipp this step you will have a fun time of trying to line your frame rails back up so that they are strait and all your bed bolts will line up.

Step 8:
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Alright, now you can start cutting! We are going to be putting new crossmembers in so we take both rear crossmembers out to create room for mounting tanks and compressors.

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Everything is removed. We find it easier and cleaner to cut around the round crossmember then once it is removed we plate the hole from the inside using flat stock cut into circles.

Step 9:
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Now it is time to remove the stock front and rear hangers from the frame. We like to us the Plasma Torch and cut the heads off and then come back with the air hammer and blast out the remainder of the rivot. Another way that works well is to use a cut off wheel and cut an X into the head of the rivot. Then take a air hammer with a chisel tip to remove the rest of the head. Then simply use the air hammer with a punch tip and remove the rest of the rivot.

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Rear hanger removed.

Step 10:
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Now this is where the beer in the cooler comes in handy! From the factory there is an ugly undercoating that the entire frame is coated with. We like to clean the frame up to put a nice coat of paint on. Use whatever you can find that works as a good scrapper. Scrape off as much undercoating as you can before you get tired, then get some old dirty rags and some paint thinner. Whipe down the frame using paint thinner and Wa-La! You have a nice clean bare metal frame.

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The frame is all clean and ready to have a nice layer of paint.

This is where we are at in this project now but stay tuned for more as
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Powdercoat.jpg

We just got all our parts back from powdercoating and its looking good! This is an extra step we like to offer to our customers because when your spending all this money on fixing up your gangster whip, its nice to make it stand out a little bit. Its good to be different!
 

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wow very detailed so far!!!! Can't woat for more.
 

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looks good. gotta love the color of that truck. :)
 

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Looks good! This is interesting.....gonna subscribe to this one! :D:D
 
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