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Discussion Starter #1
Guys I'm fairly new to the truck world been playing in vets and trans ams and Camaros for the last 20 years... I need to know how hard it is to take a Chevy Silverado rear end and convert it to a suburban four-link. What's entailed do the u-joints line up is it an easy process or is it something I need to avoid
 

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Solid axle '01 Tahoe/'03 Sierra/'18 Silverado
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So if I'm reading this right, you're wanting to take the differential from a suburban or tahoe, plus the factory upper control arms, lower control arms, track (panhard) bar, and coil springs and put them into a Silverado by welding the corresponding factory brackets cut off the donor's frame to your Silverado frame?

The shape of the frame is different from SUV to pickup. So at the very least the brackets would need to be different to locate all the other stuff in the correct locations.

But I'm a fan of not using the stamped steel, light duty, non adjustable control arms anyway. You'd be so far ahead building arms that are adjustable. Welding frame side mounts in the correct location to have optimum geometry for your driveshaft length and the ones you'd build would be stronger by far as well.

You'd be able to use the factory SUV differential and coil springs pretty easily at that point. As to your other question. The u joints wouldn't be an issue.

Just my $0.02, based on my own project.
I might be way off here
 

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n. fil-dert.
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Agreed I'd fab that all day and end up with better geometry, articulation, strength, and looks. If you can weld it's a fairly straight forward task.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
So if I'm reading this right, you're wanting to take the differential from a suburban or tahoe, plus the factory upper control arms, lower control arms, track (panhard) bar, and coil springs and put them into a Silverado by welding the corresponding factory brackets cut off the donor's frame to your Silverado frame?

The shape of the frame is different from SUV to pickup. So at the very least the brackets would need to be different to locate all the other stuff in the correct locations.

But I'm a fan of not using the stamped steel, light duty, non adjustable control arms anyway. You'd be so far ahead building arms that are adjustable. Welding frame side mounts in the correct location to have optimum geometry for your driveshaft length and the ones you'd build would be stronger by far as well.

You'd be able to use the factory SUV differential and coil springs pretty easily at that point. As to your other question. The u joints wouldn't be an issue.

Just my $0.02, based on my own project.
I might be way off here
Yeah, i was just thinking if it would work. i plan on doing a 4 link with some ride control, but have other things in my way. i haven't had time to research this much which is why i asked :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well first off have you ever put a 4 link in a truck before?

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not in a truck, but have 4 linked all of my racecars and built many custom frames. I just wasn't sure how similar the frames and mounts on the chevys were. You guys answered my questions. thank you
 

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Mmm Sandwich
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not in a truck, but have 4 linked all of my racecars and built many custom frames. I just wasn't sure how similar the frames and mounts on the chevys were. You guys answered my questions. thank you
You will be fine than.

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And like I said before, I think still using an SUV housing would make the most sense.

They're cheap and plentiful
 

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And like I said before, I think still using an SUV housing would make the most sense.

They're cheap and plentiful
It’s the same housing as truck so?

the SUV style coil spring setup leave much to be desired. A parral 4 with a pan hard would be better, cheaper, and easier.
 

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Does KP not make their bolt in 4 link kit anymore?
 

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the SUV style coil spring setup leave much to be desired. A parral 4 with a pan hard would be better, cheaper, and easier.
I guess my background is more 4wd rather than low to the ground pavement pounders.

From that end the SUV housing is pretty darn good (strength aside).

But the pavement pounding guys are going to know way more than me
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And like I said before, I think still using an SUV housing would make the most sense.

They're cheap and plentiful
It's funny you say that that's what I ended up with 373 posi four-link disc rear end. From get this... A Tahoe/Suburban!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
not really in a position right this minute to be able to convert it either otherwise I do the work I just really need to slam it back on the road and go so I got to sell this one now I got to wait and find a new one anybody know where there's a rear end for sale near DFW... cheap... help!!!!
 

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It's funny you say that that's what I ended up with 373 posi four-link disc rear end. From get this... A Tahoe/Suburban!
No one ever buys the SUV axles. No market for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I didn't realize till I got it home got to get rid of this damn thing first now
 

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Yeah I didn't realize till I got it home got to get rid of this damn thing first now
I’d be interested in the calibers if there dual pistons.
 

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I guess the scene in Texas is different than it is here.

Every wrecking yard in town has tons of them, and the going rate is $150-ish for complete housings if you pull them yourself.

I hope you find the one you need though
 

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Mmm Sandwich
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Yea unless its 4.10s i sell them all the time for 150

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I have about 20 $250 a pop.
 
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