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Discussion Starter #1
Ok..i'm sure we've all been driving down the road...and we spot a chevy / gmc that has the same type of light problem that i do now..

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One light is on...the other...not so much :think:

And no, it's not burnt out, as i just replaced both of them about a month ago. Both will work for about a week....then one of them will die out. SOOOO...i took pics and this is what i found..

I took the light out and snapped some pics..

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Seems like i have a short or something...b/c once i put the light back in... the damn thing started working again... :banghead:

What would you guys suggest... dealer fix it under warranty...or should i just shoot down to autozone buy the right parts....and fix it myself?


Btw... don't cha just love that GMPP CAI. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do have the long life bulbs... just sucks that i have to pop the hood and take the light out everytime i want to fix the issue...
 

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I do have the long life bulbs... just sucks that i have to pop the hood and take the light out everytime i want to fix the issue...
i just turn mine off everytime i start the truck, i had the amber silverstars in mine for like 8 monthes and they never burnt out on me and i kept them on all the time so maybe if you like how those look you can try them
 

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or instead of turning them off everytime you start the truck...just put 2 of your many burnt bulbs you must have in so neither are on:rofl2:...but imo i would rather have both off then just one on haha. also if its under warrenty then why not bring it to the dealer because it wont cost you anything!
 

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OG
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These DRL threads are a dime a dozen.... no offense to you :shake:

This is why I switched to LED DRLs. I tried switching my DRLs at first to some APC HyperWhite 3157 bulbs and both pairs blew out within 24 hrs :nono:

Then I went to some Nokya 3157 HyperWhite 3157 bulbs (made in Japan) and those lasted a few weeks before one of the housings melted :nono:

So finally I went with some 3157 HyperWhite LEDs and they've been running strong for about a year now. I have since replaced all my lights inside and outside with LEDs.... except my headlights, and turn signals.

LEDs are the way to go :imo

PM me if you wanna go this route
 

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Dem People
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Yea the drl's suck ass. I've had problems with mine since I got it in '04.
 

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Watchu know about trucks?
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I have since replaced all my lights inside and outside with LEDs.... except my headlights, and turn signals.

LEDs are the way to go :imo
Me too, the only way to go. The only exterior lights that arent LED on my Suburban are the headlights and brake lights.
 

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25% of the GM trucks I see are like that. Many reasons why it happens, none of them good. Never use them or replace them. IMO
 

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OG
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My theory with the LEDs is........ each LED has a built in resistor, so it helps to regulate the voltage irregularities from the DRL wiring :shrug:
 

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DisgruntleD
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This is going to sound stupid, but do you just get the led bulbs and pop them in? I swear that on some of the LED sights they say that you need blah blah resistor or harness to use them in GM DRL's. I would like to get some, but I haven't decided yet, I would like my turn signals to match, but I know I need to do a load resistor on those or they'll blink fast.
 

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Watchu know about trucks?
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You dont need to buy anything extra.

For the DRL's, you just plug them in. For your turn signals, you only need to do a simple modification to the existing flasher unit and they wont flash fast.
 

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OG
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This is going to sound stupid, but do you just get the led bulbs and pop them in? I swear that on some of the LED sights they say that you need blah blah resistor or harness to use them in GM DRL's. I would like to get some, but I haven't decided yet, I would like my turn signals to match, but I know I need to do a load resistor on those or they'll blink fast.
Yeah the LEDs for the DRLs just pop right in. And you're right about the blinkers and needing a resistor harness. Thus why I've never switched mine out, PITA if you ask me.
 

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SC 6.0
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I've been runnng PIAA DRL's on the Silverado for maybe 1 1/2 years without any of them going bad. I'll do the LED one's once they fail though. Before I had the Sylvania SuperWhite's and I went through 2 sets in like 2 months.
 

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And you're right about the blinkers and needing a resistor harness.
Actually thats incorrect. You dont need a resistor harness or any type of special parts. You can eliminate the fast blinkers when you add LEDs as your turn signals for free with existing parts you already have installed. A simple modification to the factory flasher module is all that is needed. The modification itself takes a little less than five seconds with a pair of fine tipped wire cutters. I did it on my 01 Suburban and parents 02 Tahoe last March and several friends, co-workers and family members GM trucks and SUVs since and have had no negative effects. I've posted instructions on quite a few GM truck/SUV forums.

I'll post it here too for those who may have missed it.

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77015&highlight=flasher

Inside our flasher is a chip. It is a U643B Automotive Flasher chip. It basically controls the relay that turns the lights on and off. This chip has circuitry that can detect when a light is out by looking for a reduction in load (current). The chip will see this and trigger the lights on and off twice as fast to alert the driver that a bulb is out.

Luckilly this is all done with one pin on the chip. What you need to do is take the stock electronic flasher apart and cut the leg of the chip on pin 7 coming off the chip. You will loose the 'lamp failure detection' on the chip. But the lights will flash normally. And you saved some money as long as you don't break the flasher.

Click the link below for more information on the U643B chip.
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/p...ts/doc4727.pdf
And heres pics of the inside of our flasher:

Here is the high resolution image (1.9megs):

http://www.differentracing.com/mike/suburban/flasher-hi.jpg

And the low resolution image (65k):
http://www.differentracing.com/mike/suburban/flasher-lo.jpg

I labeled the pins on the chip. We just desoldered the leg of the chip, but if you have some fine tipped wire cutters, that will work too.
 
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