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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #1
Just some more questions that have come up

1) U bolt plates, for the front and back. Can I just use a square .25" chunk of plate with 4 holes drilled in it for teh u bolts and then a hole for the top of teh center pic? These are to use with the round style U bolts, so they would be located on top of the springs.

2) Is a 27 spline NP241 going to directly bolt up to my 4l60e that has a autotrac NP246 on it now? Technically it should right? I know my 4wd light will come on but ill just pull the bulb, its not going to do me any good anymore anyways.

3) Slip Yolk Eliminator, should I put one on the NP241? If so where is the best place to get one?

Im sure as time goes on I will think of more.
 

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1) Use something thicker than 1/4" for sure. My rears are 1/4" but have structural bends in them and they hold up ok. My fronts are 3/8" plate that is flat and drilled and it is bent over 1/2" from the torque on the u-bolts.

2) Yes it will.

3) There are quite a few places making these now, most are the same exact parts. http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com seems to have good prices... I buy all my driveshaft parts from them since I make my own shafts.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #3
ok ill use some 3/8" or 1/2" plate for the u bolts. If you remember a pic of your front and back would be cool. The front ones are also going to act as my shock mounting points.

Drive shafts are something im worried about, obvisouly I cant have them made until my axles are on so I get the right size. I guess I can try and find a good local shop. I know ill need a front CV shaft but not sure about the back. Im hoping both shafts will be under 600.
 

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Well your rear only needs to be lengthened so thats usually $100. Then the front will re-use the axle end yoke and the slip, then all you need is a cv so I guess that shaft will run about $150. Well, through the guy I used to use it was...
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #5
Ill need more than that for the rear, ill have to have a 1350 joint put on, I dont want to use a conversion joint, I would think thats a weak spot. The front doesnt have a slip, its IFS, fixed shaft. Also it needs a 1350 joint on the axle end, I bought a 1350 yolk for the D60.
 

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Dark Eternal said:
ok ill use some 3/8" or 1/2" plate for the u bolts. If you remember a pic of your front and back would be cool. The front ones are also going to act as my shock mounting points.

Drive shafts are something im worried about, obvisouly I cant have them made until my axles are on so I get the right size. I guess I can try and find a good local shop. I know ill need a front CV shaft but not sure about the back. Im hoping both shafts will be under 600.

The shafts shouldn't be too bad. I had both mine built for under $300 with the c/v's.
 

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Keepin' it real...
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Dark Eternal said:
Ill need more than that for the rear, ill have to have a 1350 joint put on, I dont want to use a conversion joint, I would think thats a weak spot.
Actually, a weak point wouldnt be a bad idea... If something were to break, I'd rather break a U-joint rather than blow out the diff or t-case. Sometime, somewhere, there will be an instance where somethings gotta give. Think of it as a fuse. :anitoof: Just my thoughts.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #8
well i think even with the 1350 it will be the fuse, the diff aint ganna break, Ive only seen a few 14 bolt ffs break, and is something does go it will be a shaft, cheap and super easy fix. Hell you dont even have to take the tire off to replace a shaft. The t-case is pretty tough, tougher than the autotrac bullshit, but you definatly have a good point, I just dont know how strong a 1350 is compared to the case.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #9
4) Its a bout time for me to order gears for the 60, 5.13 thick reverse rotation (so it will fit a 4.10 carrier). What is the best brand to order?
 

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Precision is about the best... But most of them are perfectly fine, Motive, Genuine, etc.

On your front shaft, it's fixed??? Mine was IFS and it has a good 8" of slip in it with the nut removed. I use it to this day, just re-tubed it with .25" wall and lengthened it.

And on your rear yeah I forgot your truck is 1/2 ton, a whole new shaft would run about $450 for the rear I would guess, cheaper if you buy the parts from the super store and have it welded up though.
 

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I disagree with weak points. The diff is gonna go out when the diff goes out anyway. Same deal with the rest of the shit. Having something else break a hundred times along the way is a waste.
 

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There is no other carrier for the ford HP fronts, only the 4.10 and down set so all the gears are the same. All gears over 4.10 will be "thick" gears.
 

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I had my rear shaft made for $190 at sac. driveline.And for the u bolt plates you are going to bend up the ends right?1/4 inch should be fine with the ends bent up I think thats what mine are could be 3/8.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #15
Called richmond and they are the right gears. They dont make them anymore, but those are suposed to be new in box so what the hell, I bid. Beats the 175 ive been finding for other new sets. Now all I need is the instal kit, and I guess new joints.

Also the yolk I bought (1350 spicer) didnt come with the u bolts or whatever to hold on the joint, where can these be found.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #16
Went ahead and bid on some spicer sealed joints as well, same guy you bought them from Jason, I think. Anyone recomend a certain brand of instal kit that is the most complete?
 
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