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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just some more questions that have come up

1) U bolt plates, for the front and back. Can I just use a square .25" chunk of plate with 4 holes drilled in it for teh u bolts and then a hole for the top of teh center pic? These are to use with the round style U bolts, so they would be located on top of the springs.

2) Is a 27 spline NP241 going to directly bolt up to my 4l60e that has a autotrac NP246 on it now? Technically it should right? I know my 4wd light will come on but ill just pull the bulb, its not going to do me any good anymore anyways.

3) Slip Yolk Eliminator, should I put one on the NP241? If so where is the best place to get one?

Im sure as time goes on I will think of more.
 

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1) Use something thicker than 1/4" for sure. My rears are 1/4" but have structural bends in them and they hold up ok. My fronts are 3/8" plate that is flat and drilled and it is bent over 1/2" from the torque on the u-bolts.

2) Yes it will.

3) There are quite a few places making these now, most are the same exact parts. http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com seems to have good prices... I buy all my driveshaft parts from them since I make my own shafts.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok ill use some 3/8" or 1/2" plate for the u bolts. If you remember a pic of your front and back would be cool. The front ones are also going to act as my shock mounting points.

Drive shafts are something im worried about, obvisouly I cant have them made until my axles are on so I get the right size. I guess I can try and find a good local shop. I know ill need a front CV shaft but not sure about the back. Im hoping both shafts will be under 600.
 

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Well your rear only needs to be lengthened so thats usually $100. Then the front will re-use the axle end yoke and the slip, then all you need is a cv so I guess that shaft will run about $150. Well, through the guy I used to use it was...
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ill need more than that for the rear, ill have to have a 1350 joint put on, I dont want to use a conversion joint, I would think thats a weak spot. The front doesnt have a slip, its IFS, fixed shaft. Also it needs a 1350 joint on the axle end, I bought a 1350 yolk for the D60.
 

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Dark Eternal said:
ok ill use some 3/8" or 1/2" plate for the u bolts. If you remember a pic of your front and back would be cool. The front ones are also going to act as my shock mounting points.

Drive shafts are something im worried about, obvisouly I cant have them made until my axles are on so I get the right size. I guess I can try and find a good local shop. I know ill need a front CV shaft but not sure about the back. Im hoping both shafts will be under 600.

The shafts shouldn't be too bad. I had both mine built for under $300 with the c/v's.
 

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Keepin' it real...
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Dark Eternal said:
Ill need more than that for the rear, ill have to have a 1350 joint put on, I dont want to use a conversion joint, I would think thats a weak spot.
Actually, a weak point wouldnt be a bad idea... If something were to break, I'd rather break a U-joint rather than blow out the diff or t-case. Sometime, somewhere, there will be an instance where somethings gotta give. Think of it as a fuse. :anitoof: Just my thoughts.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i think even with the 1350 it will be the fuse, the diff aint ganna break, Ive only seen a few 14 bolt ffs break, and is something does go it will be a shaft, cheap and super easy fix. Hell you dont even have to take the tire off to replace a shaft. The t-case is pretty tough, tougher than the autotrac bullshit, but you definatly have a good point, I just dont know how strong a 1350 is compared to the case.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
4) Its a bout time for me to order gears for the 60, 5.13 thick reverse rotation (so it will fit a 4.10 carrier). What is the best brand to order?
 

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Precision is about the best... But most of them are perfectly fine, Motive, Genuine, etc.

On your front shaft, it's fixed??? Mine was IFS and it has a good 8" of slip in it with the nut removed. I use it to this day, just re-tubed it with .25" wall and lengthened it.

And on your rear yeah I forgot your truck is 1/2 ton, a whole new shaft would run about $450 for the rear I would guess, cheaper if you buy the parts from the super store and have it welded up though.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Called richmond and they are the right gears. They dont make them anymore, but those are suposed to be new in box so what the hell, I bid. Beats the 175 ive been finding for other new sets. Now all I need is the instal kit, and I guess new joints.

Also the yolk I bought (1350 spicer) didnt come with the u bolts or whatever to hold on the joint, where can these be found.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Went ahead and bid on some spicer sealed joints as well, same guy you bought them from Jason, I think. Anyone recomend a certain brand of instal kit that is the most complete?
 
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