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Missin the switches
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We swapped in the 6.0 this weekend and did the shift kit in the trans..
now we did the shift kit in the valve body, and the servo on the side..we DIDNT open the trans up and do all the little springs..im thinking that is an extra kit? it says for high horse power applications that sping over 5500 rpms..i know you dont have to tear the whole trans apart just for a shift kit because people do them while the trans is still in..


what is the complete capacity of the trans/converter/lines/radiator? everything was completely empty..my buddy said it was near 13-15...that means im a few quarts low..

right now first is good, but holds forever..2nd slips under half throttle or more when shifting, but will hold when in 2nd..3rd and drive are fine..

the shifts are firm and i can go down the road fine under normal driving..

im hoping its just im low on fluid and the trans/computer and everything needs to readjust..justin tuned it for the shift kit so it should be good to go..

any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Missin the switches
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
there is 1 shim in the servo..couldnt get the snap ring in with 2..and for the drilling the seperator plate, may have fucked that up..not that im thinking of it your supposed to drill the actual metal plate..we thought it ment drilling the paper part..shit so ya we didnt drill anything..

driving it tonight heres what i got

it wont shift into 2nd until 2100 rpms and i have to let off the gas a little..

if i put the selector into 2nd while in drive, i get nothing..just revs..
 

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yeah it should take anywheres from 9 to sometimes 15 quarts mine only took 10 but i have a 9.5 converter def check the fluid as far as the shifting goes im not really good with AT but it sounds like it might be somthing with the valve body

if it were me id talk to FLT or PERFORMABUILT and see what they have to say:imo
 

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Missin the switches
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i have 11 in there right now and it seems to be at the right level..

im going to call trans go directly tomorrow to ask them..i know everything was put in right..you cant really mess it up lol..like i said its either the wrong spring that doesnt matcht the servo or the holes in the sep. plate..should be an easy fix hopefully
 

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I would pull it apart and drill out the right holes. Double check everything else while your in there. Did you use Billet servos? You must have to have needed to put shims in there. And don't those little springs go inside the valve body, in the internal passages?
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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If I thought about it, I could probably figure it out... but I do not feel like it. So this is what I will post instead.



 

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I would pull it apart and drill out the right holes. Double check everything else while your in there. Did you use Billet servos? You must have to have needed to put shims in there. And don't those little springs go inside the valve body, in the internal passages?
:read:
 

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Missin the switches
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im not sure..

well i talked to trans go and he said neither the spring nor the seperator plate is causing my issues.all thats going to change is the firmness, but barely noticable he said...i dont have 2nd at all, its shifting right into third..

he said to pull the servo on the side and make sure all the seals are good and that the band pressure is correct by spinning the driveshaft and making sure it locks up when the servo is pressed in..

either that or the 2nd shift valve is messed up with the ball and spring so im going to try the servo first and go from there..also make sure all bolts are tight on the valve body..
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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There are specific torque specs to the valve body. All bolts have to be in the specific spot.

Mind the lip seals on the servo assy, go in wrong and you lose a gear.

Take it all apart again and go over it. Do the 2-3 hole to .110 for a better shift, don't drill the 1-2, 3-4 do .125
 

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Missin the switches
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3,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There are specific torque specs to the valve body. All bolts have to be in the specific spot.

Mind the lip seals on the servo assy, go in wrong and you lose a gear.

Take it all apart again and go over it. Do the 2-3 hole to .110 for a better shift, don't drill the 1-2, 3-4 do .125
sounds good..hopefully tomorrow night i get a chance to get it in the shop..

i know there are a few check balls above the seperator plate..do you remember how many? i dont want to lose any when i pull the plate out..

he also mentioned the 1-2 accumulator could be a little lose causing a massive leak which would drop 2nd gear..hopefully i get it figured out since i shouldnt really drive it without 2nd correct?
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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sounds good..hopefully tomorrow night i get a chance to get it in the shop..

i know there are a few check balls above the seperator plate..do you remember how many? i dont want to lose any when i pull the plate out..

he also mentioned the 1-2 accumulator could be a little lose causing a massive leak which would drop 2nd gear..hopefully i get it figured out since i shouldnt really drive it without 2nd correct?


Do you have the ATSG book? If not find it for bolt locations and Tq specs. There are all sorts of diff sized ones. If you really fuck up, you will lock gear train. I do not have the book handy for the info, sorry.

Do not recall on the balls, last time I had it down was to replace the sep plate w/ a TransGo version which has been YEARS. I used some TransGel to hold the shit in place. Pet jelly works fine too. Just put a BIG bucket under the fucker when you drop it, a big plastic bin works nicely.

Yeah the 1-2 is where those washers go. Toss them away, this just dicks up the 1-2 shift being way too hard. Mind how they tell you to put the springs in, it is diff than OE setup. I recall the yellow going up into the case for the 3-4 and the two blues are for the servo assy (with the white) and the other in that accumulator.

Use the softer springs for that accumulator valve train shit in the case, this helps tone down the 1-2 shift. Remember trucks have a different line pressure table as they used the smaller servo, so when you increase the pressure more and more... it begins to bang and shift hard as fuck. Once I reflashed my PCM with an Fbody table for pressure, all was well again in the universe.

Grind the manual valve per the book and also when installing the VB hook that up to the linkage FIRST... THEN bolt the VB to the case.

Yes, just park the fuck for now.
 

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Missin the switches
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
idk why the fuck i didnt just do this 2 weeks ago..i was waitin to put it on the lift to fix some other things..but it only took me 15 min in the damn driveway..

took it apart tonight..somehow there wasnt even a teflon ring on the 2nd apply piston..fuckin idiot me lol..had way to many hours into it and musta just spaced it..

put a new ring on and all WAS well..went down the road shifted 1-2-3-4-..then i lost 4..then 3rd..then 2nd..then first haha..

fuckin snap ring didnt seat right apparently and the cover popped off..stranded me 2 blocks from my house and wouldnt u know there was a hill to go up..

just got it home and put it all back together..now i gotta get some fluid and try it again
 
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