[Silverado]

By taking the kit off...

LMAO..... OK, but isn't there cutting and welding involved with the install making it difficult to return to stock? I'm not really concerned with returning to stock but I just didn't think it was possible, we'll at least not easily!

 

[Silverado]

Oh I forgot one its a stupid question but oh well.

4) I would have no problem running 35's with 4.10's right?

 

[Nicholas]

4) you won't have any problems with 4.10s and 35s. Many people run 3.73s or even 3.42s w/ no problem, and 4.10s seems to be about perfect. it still won't stress your tranny too much, and will still accelerate pretty nice for a lifted truck.

 

[Rednecked_4x4]

you should be alright....your guna loose a little bottom end

 

[Dark Eternal]

All you have to do for the CST instal is shave a bit off the diff I think, if even that, so it should be easy to resturn to stock. But trust me, you will never want to. Adam covered everything else I think.

 

[zubyc]

with 35's id reccomend 4.56

 

[Slvrpismochevy96]

Why should he get 4.56 if he already has 4.10 and will work fine with 35's?

 

[00Silverado]

Why should he get 4.56 if he already has 4.10 and will work fine with 35's?

:word:
I think it'd just be a waste of money:imo

 

[BDZ71]

All you have to do for the CST instal is shave a bit off the diff I think, if even that, so it should be easy to resturn to stock. But trust me, you will never want to. Adam covered everything else I think.

You cut the Driverside Rear Diff. mount just like you do on the PC kit :read:
And that is all.. No shaving of the front diff that I know of.

I would guess a good welder could weld the part you cut off back on. But like others have said.. you will not want to turn it back to stock :head:

 

[01Z71GMC]

Ok I got a few questions about the the CST 6-8" lift, I'm 90% sure I already know the answers to most of them but I thought I'd ask anyway. :anitoof:

1) If I don't buy the multiple shock kit when I first install the kit I can always buy it and install it later, right?

2) Getting the 8" out of the lift is accomplished by using different T-bar keys and cranking the T-bars up in the front, and the back with blocks or AAl's?

3) In the link below on the CST web site it says that you can return the truck to stock, how is this possible?

Like BD, I just had this kit installed. (Or I am still having it installed depending on how you look at it. Its a long saga. No laughing BD :anitoof: )

1) Yes, BUT it might cost you more money if you are paying for the install :read: First off, just to be clear, there are two different multiple shock kits, one for the front and one for the rear. They don't have to be purchased at the same time. The front kit consists of a shock hoop and a replacement UCA. Note that the base kit uses the stock CAs If you go back and add it later, its probably going to cost you more in labor. The reason is the UCA. The hoop can just be added. But replacing the UCA takes a little more work and its rework since they had to come off to start with. Also keep in mind that you have to buy new shocks. The shock lengths are not the same. So you end up throwing out 2 shocks per kit. If the only reason you aren't going to do it now is $$$ then do the math. Get the labor price difference and the cost of the shocks you'll be tossing and compare that to the credit card interest you would pay on buying the kit and extra shocks now. I did this and it was cheaper to buy now. Depends on your CC rate and how long you think it will take to pay it off. BTW, the rear kit is less of a concern, there isn't really a labor loss, but you still can't reuse the shocks.

2) Yes as others have answered, BUT there is no adjustment in the rear. The block is around 5 to 5.5 inches high, BD do you remember the exact number? Anyway the idea is that stock the truck rides ass high by about and inch or two. So by lifting the rear less you end up with a level truck. However you are not going to have level truck if you crank it to 8 in the front. You'll be riding "cali style" with your ass dragging. And, as BD pointed out to me because I wasn't paying attention, the truck, or at least the 01s, have a stock block. Its short, about 2 inches. And it stays in with the lift. Two stacked blocks is bad enough. But going with a bigger block or an AAL is just extra damn scary to me. As soon as I get this thing leveled out in the front, I am measuring for custom springs. (Deavers)

Which brings up an interesting question. If you tell Deaver that you want a stock plus 6 or a stock plus 8 spring, do they add enough height to get rid of the stock blocks? or do you have to add an additional 2 inches to the measurement to drop those? Anybody know?

 

[Silverado]

You cut the Driverside Rear Diff. mount just like you do on the PC kit :read:
And that is all.. No shaving of the front diff that I know of.

I would guess a good welder could weld the part you cut off back on. But like others have said.. you will not want to turn it back to stock :head:

Is their any welding required with the install like the PC kit?

 

[BDZ71]

Is their any welding required with the install like the PC kit?

No. Well not that I know of anyway but Im about 99% sure no.

Here is a Install Guide you can read over if you would like
http://www.performancelifts.com/installation/cst/CSSC36.pdf

 

[Dark Eternal]

no you dont have to weld. You can even get around the welding in the PC kit but its a VERY easy weld.

 

[Silverado]

no you dont have to weld. You can even get around the welding in the PC kit but its a VERY easy weld.

Thats good news cuz if there is no welding than me and my dad can probly install the CST kit and save a few $. The only reason the welding is a concern for me is because I dont have 220 or a welder, yet! I would be paying for the entire install and all I would really need them to do is the minor welding.

 

[Nicholas]

Thats good news cuz if there is no welding than me and my dad can probly install the CST kit and save a few $. The only reason the welding is a concern for me is because I dont have 220 or a welder, yet! I would be paying for the entire install and all I would really need them to do is the minor welding.

If you did need someone to weld it, you could do the rear at your house, then find a friend with a welder that wouldn't mind you doin the front there...when it comes time to weld it, you would have no problems...also, i think there are some 110 volt welders out there, they aren't gonna produce the best weld, but would probably be good enough for your needs.