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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this is my first real lifted vehicle. I've ridden in many other lifted trucks varying from 3" to 10". I decided to get the FTS 7" for my Yukon Denali and so far have nothing positive to say about the whole build and lift kit. I'm so disappointed with it I am debating on removing the whole lift and going with a 4" CST and 33s.


Here's the build and reasons why I'm so unhappy about this lift kit and build. I was talked into going bigger than 4" by my close friends to get 7" and 35s cause the 4" and 33s wouldn't be big enough. I bought the FTS 7" kit with driveshaft for the AWD models. I picked up Moto Metal 970 20x10 -24mm after doing lots of research on here saying they wouldn't rub with the FTS kit. Well it does and I have to cut the front bumper or get new rims. Searched around for tires and was debating the Nitto Exo and Toyo R/T in 35x12.50R20. I wanted an all terrain similar to Terra G2s or A/T IIs but was talked into that those were not aggressive enough for the build so ended up with Toyo R/Ts.





I started by inventorying the kit when it arrived and was missing 6 bolts I needed, had 3 extras that didn't help, and the autoride extensions. The instructions suck and don't exist so we follow another rough guide then figure it out on your own. The front end looked pretty good once assembled with minimal track width increase but once done it appears to be just as wide as the others. The CV spacer is 1" even so I expect it sticks the wheel out that much. The CV angles are pretty flat compared to other kits but the upper control arm is way below stock position as they claim it returns it to factory location.


On to installing the rear and wow what crap! The rear is a pan hard bracket, weld on shock extensions, and 6.25" coil spacer. No link arm lengthen or axle angle adjustment! The rear literally is stretched so far against the axle hard stops you have to compress the $hit of the springs to even get them installed back on the truck. The driveline angle is just awful for a 7" lift kit. It was so awful I went and ordered a rear fabtech 6" kit to clean up the crap FTS kit. The fabtech comes with new upper and lower link arms to align the driveline and recenter the axle in-between the fender. The FTS rear is resting on the max travel stop when driving so any bump feels like it slams the rear stops. See the picture below of the stops and driveshaft angle.


I wanted to avoid the upper control arm issues with this kit but instead got the worse angle I can imagine. I drove over a little bump in the road and bang the front arm slams on the upper hard stop! $#@%!!! I can't believe these angles are so awful and nothing can be done to correct it. I know some will say get new upper arms but I have autoride and want to keep the level indicator. Below are pics of a fabtech 6" with perfect upper arms and a stock denali arm. Then my arm with the lift.
FTS 7" on the lift

Fabtech 6" on the ground

Stock Denali on the ground

FTS 7" on the ground


The truck wanders and feels squirmy with absolute no comfort of a Denali. The tire tread makes the whole truck vibrate when accelerating, not a balance issue cause they are smooth at 60mph. The tires weigh so much more and larger with the stock 3.42s it feels like a pig or towing a trailer around all day even with the 6.2. I haven't put the fabtech on yet cause I'm undecided what to do. I have over $6000 in this already and hate driving it right now! It feels like a big key and spacer lift maxed out to bump stops. I am so unhappy with the whole kit and debating taking it all off. Selling it all and putting it back to stock or get the 4" CST kit. Can anybody convince me that I should keep the lift and wheels/tires or sell it all and start over? What can fix the front upper arm angles? If I should keep it would you go ahead and install the fabtech rear kit?




 

· Jake
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2,387 Posts
I've had nothing but good results with my FTS 7", but I also have a completely different setup than you. Let us know if you figure anything out.
 

· boogity boogity
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How is this a FTS issue? I see you were missing some bolt but other than that what's the problem with the kit? The space between the uca and the droop stop isn't much less than stock , that shouldn't make your ride suffer that much. To me it's the tires your having the main problem with, maybe switch over to the at'2. You can't have a lifted truck with 35's and expect it to drive the exact same as a stock Denali.

IMO get some new 4.10 gears and change the tires. This will probably solve most of your issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How is this a FTS issue? I see you were missing some bolt but other than that what's the problem with the kit? The space between the uca and the droop stop isn't much less than stock , that shouldn't make your ride suffer that much. To me it's the tires your having the main problem with, maybe switch over to the at'2. You can't have a lifted truck with 35's and expect it to drive the exact same as a stock Denali.

IMO get some new 4.10 gears and change the tires. This will probably solve most of your issues.
Dude how is it not a bad lift design when the rear rides on the hard stop? There is absolutely no down travel for the rear! I can handle the missing bolts and did when I bought some new ones. I want the front angles back cause I hit any bump in the road and bang it slams the hard stops. I would expect the kit to give factory angles up front like they told me it would but obviously it didn't.

I'm no opposed to swapping tires to the A/T IIs and think that would clear up some tire issues but still not sure why all the swaying and squirm. If I keep it then I plan to do 4.10s.
 

· Registered
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I have a feeling the wandering is just the nature of the beast but everything else can be fixed with a little research. Unfortunately you went with someone else's advise on the tires and thats kinda your fault. You should know that a more aggressive tire is going to give a vibration of some sort and have different road manners than an all terrain. Gears and a tune are going to your best friend as far as feeling sluggish. If you regear the front and the rear and get a tune I'm SURE you will be more than pleased. I think popular choice would be either 410 or 456 with the 6speed trans. Im not exactly sure how FTS achieves their front lift but maybe a shorter strut up front may help. As far as the rear goes, it definitely sounds like a travel issue, like its maxed out as you stated. There are a lot of people on here that have much more knowledge about this than I do and hopefully they can chime in.
 

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ive had fts and cognito, and both were good kits, i had no problems with my fts although they could have built it a little better

the cognito i have now is so nice, everything is very beefy and well designed, i was actually a little afraid of breaking something with the fts lift and was always easy with my truck

also i was missing bolts and the directions suck with fts, but a quick trip to any hardware store and some common sense and the install was pretty easy
 

· Registered
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I have no issues with my fts but I have aftermarket ucas too. Now that you have 35s and heavy wheel and tire setup I bet you arent even considering 410s anymore.
 

· Registered
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Coulda told u about the rubbing issue, bolts missing can't vouche for that, the front end pic u posted is on jackstands maxed out. With flat cvs the uca angle can't be that bad. As far as the rear goes it seems it should have came with brackets for the rear trailing arms. As far as the ride goes u can't expect it to ride stock when adding hundreds more lbs of wheels and tires and keeping the shocks stock. Woulda been a better choice with ats rather than mts. The rubbing issue u have I coulda told u would happen with 35s on x10 -25 offset wheels
 

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Did your friend pick those ugly wheels as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The rubbing sucks but cut the front plastic and maybe trim the bumper some. Or sell the x10s and get x9s to clear that but I think it will look dumb with that much lift and wheels sit to narrow.

Yes one picture is of the truck on the lift but this picture below is on the ground after driving it around for 20 miles. I have about 1/4" of clearance between the arm and stop. The other picture I posted with the aluminum arm is set back to stock angle and that is a Fabtech kit. Can anybody post a picture of there stock arms running FTS kit?


As far as the rear goes it just plain sucks! I ordered the Fabtech rear to fix the trailing arm issue but will see how that install goes. I would think the factory air ride shocks would perform pretty well with the lift but maybe wrong also.

If you don't like the wheels thats fine but I'm saving up for some American Force and these will work for the time being.
 

· Premium Member
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I bet the FTS instructions tell u to cut that bump stop off
 

· New Member
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OP your post was really hard to read... so i'll just tl;dr, and advice:

1. Start with a denali in another color
2. buy a lift from some place better than FTS
3. buy polished wheels or black wheels, not polished black wheels, and preferrably not walmarto-metals
4. if those all terrains ride too rough, you should stick with a pure street tire. those toyo rt's are for guys who want an ''aggressive sidewall'' with a ''street tread''


ps, what did you think would happen to your driveshaft angles when you lifted the vehicle? they dont just magically remain the same as unlifted without other mods.
 

· HUNTING
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OP your post was really hard to read... so i'll just tl;dr, and advice:

1. Start with a denali in another color
2. buy a lift from some place better than FTS
3. buy polished wheels or black wheels, not polished black wheels, and preferrably not walmarto-metals
4. if those all terrains ride too rough, you should stick with a pure street tire. those toyo rt's are for guys who want an ''aggressive sidewall'' with a ''street tread''


ps, what did you think would happen to your driveshaft angles when you lifted the vehicle? they dont just magically remain the same as unlifted without other mods.

take your common sense and show yourself out of this thread sir.
 
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