You can get away with it on the return line but you'll need to use a compression union on the supply making sure the filter is clamped tight so there's no movement.
Fuel line broke right at fuel filter
This is an '02 Sierra 1500 5.3 4wd.
3/8" OD fuel line broke right at the fitting that threads into the filter on the engine side of fuel filter.
I would really hate to order a new fuel line for this old rust bucket (as much as I love her), & I was thinking I could take a couple of real short runs of EFI fuel line with the appropriate fuel line clamps & basically splice in an aftermarket universal filter.
I saw this Dorman 55242 on Rock
would that be okay on a fuel injected engine?
What I also noted on Rock were the fuel filters for flex fuel engines are threaded only on the gas tank side (which is still intact on mine) and just have a 3/8" OD section of line with QD on the engine side of the filter. Would I be better off taking the plastic QD off of the flex fuel filter & cllamping, with fuel line clamps a piece of EFI fuel hose to connect it to my fuel line on the engine side of the filter?
Thanks for your input.
3/8" OD fuel line broke right at the fitting that threads into the filter on the engine side of fuel filter.
I would really hate to order a new fuel line for this old rust bucket (as much as I love her), & I was thinking I could take a couple of real short runs of EFI fuel line with the appropriate fuel line clamps & basically splice in an aftermarket universal filter.
I saw this Dorman 55242 on Rock
would that be okay on a fuel injected engine?
What I also noted on Rock were the fuel filters for flex fuel engines are threaded only on the gas tank side (which is still intact on mine) and just have a 3/8" OD section of line with QD on the engine side of the filter. Would I be better off taking the plastic QD off of the flex fuel filter & cllamping, with fuel line clamps a piece of EFI fuel hose to connect it to my fuel line on the engine side of the filter?
Thanks for your input.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
That Dorman fuel filter with EFI fuel line & fuel line clamps wouldn't be an acceptable fix?You can get away with it on the return line but you'll need to use a compression union on the supply making sure the filter is clamped tight so there's no movement.
I would suggest a fix like this one:
www.dormanproducts.com
I think they have a shorter one, for slightly less money.
You might need a separate compression fitting to mate it to the existing fuel line.
Dorman Products - 800-153
STEEL FUEL LINE REPAIR KIT. 3/8 IN. x 18 IN. w/16mm FITTING.
www.dormanproducts.com
I think they have a shorter one, for slightly less money.
You might need a separate compression fitting to mate it to the existing fuel line.
This one maybe?I would suggest a fix like this one:
Dorman Products - 800-153
STEEL FUEL LINE REPAIR KIT. 3/8 IN. x 18 IN. w/16mm FITTING.
I think they have a shorter one, for slightly less money.
You might need a separate compression fitting to mate it to the existing fuel line.
12" long & only one fitting. I was thinking that it was intended to be spliced to the existing line with fuel injection fuel line & fuel line clamps?
I used two of them, along w a fuel filter and bracket from an earlier GMT800, to install an inline fuel filter on my '04 after getting some crappy fuel in it with a bunch of debris that passed through the sock they call a filter in the fuel pump and plugged the injectors. I used compression fittings to attach it to the existing lines, and they haven't leaked in the 7+ years since I did it.
...that said, for my '12 3500, I replaced the short flexible sections of the fuel line for my '12 3500 (same fuel system/pressure) with fuel pressure line and fuel injector clamps, and it also has been fine for the couple months since I did it.
What you have described above was the way I had been thinking would be the quickest & the easiest....that said, for my '12 3500, I replaced the short flexible sections of the fuel line for my '12 3500 (same fuel system/pressure) with fuel pressure line and fuel injector clamps, and it also has been fine for the couple months since I did it.
However, I have never worked with installing new compression fittings on rigid line before. What would I need to do? Just do a google search to buy a male & a female 3/8" OD compression fittings?
I took the fuel line into HD to make sure I got the right size for the line. And the lines on my truck were nice and not rusted, so I could just cut them off using a small pipe cutter, bend (as the lines run along the frame, and they need to come out a bit to go into the fuel filter) and assemble.
If your lines are rusty, IDK how well either the compression fitting or hose will work (hose is probably more likely to work ok in this case).
Actually, the line that broke (engine side of filter) was only badly rust right close to the fitting tor the fuel filter. I used a hacksaw blade to remove about 2" of rusty section & now I have pretty clean line where I need to connect to. But I am still leaning towards fuel injection line & I could double clamp it with fuel line clamps on both ends of the splice.If your lines are rusty, IDK how well either the compression fitting or hose will work (hose is probably more likely to work ok in this case).
This morning I did go ahead & order that Dorman 55180 along with some other stuff and with that Dorman line I could set it up so that the splice with fuel injection line could be extremely short.
Thanks for the info & I guess I'll pick up a small pipe cutter as well so that I can make the end the lines where I am splicing real clean.
The fix I did w hose (replacing the flexible hose section of the fuel lines) is slightly different than your situation, in that the lines had a retention/sealing crimp on the ends for the hose to push over, and weren't just straight tubes like you have.
But it'll probably work fine. Do it, and then check that it's not leaking regularly over the following week or two, and if it's leaking, put on an extra clamp or switch to compression fittings (if you cut the ends close enough for it to still work).
But it'll probably work fine. Do it, and then check that it's not leaking regularly over the following week or two, and if it's leaking, put on an extra clamp or switch to compression fittings (if you cut the ends close enough for it to still work).
Gotcha. I'll make the splice as short as possible & push as much flexible fuel line over as much of the rigid 3/8" line as possible.The fix I did w hose (replacing the flexible hose section of the fuel lines) is slightly different than your situation, in that the lines had a retention/sealing crimp on the ends for the hose to push over, and weren't just straight tubes like you have.
Just a quick follow up:
the Dorman 55180 is also known as the Dorman 800-153 that Davester suggested. It's not a bad little kit for $10.39 (from rockauto.com) it is 18" long & comes with two compression fittings & a union that could be used to join two female fittings.
But I've got other problems. . . .
the Dorman 55180 is also known as the Dorman 800-153 that Davester suggested. It's not a bad little kit for $10.39 (from rockauto.com) it is 18" long & comes with two compression fittings & a union that could be used to join two female fittings.
But I've got other problems. . . .
More rust I’d assume.Just a quick follow up:
the Dorman 55180 is also known as the Dorman 800-153 that Davester suggested. It's not a bad little kit for $10.39 (from rockauto.com) it is 18" long & comes with two compression fittings & a union that could be used to join two female fittings.
But I've got other problems. . . .
Yes.More rust I’d assume.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
GMC Truck Forum
A forum community dedicated to GMC and Chevy full size owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Silverados, Sierras, and other full size trucks performance, modifications, suspension, lift kits, tires, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
