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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Do the seal and post action shots. I need to do mine in a little while and need some reading material :)
Its not profusely leaking. Its damp around the bottom of the transmission bell housing. I will be doing it when the 60e explodes. I have 197,500 on a 4L60E that was over a quart low when I bought it 18,000 miles ago. I will say that it did spin all four pull my parts truck out of the woods which is nice.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)




P0446

I cant figure out what the deal is. 3 years ago I fixed this same problem on my dads truck by replacing the vent solenoid.

I replaced the tank pressure sensor in the truck in June or July because it was faulty.

I tried to clean the lines out with compressed air and disassembled the vent to see if I could get it work. Nothing.
I replaced the solenoid with one off of my parts truck but it caused the truck to be unable to vent causing the tank to build pressure and set off the tank pressure sensor.
I caved and bought a $25 single inlet one from Autozone and split them apart using the brand new solenoid and the older tank so it was a inlet/outlet unit.
Gas cap also doesn't feel right because of the extra pressure when I put in another solenoid.

Is there a difference between the PV485 or PV430
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·






Update. Truck is at 199,356 miles.
Has a new AVS bug guard and scratch and dented weather guard toolbox. I was sick of the rot in the lip of the hood and having all my tools not on the back seat is a nice touch. I also ordered a Lines to Go kit for my truck. All pre-bent stainless line with new fittings $175 shipped. It is way more than the EBAY kits but I figured why the heck not since I spent almost that and didn't get new ABS unit fittings.

I ended up having to put brake lines in my dads truck and have to have a shop put in a new master. I just ran flat out of time. I bled them 100 times and even with the Maxicheck Pro automatic ABS Bleed they're still shitty. The master just seems sad.

The 2500hd had rodknock and put junkyard LQ4 in it. It has a weird body grounding issue causing issue with the starter but it not a big fix.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Another update.

Has not stopped raining a lot in the past couple of weeks. I wanted to get ahead of the game and just replace my brake lines before they blew on their own as I have been consistently towing on a weekly basis.
I ordered a Lines to Go kit after battling my fathers having to flare my own and reuse the ABS fittings.
$175.00 shipped to my door in 2 days.
Really not a bad kit to install. Problems are the break/union in the rear line is in a bad spot, I ended up having to tighten it in the gap between the bed and the cab and then installing it to the ABS Block and Rear line. Another slight complaint is that for CNC Tube bent stuff at almost double the price its not terribly well put together length wise. Everything seemed almost 1-2 inches too long. I guess id rather be too long than short but it was annoying wrestling some of the lines.

Because I'm in the process of replacing the Master Cylinder lines too I just pinched those off, unbolted and cut all the old line out which helped a lot. I had to de-fluid film everything because it was disgusting. Install has been smooth. Will be installing the master lines tonight and bleeding.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Brake lines are done.

Problem is somewhere in my ABS block. It needs to have power to cycle the pump internally. I left the fuse in thinking that I could get away with ABS and it turns out that I cannot. I pulled the fuse, re-bled the system and everything is happy. Brakes are better than ever.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Oil Change done @ 200,400.

Took my mudflaps off and washed it.

I ordered door seals off rock auto in hopes that it would quiet down the window noise. $50 for both doors.

Lastly I got a charging system failure and my alternator took a dump. Duralast with a lifetime warranty $150
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I wanted to update this.

If you own an ext-cab truck and have not replaced the door seals yet I highly recommend that you do so. IT IS AMAZINGLY quiet now on the highway with the windows up.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Trucks rear brakes start to grab weird in parking lots or parallel parking situations. Noticed the bottom of the drum was wet on the passenger side.

I managed to change the axle seal and it really wasnt that terrible, BUT I though I could get away without having to change out the shoes because they had some life left but its still squeaking..................................................... So I will be installing new shoes and hardware. I brake cleaned the heck out of the shoes and they're probably just soaked in diff fluid.

 
Discussion starter · #32 ·


Whatever engineer designed this drum ebrake setup, your moms a hoe. Brutal. The trick is before removing the ebrake spring, put a small vise grip on the ebrake cable so the cable can't get anyshorter than normal. I also managed to trim the spring just a hair to make the driveway install easier.

One casualty was the boot on the drivers wheel cylinder was pinched and I managed to destroy all of my knuckles. I guess if the wheel cylinder dies, it dies. Just going to send it. Truck has 202,000 miles and I'll fix it when the time comes, but I cant imagine it will die before the trucks cab rots away.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·


Alright, well the little gasket was keep me up thinking about how I should have just sacked up and replaced it while I was in there. The anxiety of knowing something is kind of cobbled together has always been my down fall of doing it right once. So off the brake drum came and $30 whole US dollars later I had a new wheel cylinder to rob for the gaskets.....

After finding out I had actually smoked the old gasket made me feel a lot better about replacing it. All is well.

I adjusted them to just barely rub the drum and they stunk bad but they're good now. Pedal is 10 fold better.
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)




Fun fact this is my best friend. He was so against an SUV or a Truck for a daily driver as he wanted something fun to drive everyday. Convinced him to give this super low mileage 03 denali (120,000 miles vs 202,000 miles) a shot and he absolutely loves it. We're going to be doing a tru-cool 40k this week to keep his trans temps down from 200 to something more reasonable.

The factory nav in these trucks are laughable 16 years later.

I caved and got good sylvania LED DRL and Interior Dome lights. Real sick of cheap LED's.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·


Daytime Running Lights Staying On


Hey everyone. 2006 Silverado, the DRL's are just randomly coming on and staying on. If I wiggle the low beam or the DRL relays they shut off. Sometimes the relay just comes on after sitting like it did last night, sometimes they stay on with the low beams and when I shut the truck off in park they stay on.

I am using 4114 Sylvania LED DRL's.
I am using the lowbeam on signal from the relay to power my wired in fog light relay (Never has given me a problem until this weekend.
I just tuned the truck using HPTuners for a lower fan control setting and evap codes.
I've replaced the low beam relay and DRL relay with OEM replacements off a parts fuse block.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Alright.

Replaced my fuse block as I singled it out to be the problem with the truck an the DRL's staying on. Something inside of the fuse block was my problem. I replaced the fuse block with a known good fuse block and now my battery light is staying on and I cannot figure it out.

What would cause the battery light to stay on, system is charging and the alternator is new. It only happened when I swapped the fuse block out.
 
Alright.

Replaced my fuse block as I singled it out to be the problem with the truck an the DRL's staying on. Something inside of the fuse block was my problem. I replaced the fuse block with a known good fuse block and now my battery light is staying on and I cannot figure it out.

What would cause the battery light to stay on, system is charging and the alternator is new. It only happened when I swapped the fuse block out.
That happened to my 06 after changing the fuse block. Everything worked perfect but keep throwing a system not charging code. It obviously was charging.

I’m pretty sure it’s related to the ground sensor on 05+ model. Because I’m like 99% sure I put a 03 fuse block back in it. Sold it before I ever tried a newer fuse box. Honestly would have just tapped over the light if I still had it.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
That happened to my 06 after changing the fuse block. Everything worked perfect but keep throwing a system not charging code. It obviously was charging.

I’m pretty sure it’s related to the ground sensor on 05+ model. Because I’m like 99% sure I put a 03 fuse block back in it. Sold it before I ever tried a newer fuse box. Honestly would have just tapped over the light if I still had it.
I called a local wrecking yard.

03-05ish had one part number and 05ish+ had another. I just sacked up and paid for a used 06 PN fuse block, same as the one in the truck. I normally would leave it as it, but I just wanted to have the right one. Sucks I even had to replace the fuse block haha. $100 to make sure my truck wasn't going to burn to the ground + a 6 month warranty.
 
I wanted to update this.

If you own an ext-cab truck and have not replaced the door seals yet I highly recommend that you do so. IT IS AMAZINGLY quiet now on the highway with the windows up.
Which brand did you order? I see a set on rockauto from Fairchild for $40, but was skeptical.
 
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