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Here are some shots I just took. I got my shock mounts and spring perches off. Shock mounts came off easy, those damn perches wouldnt come off to save my life. Combo of grinding and a hammer got them. As you can see, my first time grinding on an axle tube, not too pretty. No cut deeper then 1\8" - 1\4". I stood on the tube and jumped while it was on stands (240lbs), held just fine :D. Peace of mind I guess.

Pics:





Here's a pic of my stuck D60 spindle, any ideas?


Later,
Steve
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Those arnt to bad. Mine looks worse because my axle was already coroded alot and isnt smooth. I painted it yesterday though and it looks 100x better. Ill put the pics up in an hour or so.
 

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Get those pics up man! Curious as to how it came out! Did you brush it on I take it? I plan on painting mine after I get it cleaned up some more and get the new mounts welded on.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Here it is with 2 coats of POR15 on it, no top coat yet. Looks really really good in person.

 

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It does llook very nice, with another coat or so it'll look even better, can't wait to see both of the finished products... :rocking:
 

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Looks good man. I am going to get my new stuff welded on before I paint tho. I gotta measure and get them on soon tho. I am going to guess on the pinion angle tho, I think I should only have to rotate it a tad for a 12" suspension lift.

Steve
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Im doing one coat then welding on so under the perches anbd crap is done and it wont rust. They ill just go over that small area again when I do my frame after I get the axles on.
 

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A quick and easy method I found of removing the big cast perches is to use a cut-off wheel in my 7" grinder. It cuts through like butta! Takes about 10 minutes to do each one and doesn't cut into the axle housing. I've used a 4.5" grinder and cut-off wheel before as well and it takes about 20 minutes per perch but still way easier than trying to grind through the welds.

As for the spindle, just take a brass or plastic hammer and tap the spindle side to side and it will loosen up and come off. That or you can pound the studs back and out of the knuckle and then just knock the spindle off.
 

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grinders

what kinda grinders are you using? i've been through 4 craftsman "professional" 4.5" 7.5 amp grinders. they suck. got a hitachi 4.5" 9 amp and it's been flawless.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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I have the craftsman 7" 13 amp and its tough as nails. I use the piss outa it and it keeps going. I used it more today cleaning up my d60. I should get it pretty much cleaned off and maybe even painted tomarow. Today was slow because im still spitting blood from having my wisdom teeth pulled yesterday.
 

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Woooo I had that done about 4 months or so ago... One was impacted and they had to drill some of my jaw bone out to pull the tooth out from the bottom. I was living on vicodin for a while there... :anitoof:

Anyway, about painting, a good thing is to paint the inside of the diff housing with Red Oxide primer. This will promote good oil flow and it will prevent any loose casting chips from coming loose and getting into your bearings.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Yeah I had 1 impacted. It sucked. They didnt put me to sleep and the gas doesnt do jack shit to me. So it was all based on how much novicane he gave me. The sound of cracking bone is really kinda creepy when you know its yours! Worst part is they didnt prescribe me any pain shit! All I get is advil!

BTW is it bad when you dont have a lower kingpin bearing seal :anitoof: Looks like ill be rebuild the kingpins. Recomend any good kits? Where to get a 7/8" allen key?
 

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ORD has a nice kit for each side that will rebuild the upper and lower kingpins, think it's like 24 bucks per side or something... Just call Stephen and order them up.

I bought the allen key at a bolt store here local. It was the L shaped key. I cut the short leg off of it and then was able to just put it into a 7/8" 6 point socket.

Remember, your going to need to torque those suckers to 500 ft/lbs so your going to need to go rent a 3/4" drive torque wrench to do that. I had to use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with about 5 feet of 1.25" .120" wall DOM on it to break them loose.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Big D has an impact that will put out like 700 ft/lbs so I thinK I will use that. As far breaking em loose I just use a big ass cheater bar probably like you described. Im having a hell of a time finding the 7/8" allen key though!!
 

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I might have an allen key like that, might be the one i used on my brakes...its a big one, i thnk :anitoof:


We have a makita grinder at my house thats older than me. Along with a craftsman drill thats older than me (its made out of stainless steel!!! ) Both work perfectly. Old tools rule!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am going to tear into my king pins today. I hope I dont have to replace the Kingpins themselves, that will suck. I will really not have fun getting those out.

Steve
 

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You have got to be kigging me! you are not even close to having the axle tube smooth, and on another one you dug in to the tube. What a Hack-job!
 

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i bought the 7/8" allen from orchard. put about 6 feet of leverage on it, and a friend and it was off. did the same to put it back on, it was a PITA, but i think installing the lower berring race was also difficult to get in straight, along with removing it until i found that a tierod spreader is the same size as the race and can be useed to just hammer it out.
 

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Angry Samoan said:
You have got to be kigging me! you are not even close to having the axle tube smooth, and on another one you dug in to the tube. What a Hack-job!
no kigging here. i think he's serious...
 
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