GMC Truck Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was going to post this in exterior but this forum gets way more traffic, so here goes.

I took of my flares cleaned em up and repainted them, Yes i know its strange seeing as how i really dont care about the appearance of the truck (to an extent :crazy: ) but im giving them to my sister. Well, My plan was to get cut outs, but I started thinking and In time i want Take off my bed and make it a flat bed. So i figure why waste 300 bones on one set of rear cutouts and make the bed even harder to sell in the future. So, Im going to get cutouts on the front and try to get the ball rolling on doing a flat bed. Here comes the problem, I have no idea what kind of metal to use. I would assume Steel but what thickness? Problem two is, Im putting on my body lift (finally after having it for two months!) what is the best method for rasing the flat bed the additional three inches? use the lift pucks? Make steel pucks that drop down in the same place?? What? I also want this to be very versatile, Im plannong on incorporating a Rollbar/cage on the back, I want quick disconnects run in it so i can throw some light on the bed whenever i need to, Im going to have a plug in elec system (I cant remember voltage but house plugs heh) and holes in the sides similar to flat bed big rigs where you can hook a tow strap hook or bungees. Please help me with pics/ideas anything you can, I dont want to invest time in this and half ass it. Also should i weld it to the frame? bolt on (probably best option)?

This project seems awesome and im really interested in doing it, any welders/fabing placess in DFW that anyone knows of that do good work please pass on that info as well. After i get these optimas from bogey I should have the dinero to get a 14 bolt and start this, so no rush on info just pass on whatcha know!
 

·
Bigger than you!
Joined
·
196 Posts
If i were you i would probably use 1/8" diamondplate,it is strong and easy to work with without adding to damn much weight to the truck.

I would also have some steel pucks (made from square tubing) welded to the bottom of the bed instead of using the ones from the kit so that it is easier to take off and on if you need to. If you use square or rectangular tubing (probably .120" wall thickness) for the frame of the bed it will probably come in 8' or 12' sticks so you could probably make your pucks out of the leftover pieces.
 

·
Line-X of San Antonio
Joined
·
5,237 Posts
bob knows his shit. he made the strongest body lift relocated ranch hand ive seen so far. i personally would use 1/8 as well, and some good 3" pipe.
 

·
Drive It Like Ya Stole It
Joined
·
6,656 Posts
This is going to be a big project. First dont weld it to the frame, welding directly on teh frame will weaken it and stiffen it so much from the bed you might crack shit. Second you will need an inverter for 110 volt plugs. Im assuming you knew that though. I can help you out with the design and fabbing once I get back to DFW if your interested. Also I can help you out rebuilding/gearing that 14 bolt. I know you want to go with 5.13s and a detroit right? Would you want to convert it to 6 lug or stay 8?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
this is going to be a big project but im up for it. Yea i figured welding wasnt the best idea, so bolt on it will be. Yes im going to get the inverter, with the two optimas im getting from bogey and eventually a bigger alternator i should be set power wise to run lights stereo compressor everytyhing. I will def be going with 5.13s and a detroit and i will convert to 6 lugs. i plan on running 37 inch boggers at first, then when they wear out maybe going to 38s, ppl will say 5.13s are steep but, I want the extra "power".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,159 Posts
personally i think part of the flat bed appeal if more rear clearance, but why worry about the body lift? you can design it so as the center is the height of the original bed floor, and just the sides are higher up to allow wheel travel. this gives you a lower CoG (not much but some), allows your cargo to be held lower and/or haul more. basically have the "bed floor" between the outer edges of the frame be the same height that it was with the original bed, maybe have the front portion step up to meet the cab, and then have the sides higher to accomodate the tire movement.
 

·
GMFS slowest truck :read:
Joined
·
5,501 Posts
NorcalZ71 said:
personally i think part of the flat bed appeal if more rear clearance, but why worry about the body lift? you can design it so as the center is the height of the original bed floor, and just the sides are higher up to allow wheel travel. this gives you a lower CoG (not much but some), allows your cargo to be held lower and/or haul more. basically have the "bed floor" between the outer edges of the frame be the same height that it was with the original bed, maybe have the front portion step up to meet the cab, and then have the sides higher to accomodate the tire movement.
that is true...w/ the cab being raised, you can't see any of the pucks from the side like u can w/ the bed. you could make the bed at the regular height, make it easier to load, unload, all that sorta stuff, CoG lower too...and just make a lil lip or whatever rt behind the cab so you can't see the pucks for the BL and you won't be able to tell too easily...i don't know why you would go throught the extra work to make 3" steel pucks that have to be amost exact so its level...just make it regular height and add a lil steel gap guard behind the cab...wouldn't look out of place w/ a steel flat bed.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top