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help me.... please.

1K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  ChrisNJ 
#1 ·
alright.. we all know black paint sucks.
i have webbing/swirling all over. i want it gone.
what stages of poor boys do i need?
whats a good wax... do u recomend a prewax?

i want the swirls GONE! and all i hear is poor boys and a porter. where can i get some good pads? already own a buffer.
 
#3 ·
First you really need to strip everything off the paint. A good one time wash with dawn if you don't want to buy another shampoo, etc. Then you'll need to clay bar. This is an important step. Then start with your polishes. Depending on how bad your swirls do like you said, ssr2.5 with orange pad, ssr1 with white pad and then apply you poorboys paste wax.
 
#7 ·
Clay bar is a must. As far as polishing goes, I'd try the PB SSR1 on the white pad first. Make a couple of attempts before stepping up to the orange pad and SSR2. You may find that you never need to go to the SSR2 after a couple of passes with the SSR1.

As for finishing, my personal favorite is to use the EXP, or a pure sealant first. Once the sealant is set, top of with a good quality wax, like Natty's or the Milgly stuff Donnie sells. The idea there being that you get the longer lasting protection of the sealant and hard reflection, but get the warmth and depth from the carnuba wax.

One thing to make sure of, if you've used a sealant, do not go over it with a 'cleaner-wax' you'll just end up removing the sealant.

My .02
 
#9 ·
This is the package that you keep hearing about http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poudmpawfrit.html

It includes everything you'll need. The ssr2.5 pairs w/ the orange pad and used at speed 5+, the ssr1 goes w/ the white pad at speed 4. Select Nattys Blue for the paste wax. That is applied by hand.

Now, if you need a new clay bar, heres a package for that setup.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/20clbarlupa.html
Its a large, 200 gram bar, so it'll last you more than once. That kit has a storage box for the clay as well.
 
#10 ·
Clay bar is a must. As far as polishing goes, I'd try the PB SSR1 on the white pad first. Make a couple of attempts before stepping up to the orange pad and SSR2. You may find that you never need to go to the SSR2 after a couple of passes with the SSR1.

As for finishing, my personal favorite is to use the EXP, or a pure sealant first. Once the sealant is set, top of with a good quality wax, like Natty's or the Milgly stuff Donnie sells. The idea there being that you get the longer lasting protection of the sealant and hard reflection, but get the warmth and depth from the carnuba wax.

One thing to make sure of, if you've used a sealant, do not go over it with a 'cleaner-wax' you'll just end up removing the sealant.

My .02
:tongue: Seriously, thanks for the recommendation though.

I usually apply Primo over Opti-Seal with great results.
 
#13 ·
Clay bar is a must. As far as polishing goes, I'd try the PB SSR1 on the white pad first. Make a couple of attempts before stepping up to the orange pad and SSR2. You may find that you never need to go to the SSR2 after a couple of passes with the SSR1.

As for finishing, my personal favorite is to use the EXP, or a pure sealant first. Once the sealant is set, top of with a good quality wax, like Natty's or the Milgly stuff Donnie sells. The idea there being that you get the longer lasting protection of the sealant and hard reflection, but get the warmth and depth from the carnuba wax.

One thing to make sure of, if you've used a sealant, do not go over it with a 'cleaner-wax' you'll just end up removing the sealant.

My .02
Whats up bro! Havent seen you on here in a while.
 
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