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I run a Rockford 201S and a Rockford 801S. But I run a 1 farad cap too though. That helps out and my lights doesn't dim at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
03Carbondogg said:
I run a Rockford 201S and a Rockford 801S. But I run a 1 farad cap too though. That helps out and my lights doesn't dim at all.
so is that around 1000 watts? rms?
 

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Well the 801S says 2400 watts but there is no way it's putting out that much! I think it's putting out about 900 to 1000 watts. And the 201S is putting out about 200 or 300. I'm not sure though. I'm not that great about this stuff!
 

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samcarol
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hmm... according to my birth sheets, a lil under 2800 RMS on my subs along. I used to have dimming problems at night, put in my xenon lights, got a yellow top, and now it only dims a bit when i'm idleing.
 

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Yeah a yellow top will help a lot! They're only about $80 to $100 too.
 

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my RF 801s 2400watt and JL 300 amp turns my car into a light show when I crank it up :nono:

I am going to get a yellow top when I go in for dynamat and possible (free) upgrade to 12" subs/box :D
 

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Wanna B Jack o all Trades
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im running 2 600 watt RMS MTX amps, a 2x75 MTX, a 4x50 MTX, a 1 farad, and 2 batteries off my stock 140 amp. I hope to see what its doing soon

the birth sheets on the 801s usually say around 920-980 watts
2400 is a WLS rating




























WLS = when lightning strikes :anitoof:
 

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03Carbondogg said:
Yeah a yellow top will help a lot! They're only about $80 to $100 too.
so a yellow top makes a difference? my lights dim noticeable at idle, i was going to throw in a 850cca yellow top and keep the stock alternator when i added my alpine 5 channel. do you think the extra amperage from optima alone will keep my lights from dimming? the stock battery is only 600cca, weak. i had a 1200cca bulldozer battery in my tundra, i could turn on 4 hellas, headlights, foglights and run my alpine headunit and amp with the engine off... when i turned the key the lights barely dimmed from the starter draw. that battery kicked ass :)
 

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Yeah it should help out a lot. If not you can also get your alternator rebuilt too. You can usually get that done for about $20 to $40 around here.
 

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Memphis ST500D and whatever my headunit draws and my lights dim and my voltage gauge drops to 0 when I'm idling... :anitoof:
 

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If you dont want light dimming get a yellow top but also...buy effecient amps. An amp with good effeciency and I forget what its called...when they put out set amount of watts at a specific voltage. I cant remember but here is an example and maybe someone can spit out the term

My xtant 1001d, puts out 1000 watts....at like 11.4 volts....14 volts....17 volts. My RF BD 1000 puts out more watts the higher the voltage goes...therefor draws more power and causes the lights to dim alot more than my xtants ever did.
 

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03Carbondogg said:
Yeah it should help out a lot. If not you can also get your alternator rebuilt too. You can usually get that done for about $20 to $40 around here.
cool, i'll get the yellow top and look into having the alternator rewound.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Eisenfaust said:
If you dont want light dimming get a yellow top but also...buy effecient amps. An amp with good effeciency and I forget what its called...when they put out set amount of watts at a specific voltage. I cant remember but here is an example and maybe someone can spit out the term

My xtant 1001d, puts out 1000 watts....at like 11.4 volts....14 volts....17 volts. My RF BD 1000 puts out more watts the higher the voltage goes...therefor draws more power and causes the lights to dim alot more than my xtants ever did.
term = regulated power source

i guess i need to bite the bullet and get a bigger alt :flame:
 

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tuckin22 said:
term = regulated power source

i guess i need to bite the bullet and get a bigger alt :flame:
Try upgrading yours first. You won't be out but like $20 and if that don't work buy a bigger one.
 
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